Elephant Hill/Loon Lake, the Strangest Forest/Wild Fire in all of History; or Nature's the Creator's Devine Providence???

This photo shows the cabin and the woodpile, which is provided free of additional charge--no need to pay $25.00 for a little bag containing 8 toothpicks.

Cabin 12 did start to burn, 13, 14, 15, are long gone.

Where cabins 13, 14, 15 stood. The area now being turned into an RV Site.

Showing the wood Heater/stove and the electric Stove.

Table, chairs and fridge, entrance to the bedroom.

There are two beds one in a separate bedroom, as you see in this photo, the other in the main portion of the cabin. In the old days, when this cabin was still a school student wishing to sleep in class got no such luxury

Cabin 12 in which I stayed this time was originally a one-room schoolhouse. The Bathroom as shown however is a modern innovation. In the old days, the doors let outside and to two outhouses, one labelled Girls the other Boys.

The second bed.

The kitchen area and leading towards the front entrance.

The next few pictures show just how close cabin 16 (the newest and largest, complete with basement) cane to becoming one of the lost. The pictures show the opposite side of the cabin from where the lost cabins were. The trees shown are only about three feet from the cabin.

Cabin 16 was completely surrounded by fire. Areas that one might suppose would survive were lost, while buildings and areas one would think just couldn't survive did.

Giant Hogweed

Heracleum mantegazzianum-Giant Hogweed is a perennial plant and a member of the carrot family. It is a garden ornamental from southwest Asia that is naturalizing in North America and becoming more common in southern and central Ontario. Giant Hogweed has the potential to spread readily and grows along roadsides, ditches and streams. It invades old fields and native habitats such as open woodlands.

Caution: Giant Hogweed is a dangerous weed. Its leaves and stem contain a clear, watery sap that is highly toxic. If you get any of this weed’s sap on your skin, you will notice the following symptoms within 48 hours:

·         Blisters

·         Burns

·         Possible scarring

·         Hypersensitivity to sunlight

What Giant Hogweed Looks Like:

Giant hogweed certainly lives up to its name, growing 3 to 4 metres in height and when in bloom, carries numerous small, white flowers that form an umbrella shape. It looks like a colossal version of Queen Anne's lace, or wild carrot and is often mistaken for angelica or cow parsnip because of its similar leaf pattern. Giant hogweed is most commonly recognised by its flowering stalks, the plant blooms in mid-May through July.

1.      Giant hogweed has a stout, bright green stem that is frequently spotted with dark red and hollow red-spotted leaf stalks that produce sturdy bristles.

2.     The stems grow to more than 2 m high. The hollow stems vary from 3–8 cm (1.2–3.1 in) in diameter, occasionally up to 10 cm (3.9 in).

3.      Each dark red spot on the stem surrounds a hair, and large, coarse white hairs occur at the base of the leaf stalk.

4.     The plant has deeply incised compound leaves which grow up to 1–1.7 m (3 ft 3 in–5 ft 7 in) in width.

5.     Giant hogweed is a biennial or monocarpic perennial, [7]:827 the plants usually begin dying after they have set seed.

6.      It usually flowers in its second year from late spring to midsummer, with numerous white flowers clustered in an umbrella-shaped head that is up to 80 cm (31 in) in diameter across its flat top.

7.      The plant produces 1,500 to 100,000 flattened, 1-centimetre (0.39 in)-long, oval, dry seeds that have a broadly rounded base and broad marginal ridges. Tall dead stems may mark its locations during winter.

If you find the plant in your backyard, the City of Vancouver British Columbia recommends removing it. The weed is a public health hazard and is dangerous to both children and pets.

  How to Get Rid Of Giant Hogweed:

Wear heavy, water-proof gloves, and water-proof coveralls or clothing that leaves no skin exposed.

Wear eye protection.

Remove lower branches to clear a safe path to the main stem.

Remove flower heads when main stem is clear to prevent seed growth and dispersal.

Use a sharp shovel to sever the plant taproot 8 to 12 cm below the surface of the soil.

Put the plant (all leaves, stem and head) in a doubled up garbage bag.

Put the doubled up garbage bag in the garbage.

Do not put giant hogweed in your Green Bin or backyard composter.

