TWO TIP-UP SNARES

Snare traps are, reportedly, being set in Anaheim, California, United States of the Americas, neighbourhoods; in order to catch coyotes that are no longer welcome to live in their OWN, NATIVE, environment.

When triggered, these Baited Snares (Garrets)—composed of steel, cable or wire—jerk, tightly, around the victims—like all true Garrets, easily slicing through flesh— neck, face, body, or limb.

Deadfalls, snares, and ALL other traps, ARE NOT toys.

They are NOT to be used for Week-end Survival Games;

or, by some, brainless, Criminal, JACKASS; that, just happens, to be in an EVIL, macho, killing, mood.

They ARE deadly.

The animal, pictured, might just as easily be a much loved family pet;

or, worse, A CHILD.

ALTHOUGH I HAVE HEARD OF EVEN EXPERIENCED TRAPPERS SHOOTING OR EVEN EMPLOYING A DEADFALL TO KILL A SKUNK; I CAN NOT UNDERSTAND THEIR THINKING; WHY THEY WOULD EVEN CONSIDER  DOING SO.

IT IS VIRTUALLY ONLY BY USING A POP-UP OR TIP-UP SNARE THAT YOU CAN CATCH, AND/OR KILL, A SKUNK OR ANY MEMBER OF THE MUSTELIDAE FAMILY WITHOUT HAVING THEM SPRAY AND THUS CONTAMINATE THE ENTIRE AREA.

It must be noted these “bush craft survival tools” are not toys for macho types; or for kids; who never grew up. All are very, very, dangerous-can be dangerous to human life or detrimental to survival. All are illegal to use in Canada and or other CIVILIZED counties, except in extreme emergency. All must be clearly marked during the period of use; and must be dismantled immediately after the emergency situation is over. IF YOU ARE USING ANY OF THESE TOOLS TO TRAP OR KILL GAME, UNDER THE GUISE OF PRACTISING BUSHCRAFT, YOU COULD, AND SHOULD BE, CHARGED WITH ANIMAL ABUSE, DANGEROUS ACTIVITY-POTENTIALLY CAUSING HUMAN HARM, AND SEVERAL OTHER THINGS UNDER THE FISH AND WILDLIFE ACT.

The trigger, as shown in the above illustration, might work great, if  precision crafted; out of metal; but even that is doubtful as it would probably bind , unless it is also well lubricated and free of rust or other corrosion. If made out of wood,(keep it simple)the necessary tip-up/spring pull is going to create enough friction, and the trigger cord allow enough slack movement that this thing will not release. Either that or the pressure will be enough that those; so carefully fitted, little notches, will break off and it will release prematurely. 

NOTE: WITH ALL TRIGGERED SNARES AND TRAPS, 

YOU MUST MAKE SURE THAT:

 YOUR TRIGGER SUPPORT PEGS ARE:

 LONG ENOUGH,

  DRIVEN IN THE GROUND FAR ENOUGH,

 AND ARE STRONG ENOUGH,

 TO WITHSTAND

THE CONSTANT PULL

EXERTED BY THE SPRING, TIP-UP

 OR WEIGHTED POLE 

ACTIVATING/TRIGGERING MECHANISM.

ALSO BE SURE THAT YOU ARE USING

 SOME KIND OF RELIABLE SAFETY SUPPORT, OR LINE,

WHEN SETTING THE TRAP;

OTHERWISE--YOU MIGHT NOT APPRECIATE,

 WHAT YOU CATCH

THAT IS--IF YOU LIVE.

THE TIP-UP COULD  GIVE ENOUGH

POWER SO THAT THE NOOSE ACTS 

AS A WIRE GARRET(VIRTUALLY WIRE SAW)

DECAPITATING THE INTENDED PREY--

OR AMPUTATING FINGERS, OR A HAND OF ANYONE;

 SETTING THE TRAP CARELESSLY.

If using a green sapling (definitely NOT recommended), lop the sapling of its branches and top. Bend the sapling over, and make a mark on the ground directly under the head of the bent sapling. 

This is the place where you will set the triggering for the snare. Cut two notched stakes. These should be sharpened at the point, and bevelled at the head so they will drive easily into the ground. 

They must be straight and strong, and preferably cut from dead (seasoned) wood.The moisture, or sap, content of green, freshly cut wood  tends to cause the trigger pieces to bind, or even GLUE together.

NOTE: See my post about the simple snare.

  Contrary to what is suggested by the above illustration, whenever and wherever possible, tip-ups should be fashioned from dry seasoned poles, and ALL BRANCHES should be REMOVED to prevent catching on surrounding vegetation. A live sapling will soon tend to hold the bent over shape-and trap action will be slow-it does not take long for this to happen. 

A much more functionally efficient version is the true teeter-totter tip-up; we are all familiar with teeter-totters and what happens when the weight is suddenly removed from the low end.

I see that  Google as AOL is trying it again.

Project Gutenberg's Deadfalls and Snares, by A. R. (Arthur Robert) Harding-published 1905. This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg- PUBLISHED BEFORE 1923 ALL MATERIAL IS PUBLIC DOMAIN-THERE IS NO COPY-RIGHT, NO US OWNERSHIP; AND THE ONLY LEGALLY BINDING RESTRICTIONS ARE AGAINST ANY ARCHIVES, COLLECTIONS, LIBRARIES,AND ORGANIZATIONS SUCH AS AMAZON, AOL, GOOGLE, WIKI,  ANY INDIVIDUALS OR PERSONS ATTEMPTING TO IMPOSE RESTRICTIONS AS TO USAGE OR CLAIMING ANY KIND OF OWNERSHIP OR COPY RIGHTS.