What to do if you come in contact with giant hogweed

If You Accidentally Come In Contact With Giant Hogweed Sap, You Should:

Wash the exposed area carefully with soap and water.

Keep the area away from sunlight for at least 48 hours.

Consult a doctor if a rash or blisters develop.

Remember; while there are a number of *safe*plants that look very similar to Giant hogweed such as Cow parsnip, Purple stem angelica, Woodland angelica, Valerian, Lavage, and Queen Anne’s-Lace (also known as Wild carrot). However, unless you are absolutely sure; it’s just not worth taking a chance. The “safe “plants are not as large as a mature Giant hogweed, which grows up to 5.5 metres tall under ideal conditions. The white flower clusters of Giant hogweed resemble those of Queen Anne’s-Lace, but tend to be more widely spaced and can form a flower-head almost one metre wide.

The Tarp Emergency Shelter, Including a Word of Caution About Commercially Manufactured Tents

A "tarp" shelter is often enough for most of our “bushcraft"/survival situations. Most of us only go out for such adventures in rather nice weather anyway.

Although generally bulky, the tarp does not have to be large nor  expensive. They need weigh almost nothing. For one person, one 6 x 10 bought in some hardware or gas station will more than suffice.

Many of you own a military type poncho or ground sheet. These can and were intended to be used to make an emergency shelter. Just make a frame from saplings and tie the ground sheet over it, using para-cord.  Or, use as shown in my illustration (.Sleeping kit is airing in the morning sunshine). A decent-sized tarp creates a fantastic space under which to live, not just sleep. You get much more room than you do in a tent; and, you can adjust the ceiling height to suit yourself. Not just for disaster/survival situations; for most of the year it is my favourite way of sleeping out in the woods. You wake up fresh and in the environment around you, not shut off from it.

The tarp is suspended, running the cord under the apex of the tarp. This gives a line inside the tarp on which one can hang equipment (including, a battery operated camp lantern, for easy reach in the night), as well as being able to air the sleeping kit, socks, etch. under the tarp without fear of it getting wet in a rain shower.

Lay branches and leaves on the ground for bedding, and add side walls, if needed
Very important in winter conditions; if, you are, or intend to be, using a commercially manufactured tent, make sure it is double walled and also large enough to meet your needs. Most "two" man tents have barely enough space for one person.

©Al (Alex-Alexander) D. Girvan. All Rights reserved.

After a Disaster, in an Emergency, Your Campsite.

Often, you may not have a great deal of choice; but you will always have some.

Avoid: 

• Wind
• Steep mountain sides (rock falls)
• Poorly drained areas and marches (especially if you want to avoid mosquitoes).
• Keep in mind that, especially in winter, temperatures may vary greatly over a rather small area. Avoid valley bottoms as often they are colder than the higher ground (sides of the valley). But, In winter especially; avoid sloping terrain to avoid avalanches and stay away from the bottom of hollows, as they will, likely, soon be filled with snow  Of course, the warmest areas are near the sea but you will not usually have that choice.
• Beginning too late,setting camp and/or building a shelter. Begin before it gets dark and  before you get exhausted.
• And, if caught in a blizzard; find or make a shelter/snow cave ASAP or you will probably die. Never, never, attempt to travel in a blizzard. 

Keep Your Campsite in Order.

It is important to keep the camp tidy and your survival kit/equipment in one place, safely stored and within reach. Keep your equipment in the kit, or hang it up at the same spot every time after use. It is not funny running around looked for lost or damaged equipment, when it is needed or wanted. And, in a high stress situation, a tidy camp makes the whole situation a lot more pleasant and tolerable.

Latrine: seldom ever seen, you are not  likely to hear even mention of the word on one of those "reality" survival shows; but if you feel your situation is likely to last for more than one day, it is important to dig a latrine.

• Dig a hole in the ground about 18 inches wide, long and deep. Make sure that the contents of the latrine wont pollute nearby water sources and that it is downwind of your site. To keep smell and flies away, toss a little earth in the pit after use.
• It is also a good idea to keep aa kit for washing up at the site. Hygiene is important in the woods and in all disaster/emergency situations.
• When the  hole starts to become full, just fill it over, and dig a new one.
• No need for "polluting" the woods, your environment with a lot of brown and white, striped, paper; toilet paper is definitely not a necessity; in reality, one could use grass, leaves, ferns, or moss. In winter, one could use snow balls, just like real pioneer survivors. Don't worry about frostbite, it is not as cold as expected, not nearly enough to hurt you, unless your use an exceptionally long time to wipe 

©Al (Alex-Alexander) D Girvan. Al rights reserved.

Fire Safety

This depends on three things: a safe spot for the fire,a safe fire (not the kind often built by a bunch of Nuts, playing survival/adventure games), making sure your fire is out after use. Remember the old Canadian Pioneer/Survivor slogan "Just as you would an innocent daughter, chaperone your fire, don't let it go out alone".

WITH WATER

1. Don't pour water on it, which can actually spread the fire, sprinkle with back of fingers.

2. Spread the sticks and  coals.

3. Sprinkle again. Don't leave it, until coals are cool enough to put your hand on.

WITHOUT WATER

1.Spread sticks and coals

2. Scrape burning embers from large logs and sticks.

3. Cover with dirt.

CHECK AND BE SURE THE FIRE IS DEAD, OUT.

OF COURSE, YOU KNEW ENOUGH TO HAVE BUILT THE FIRE ON ROCK OR MINERAL EARTH TO BEGIN WITH.

©Al (Alex-Alexander) D. Girvan. All rights reserved.

To Make Your Fire Go

Tinder:
Some kind of flammable material that will flare up when touched with the flame of a burning match--or, preferably, you remembered to carry a mini-torch in you personal survival kit. The tinder can be bark from cedar, birch, basswood, elm or willow trees, most any such dry material. Weed tops from aster, thistle, goldenrod,  milk weed, or cattail are also excellent. Fuzz sticks whittled from dry wood, leaving the shavings attached are good fire starters. Fluffed bark of juniper, birch bark, dry dung, dry grass could be used as tinder. Tinder is any kind of material that takes a  minimum of heat to catch fire.

Kindling:
This is the thin branches of split wood that will catch the flame from the tinder and in turn  ignite the heavier fuel. Kindling is mainly procured from trees, evergreen twigs, squaw wood,  which is the dead wood still on trees, that can be collected by simply breaking it off. Willow, alder, and aspen are also excellent. Again, remember the saying: "if you can't snap it, scrap it. Gather a couple of handfuls of this kindling, pencil thin or thinner.

Fuel:
For doing a real job of providing heat or light. This, FUEL, can range from THUMB THICK BRANCHES for cooking a simple meal; to heavy logs, for keeping a fire going through a long, Canadian, winter, night. use whatever wood you can get from a fallen limb or a dead tree branch from a tree. Break, or chop, if you are lucky enough to have an axe or hatchet in your available survival gear, into pieces of suitable length for your fire.--about a foot or so long. Some woods burn burn more easily than others--but,most any wood is usable for a quick meal. Fuel from such trees as hickory, oak, beech, birch, maple, and ash are excellent long burning woods. Make sure you have more than enough fuel wood. It burns more quickly than you think and you don't want to leave your fire, or your cooking while looking around for more more. wood..

Teepee Fire Lay:
Is one of the oldest known fire-lays and was used by primitive and tribal peoples world wide.  This ancient method got it's North American name from  the way it somewhat resembles a native shelter. You will find that it is still one of the easiest and quickest to build and that it is especially good if you intend to do any boiling or frying.

1. Place a large handful of tinder on your prepared fire place.
2. Push a stick into the ground on a slant over the tinder.
3. Now lean a circle of kindling sticks across the slanting stick with their tips together and with an opening towards the wind.
4. Crouch don in front of the prepared fire, set your back to the wine. Strike the match, let it burn into a real flame, then touch it to the tinder, close to the ground.
5. Let the kindling get a good start; then feed the fire, first with thin pieces of fuel wood; then, gradually, with thicker pieces. 
6. Continue feeding until the fire has reached the size you need.

Criss Cross Fire Lay:

This is one of the best methods, when you need a bed of coals for broiling (roasting) or baking.

1. Place two pieces of wood ,about as thick as your wrist, and about a foot long on the ground parallel to one another, about a foot length apart.
2. Place a good handful of tinder on the ground between them.
3. Lay a number of thin kindling sticks crosswise on top of this base  leaving spaced between each stick. Continue building up the cross layers, increasing the thickness of the wood from layer to layer. but always placing the pieces a distance apart This allows the flames and the draft to move upward.
4. About eight layers is enough.
5. Follow instructions 4-6 for teepee fire lay. When properly laid, the criss cross fire sill flare up with a blaze, then quickly turn into a bed of glowing embers suitable for most cooking

©Al (Alex-Alexander) D Girvan. All rights reserved..