All that is needed is a weighted pole and a suitable support of some kind(forked stake,  log, rock, or tree branch).
For a triggering device, use the support variation, described in my post on the simple snare. OR, IF YOU STILL INSIST ON USING IT, the trigger shown can be improved, through using seasoned wood and also through shaping the upper lip of the notch in the vertical anchor stake into a slightly blunted V shape.
NOTE THE  CRUCIAL DIFFERENCES BETWEEN THE TRIGGERING DEVICE SHOWN FOR THIS "TEETER-TOTTER" TIP-UP' AND THE ONE USED FOR THE VERY INEFFICIENT AND BASICALLY, IMPRACTICAL "GREEN TREE/SAPLING SPRING" SET UP.
A few further suggestions: replace the snare noose with a net, in either the tip-up or treadle type trap. Snares can be either made of twine, or wire. Many fox and lynx snare trappers, in Northern Canada, use relatively thin, brass, or copper, wire. Snares work well in cold weather and if properly constructed are pretty sure catchers. When constructed as I suggest, they are definitely not SURVIVOR/VIDEO GAME, TOYS.

I see that Google as AOL is at it again.

Project Gutenberg's Deadfalls and Snares, by A. R. (Arthur Robert) Harding-published 1905. This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg- PUBLISHED BEFORE 1923 ALL MATERIAL IS PUBLIC DOMAIN-THERE IS NO COPY-RIGHT, NO US OWNERSHIP; AND THE ONLY LEGALLY BINDING RESTRICTIONS ARE AGAINST ANY ARCHIVES, COLLECTIONS, LIBRARIES,AND ORGANIZATIONS SUCH AS AMAZON, AOL, GOOGLE, WIKI,  ANY INDIVIDUALS OR PERSONS ATTEMPTING TO IMPOSE RESTRICTIONS AS TO USAGE OR CLAIMING ANY KIND OF OWNERSHIP OR COPY RIGHTS.

A — Spring pole.

B — Staple. Is driven into tree trunk, as shown. 

C — Two small nails driven in tree. STAPLE OR NAILS NEED NOT BE OF METAL,it's just a little easier. if available.

D --Three inch nail head end-NOTICE: which must be above and supported by nail C- down, (Obviously, I did not draw the illustration, 1905 my mother and father were not yet born.) with snare looped at each end with a foot of slack between. As soon as the D — three inch nail is pulled down, it will slip past the nail at top end, when spring pole will instantly take up the slack, also the fox, to staple and does its work-careful examination will show that this is another example of MY SIMPLE TRIGGER(see simple snare).

F — Loop should be 7 inches in diameter and bottom of loop ten inches from the ground.

Further Remarks — The nails should be driven above staple so it will pull straight down to release the snare fastening.

Project Gutenberg's Deadfalls and Snares, by A. R. (Arthur Robert) Harding-published 1905. This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg- PUBLISHED BEFORE 1923 ALL MATERIAL IS PUBLIC DOMAIN-THERE IS NO COPY-RIGHT, NO US OWNERSHIP; AND THE ONLY LEGALLY BINDING RESTRICTIONS ARE AGAINST ANY ARCHIVES, COLLECTIONS, LIBRARIES,AND ORGANIZATIONS SUCH AS AMAZON, AOL, GOOGLE, WIKI,  ANY INDIVIDUALS OR PERSONS ATTEMPTING TO IMPOSE RESTRICTIONS AS TO USAGE OR CLAIMING ANY KIND OF OWNERSHIP OR COPY RIGHTS.

A great many foxes (hares, rabbits, lynx, skunks as well) have been caught in Canada by the plan of the drawing outlined. NOTE HOWEVER, THE VERY POOR TRIGGER DESIGN, AS SHOWN IN THE ILLUSTRATION-- it is afterall a sketched/drawn illustration and it would be rather difficult to show the better, or more complete, version; which would incorporate two vertical pegs and one horizontal rung or stick.

A — the snare, should be made of rabbit wire, four or five strand twisted together. It should be long enough to make a loop about seven inches in diameter when set. Bottom side of snare should be about six inches from the ground. That's what should be, In an actual survival situation, you must use what you've got-WITH YOU-ON YOUR PERSON.

B — is catch to hold down spring pole.

C — is stake.

D — is spring pole. Some, MOSTLY "WEEK END WARRIORS" OR "ADVENTURE GAME SURVIVORS bend down a green, growing sapling for a spring pole, but experienced, CANADIAN TRAPPERS will, almost invariably, (by far the best method, environmentally, functionally and responsibly) cut and trim up a small pole about ten feet long; fasten the big end under a root and bend it down over a crotch, stake or small tree-the action is much, much, faster (there is no need to have near as much bend on the pole as shown, it is just a rough illustration, drawn for convenience nothing else) and the snare is just more reliable. 

                                                                ©Al (Alex, Alexander) D Girvan 2012 All rights reserved.