Basic Firecraft

If you must eat, if you need warmth, if you just wonder what nameless thing crouches in the night, ready to pounce and make you pay for your indiscretions or sins,; if you fashion tools, if you would signal and communicate with others, or just enjoy social networking you can use fire. And when you have the skills necessary to provide fire when you need it, in any kind of weather, you are  in the way to becoming a true SURVIVOR. Just remember The Mother's rules and that though it can be called Canada's true national game and belongs lock, stock, and barrel, to Canada, it is not the most popular of-- Let's forget the BS--it is NOT a game or at least not one that anyone really WANTS to play.

The ability of making fire is important; it can even save your life. If you can't already light a fire, learn to do it-correctly and efficiently:

 A fire can provide warmth on cold days and nights.

 You can cook your food.

Purify (or at least disinfect-they are not the same thing) water.

You can signal for help (signal fire)

It can help you make and temper tools

It acts as a moral boost in an emergency situation. I'm sure you know the feeling one gets just gazing into a fire at night.

Our early Canadian pioneers-those of European or mixed European native decent- as did the earlier purely indigenous (first migrant) predecessors used fire as a basic survival tool. Whatever our distant racial heritage, fire helped all our ancestors develop this country, at the forge, clearing the land, cooking their meals, heating their homes and shelters, and in many other ways. The very first migrants, those we often called Indians of course, used it for warmth and cooking, making tools and weapons and as a signalling method as well as just a tool of survival.

Although obviously not made in their own image, to most primitive peoples of the world, fire was a god; and this is quite understandable as it raised them- in one way- somewhat above the so called dumb animals and made what we now call "civilization possible. The Greeks regarded fire as a gift from the gods they had created and come to worship. From away back in time, fire has been held in awe by man--even men who did not directly use it for warming themselves, cooking their food, lighting their way, melting their metals, or any of the basic needs. You only have to stare into the curling flames, to be lost in many dreams of comfort, fellowship, and safety in the dark.© Al (Alex-Alexander) D. Girvan. All rights reserved.

A Log Survival Cabin-and Everything You Need to Know About Survival Shelters

The building of a log shelter, of any size,will require a greater number of labour intensive, hours, than for which the average disaster/emergency survival exists. In any and all cases, anywhere in Canada; if you have no other shelter available; and, it is any later than mid September; the building of one is going to take more time than you have available--that is, before you freeze to death; or die of hypothermia.

What Is Hypothermia?

Used as a prefix, ‘hypo-’ means ‘under’ or ‘below normal’.  So hypothermia means below normal temperature.    

When you are awake, your body needs to maintain a core temperature of approximately 37oC (98.6oF).  This is sometimes referred to as ‘normothermia’, i.e. your normal temperature.   

Medically, hypothermia is defined as a body core temperature below 35oC (95oF).  This represents a 2oC (3.6oF) drop from normal body core temperature.  This allows for normal temperature fluctuations that occur through a 24 hour period, including temperature changes in your body while you sleep. 

In reality, however, if someone is awake, normally fit and healthy and has a body core temperature of 35oC (95oF) in a remote outdoors setting, they are likely to be in trouble already.  If they still have the energy they may well be shivering violently.  In the outdoors, you need to do something about a falling body core temperature before it gets to this stage.  We need to look for signs and symptoms of hypothermia in our companions.  Learning to recognise the signs and symptoms – and recognise them early – is very important--at any time--not just in disaster/survival situations. 

Really, more intended for PIONEERING bushcraft; or long term inhabitation than disaster/emergency survival; a log cabin is perhaps one of the most permanent shelters that can be constructed from natural materials. It requires a huge initial outlay in time, energy and resources but can provide an extremely useful and resistant long term shelter. It also has value (but, only when practised in a environmentally friendly, responsible manner) as a 'troop project' or for putting those pioneering/axe/saw skills into practise.

The first thing you will need to decide is the size of your log cabin. You can always add sections at a later stage but the main section should be designed with a size (and use) in mind. You will need to clear a suitably large area and flatten the ground, removing any rocks, undergrowth etc.  The shape is up to you, but I suggest you stick with the standard rectangle/square and a sensible size for a small cabin would be around 8-10 ft. square

The next thing you will need is a ready supply of logs. Please take care when constructing your cabin that you get permission to fell any trees or remove any logs. Obviously standard safety procedures should be undertaken if you intend to 'make your own'. The main body of the cabin is relatively simple to construct, simply arrange the logs in a square, the only complication being the joints at each end (you could simply lash the logs together and fill in any gaps, although I would not recommend this for any reasonable sized cabin).

As you can clearly see, in my model illustration, simply stacking the logs, one on another,would leave very wide open spaces between them. By the time you  got all of them all filled; you would, in reality, have a reinforced sod shelter. Like an Inuit iglu, the shelter could then keep you fairly warm, even in the coldest conditions; but, just one problem—you would be long dead.

The second model illustration, above, depicts true saddle notching and, requires, perhaps, debatable, a greater expenditure of time, and labour; but, it will allow you to achieve a very close fit; if you are truly willing, and able to spend your –most valuable possession-TIME that really, requires no chinking. The logs are notched only on the bottom side. Other methods are at least slightly, more complicated and are used to produce even stronger, and/or neater (urban civilised) looking, cabins.

The third illustration, shown above, illustrates what is, probably, best described as a Double Saddle Notch; for which is, almost, a necessity to have also available a broad axe; or at least a good draw knife-gives-rather can give-with a greater expenditure of labour and TIME-an even closer fit. 

To join the logs simply 'notch' at each end (although not at the very end). Be careful to leave a overhang each time and do not remove this overhang, it is what will give the cabin strength. In the illustrations the logs have been notched top and bottom, using a simple notch.If done properly, this method can produce a very tightly fit wall, with little, or no, need for any chinking (so can the saddle notching method).
One on the main tricks is the very start. For what will be the width of you cabin; do not notch the first two logs. This will lift up the two logs on what will become the length of the cabin, giving an opening of half a log and this is where you fit the beams for you flooring in. From then on it may take a little work but the logs can be made to fit tightly together (I do suggest putting a small amount of moss between, to act as insulation).

There are many other methods and variations of corner notching, some of which are shown above: for the first (top left of illustration), also a simple method-actually even simpler- 

When using the last shown method; the very end of each horizontal log is notched (using the interlocking dove tail design) and then fitted into the corner post. 
Logs, also, may be squared, on at least what is to be the bottom, and top, sides. The first log is notched half way through, on what will be the top side; while the other is notched half way through on what will be the bottom side. This, flattened, or squared, construction, keeps the logs level on all sides. The more advanced methods require a skilled craftsman; and are not usually used for short term, or survival type construction.

Simply stacking logs on top of each one another you will quickly run into problems. Because any natural log will have some 'taper' to it you will want to alternate their direction at each layer. Remember to leave space for a doorway too!, preferably on the side away from the prevailing wind. If you feel particularly ambitious construct a door frame from shorter sections. I would not bother trying any fancy 'doors' (at least at the early stages), a simple cloth covering to the door will suffice. You may also want to include windows, although for a typical ten foot square cabin, the door and chimney will give ample light and ventilation, and the increased effort in constructing a (safe) window is simply not worth it.

Unless you like sleeping in pools of water you will want a sloping roof to your cabin. As you near the required height you will need to build up the back of the cabin higher than the front. A simple lashed cross frame across the top will support your roof. Remember to notch your cross beams to fix them in place.

Now comes the waterproofing. Firstly you will want to fill in the gaps between the logs. The best way to do this is to mix up a 'paste' of mud, leaves, grass, moss, wood chips and caulk the gaps by firmly inserting your mixture. Try to force it right into the gap. For very large gaps you may want to fill the gap with a sapling, or branch, before, and after; caulking.

The roof is the final part of the structure. I would recommend a 'light' roof on a timber frame rather than a solid log roof (I don't think I could trust my construction to hold the weight safely!). Simply lay (lash) saplings down across the main cross beams and cover in the desired material. You could try for a thatch by weaving long grass in and out of the saplings, or you could go for the full tile method, bark is an ideal material for this, either way a layer of mud across the saplings/thatch will help to make the roof completely waterproof. These bark tiles could even be pegged down with small twigs while the mud underneath is still soft. If you wish to have a fire within the cabin you will need to leave a small hole for smoke to escape (although you must NEVER leave the fire unattended!). Those of you with far too much time on your hands may wish to make a full stone chimney.

Link:

To see other shelters: requiring fewer resources and lot less effort, valuable energy, effort, skill, and time to construct.©Al (Alex-Alexander) D. Girvan. All rights reserved

The Sod Survival Hut-Everything You Need to Know About

Though like log construction they are really, more intended for pioneer bushcraft; or long term inhabitation than disaster/emergency survival;There are some who claim that the sod hut is a forerunner of the all snow igloo; which to put it as mildly as I am able, is very highly unlikely. Firstly, sod huts are not are not brick or adobe, they are usually rectangular or square in shape and not being impervious to water, generally employ some kind of frame support. Unlike the all snow igloo, they are not free standing, dome shaped and do not employ arch or spiral construction.

But, like, the debris shelter, or any other shelter made from mud,sod, turf or tundra can be a viable  alternative: in areas where either timber itself is scarce, or if you just don't happen to have your trailer load of fancy "survival" tools along to work with. 

Although there was usually no lack of available timber, early pioneers of Ukrainian decent; especially those who settled in the area of present day Mundare, Alberta, Canada used a lot of sod or clay construction. 

Fire- places do not have to be inside and fire reflectors may be used in conjunction with any type of shelter; notice the fire reflector in above illustration.

THE SMALL BARK TEEPEE (TIPI) OR WIGWAM

OF COURSE, THE SMALL BARK TEEPEE, TIPI, WIGWAM, DEBRIS/WHATEVER HUT, DID NOT ORIGINATE IN ANY OF THE THREE AMERICAS AND IS, IN FACT,  PROBABLY, OF AFRICAN ORIGIN.

MODERN VARIATIONS OF THIS: HUT, TEEPEE (TIPI), OR WIGWAM, NOW USUALLY CONSTRUCTED FROM NYLON, ARE IN VERY COMMON USAGE TODAY. YOU FIND THESE TENTS IN ANY OUTDOOR CAMPING SUPPLY AND MOST SPORTING GOODS STORES. THEY REMAIN AN INTEGRAL PART OF ANY COMPLETE SURVIVAL KIT.

You or I can not copyright public Domain Material.

 Although you or I can "buy" a copy right, IT IS STILL THE ORIGINAL COPY RIGHT ; the time period is NOT extended. 

If any group or person (archive, collector, First Nations, Museum, whatever;

 claims ownership or attempts to restrict usage; 

it is they that are in violation of the law,

 NOT THE PERSON DOWNLOADING, OR OTHERWISE, MAKING USE OF THE MATERIAL FOR NON COMMERCIAL PURPOSES.

Public Domain: copyright has expired

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Ojibwe_wiigiwaam_and_Dakota-style_tipis,_White_Earth_1928.jpg

Public Domain Photo
NOTE: none of the structures pictured are of bark construction.

Very similar to the beaver lodge; and several other disaster, emergency survival, or debris shelters; the small bark tipi evolved from the earlier dome-shaped birch-bark wigwam of mostly Woodland Cree people. This, or a similar, type of shelter was used by indigenous, clan/tribal, peoples on every continent-worldwide-they were not exclusive to; or originate in; any of the "Americas". Definitely they did not originate with any of the present "First Nations"or  Métis; who are not aboriginal or indigenous; but are, in fact  a very recently evolved; exclusively North American; hybrid people.

These are individual nuclear family homes. They are easier to insulate in winter. than the conical small tipi shape. In addition to the woven reed mats, wigwams were covered in winter with a thick layer of dirt and sod, braced up around the sides and over the roof, after the danger of late fall rains was past. These structures are small. Most cooking was done outside (there was a very small heating fire centrally within). They were built anew each season at each camping place, with fresh birch bark and new matting insulation. These were shelters for sleeping, and to wait out the storms. By contrast, the Southern Plains bison hide tipi, with its large diameter, its high and controllable smoke exit, a design permitting a larger inside fire, was a roomy, yet cosy place--if, and when, you had and managed to maintain a sufficient supply of wood or other fuel-otherwise, because of the minimal insulation quality and rapid heat loss, you would much more quickly; freeze to death.
The wigwam's dome construction might be of bent willow, or the flexible, tough dogwood, often called "Bear Berry"  Kinnikinnick (which actually means smoking mix; is not the name ofany berry, or plant.) or although I never ever heard it called such in Western Canada, apparently, for some strange, unknown, reason,"Red Willow"  by some people of partial Algonquin heritage and considered one of the 4 Anishinaabe sacred plants.

Bear Berry or Kinnikinnick
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Arctostaphylos-uva-ursi.JPG

PICTURED BELOW;
THE SHRUB OR TREE  USUALLY KNOWN TO WESTERN CANADIAN "CANADIANS"

 AS PUSSY

OR

RED WILLOW, 

AT LEAST IT'S A WILLOW,

 AND UNLIKE BEAR BERRY,
IT IS RED
IT'S FROM THIS
 RED OR PUSSY WILLOW 
THAT WE GET

SALICYLIC ACID-ASPIRIN

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Salix_discolor_(USDA).jpg

RED WILLOW-SALIX DISCOLOUR

Attribution:  User:Bosto    
IMAGE SOURCE      http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:PussyWillowBoston.jpg

©Al ( Alex, Alexander) D Girvan 2012 All rights Reserved

IGLU, IGLUIT. AND THE ALL SNOW IGLOO SHELTER

We all know; I should be saying; we all THINK; we know; what an igloo is. 
For all of you who live in the United States of the Americas and for any others of you, anywhere who prefer "American" to the "English" language but have never read Merriam Webster's dictionary; although it is not 100% correct; this is the definition there in for igloo: "an Eskimo house, USUALLY MADE OF SOD WOOD OR STONE, when permanent, or of blocks of snow, or ice, in the shape of a dome, when built for temporary purposes". The very word Igloo is but an "American"(from the United States of the Americas) corruption of the proper Indigenous, Native Canadian spelling iglu-plural igluit.

Although igluit are usually associated, by most people, with all Inuit, they were predominantly constructed by the people of Canada's Lower Central Arctic and Greenland's Thule area, where the snow conditions were more favourable for this type of construction (strangely, the area most suitable for this type of construction is not to be found in the Arctic at all but in the mountainous areas of western North America--you know, those areas in which we usually build our high priced winter ski resorts);perhaps, that is why the mountains are shown in the above illustration.. 
Snow igluit are very efficient shelters but require considerable practice to build them properly. Also, you must be in an area that has enough (most of the Arctic has not) snow that IS suitable for cutting snow blocks, and have the equipment to cut them (snow knife).

Note: "Eskimo" is an eastern Ojibwa or Algonquian (USA) word meaning 'those who eat their meat raw.' Inuit means "We people." . The Inuit ate about half their meat raw, because for both light and heat in the winter months there were only stone lamps filled with rendered sea mammal fats, no fuel for much cooking. However, the raw meats and fish were far more nourishing than if they had been cooked.

Architecturally, the pure snow iglu, is unique, in all of the Americas. Igluit are also much more energy/heat efficient than any of the shelters used by more Southern indigenous tribes. It is also more energy efficient than any of the brick, frame, log, sod, even stone or composite constructions used by peoples of European heritage including the present so called "Metis" or "First Nations.
Although the arch was well known to the "OLD WORLD” the pure snow iglu is the only aboriginal/native design that incorporates such construction (built based on a spiral, a dome and arch that can be raised out of independent blocks leaning on each other; and cut to fit without an additional supporting structure. The blocks of an all snow igloo do not have to fuse together).

There is every possibility that the Inuit people were taught snow igluit construction by early Norse explorers but see also the debris shelter .

You do not build an all snow igloo out of "ice"or"slush" and if it is correctly and safely constructed, an igloo does not use wet snow as a type of mortar. There should be no melted snow; so you should never get wet during the construction phase. But it does take time and energy especially if you haven't the first clue about what you are attempting to do. You could start to perspire (scientific term--Sweat). That sweat could freeze and form a thin film of ice next to your body. Try not to let this happen--because-- if does, you will probably die of hypothermia long before construction is completed.

To Build an iglu, Purely out of Snow.
First, find a drift or other area that will provide slightly COMPACTED snow--NOT ICE that has all fallen at approximately the same time (blocks that are formed from snow that has fallen during markedly different time periods tend to separate and are not suitable for construction). Most of the construction is done from the inside and the entrance is actually an exit cut through the side AFTER  construction is almost completed.

The above diagrams have one other serious flaw; they look a little too much like a BEAVER LODGE. The all snow iglu usually does NOT have a subterranean entrance (exit). 
         Then, before starting the construction of your igloo, you want to "lay out" its             interior circumference.

• Next in the exact middle of the circle, mark out your sleeping platform.
• Start at the exterior edge of what will become your sleeping platform and roughly cut out rectangular block of a size suitable for construction. Of course, since you are far from being an expert they will still require considerable cutting and fitting. Two blocks are usually placed in their approximate final location and then given a finished shape and fit. In order to allow ventilation, blocks do not always fit together tightly in the adjoining corners. They are not "polished", the out side of the hut is not to be "plastered" with wet or any other snow; you do not want ice. The denser a material the less it insulates. If the air, trapped in snow, is replaced by water; or forced out through compression of the snow; insulation is reduced. If you do not believe this, try a little experiment: obtain a block of solid hard frozen ice and a block of snow, both of the exact same weight; place them both on a red hot stove then closely observe. Which one of them was completely melted first?
• The top level of your sleeping plat form should be half the height of the roof (the level at which the air in your iglu is the warmest. Ensure that the roof is then high enough so that you can sit up on the sleeping platform.
• The walls and ceiling should be at least eighteen inches thick.
• In order that they act like a window and let in some diffused light; the king block, and perhaps, one other block, may be cut and shaped out of fresh water ice--but remember in the Canadian Arctic there is very little winter daylight.
• Because you do not want the snow to melt and the formation of ice in an iglu (it reduces the insulating quality of the snow and reduces ventilation; you do not want to allow the air temperature next to the walls to get above freezing (which could lead to you suffocation or death from carbon monoxide poisoning. The Inuit used "bitch" lamps (very similar to Aladdin's lamp) for some cooking and for light. However, very little cooking is done inside the main part of an iglu; heaters per-say are seldom used, and you never install a stove. 
• Snow igluit are not designed to PROVIDE heat or warmth; like a barn for farm animals, they simply TRAP body heat inside. Of course, there are other reasons for this, other than the possibility of suffocation, there just are not a lot of fuel supplies in the Arctic; especially in the winter, but even if there were, melting the iglu would not improve things in any way and especially not if you are already facing a threat to survival. Therefore, inhabitants use mainly body heat (traditionally, families all slept together; and, they slept naked), clothing, good Arctic quality mummy sleeping bags, or traditionally thick fur robes (usually caribou but polar bear as well--unlike bison, bears are solitary animals so the Inuit we quite successful when hunting them) to stay warm-- or more-- keep from freezing. I have read reports of the interior of snow igloos being dripping wet; perhaps that is in the summer. 

The building of an iglu, out of snow blocks, or even by hollowing out a snow mound; is not a good choice for a novice; without prior survival training; to even attempt in an actual disaster/survival situation.

I have read survival manuals, written by presumed, or at least, self-proclaimed experts, the authors of which had absolutely no knowledge of how an iglu is actually built or what they were talking about. Some of these "experts" even mention getting soaked during construction-the result of which- in  an actual survival situation would undoubtedly be DEATH by freezing; SURVIVAL"???; I would call it SUICIDE.

In closing, I would like to mention that there is a considerable amount of misleading information out there. While it is very true that an iglu that is built correctly will support the weight of a person standing on the roof; this is not due to the fact that the traditional Kudlik (stone lamp or "bitch lamp", mentioned above) causes the interior to melt--a lot or even slightly. The individual blocks of snow are not glued or welded together. Nor do you want them to ever be. The strength of the all snow iglu is due solely to the domed, arched, building technique; that causes that persons weight to; instead of pushing directly downward, to be evenly distributed throughout the entire structure. But, why would you ever want to stand on an iglu?

©Al-Alex-Alexander D. Girvan 1995-2012-2013. All rights reserved.

BOY AMONG POLAR BEARS, a documentary video, showing  an actual snow iglu, and how it was built; fully demonstrates everything that I have pointed out in this article.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ky57HCQPSNk