For Arctic Char, Salmon, Steelhead, the Single and the Double Bait/Egg Loop, Whip Knot

The single or the double egg loop,whip knot(toward bottom of linked post) can be used for any type fish; is the best knot for simply tying a hook to line; and probably the most versatile of all knots.

ABOVE-GROUND STILL

STILL CONSTRUCTION
You can use stills in various areas of the world. They draw moisture from the ground and from plant material. The flaws in this method--you need certain materials to build a still, and you need time to let it collect the water. It takes about twenty-four hours to get 0.5 to 1 quart of warer.

To make the above ground still, you need a sunny slope on which to place athe still, a clear plastic bag, green leafy vegetation, and a small rock.
To Make the Still

• Fill the bag with air by turning the opening into the breeze or by "Scooping" air into the bag.
• Fill the plastic bag half to three-quarters full of green leafy vegetation. Be sure to remove all hard sticks or sharp spines that might puncture the bag.

CATION: Do not use poisonous vegetation. It will provide poisonous liquid.

• Place a small rock or similar item in the bag.
• Close the bag and tie the mouth securely as close to the end of the bag as possible to keep the maximum amount of air space. If you have a piece of tubing, a small straw, or a hollow reed, insert one end in the mouth of the bag before you tie it securely. Then tie off or plug the tubing so that air will not escape. This tubing will allow you to drain out condensed water without untying the bag.
• Place the bag, mouth downhill, on a slope in full sunlight. Position the mouth of the bag slightly higher than the low point in the bag.
• Settle the bag in place so that the rock works itself into the low point in the bag.

To get condensed water from the still, loosen the tie around the bags mouth and tip the bag so that the water collected around the rock will drain out. Then retie the mouth securely and reposition the still to allow further condensation. Change the vegetation in the bag after extracting most of the water from it. This will ensure maximum output of water.

THE POUND, DOG-CATCHERS WAND

Is just another variation of the simple snare. it does have some uses; such as dragging an animal out of a beaver lodge, burrow, or den.

So What’s The Best Survival/Bushcraft Knife: to Own, and to Use?

"Your key ring compass is trained on north; north is where you know a highway stretches across the horizon; the highway is where you know you'll finally have the chance to be saved. It's been days since the accident that sent you sliding into the rapids and tumbling over a waterfall. Body bruised, arm broken, head concussed, it was hours before you woke up dazed and vomiting on the bank of the river.

You lost your main pack in the fall, phone, tent, sleeping bag, spare clothes, hiking boots, food, gone. All you have left is your personal,disaster, emergency, survival kit; and your survival knife-- thank goodness for that. Without it, you'd be dead. And over the past several days, one item in particular has endeared itself to you time and time again: the survival knife.

You figure you're still a day or two away from civilization, and as evening approaches, the temperature is falling fast. You start making camp, using your survival knife to cut the large amount of wood you'll need to fuel your fire throughout the frigid night. But suddenly, the blade snaps off at the handle and flies back over your shoulder. Shaking over the thought that you could have just lost an eye, you think back to when you stood in the camping supplies store to stock up on equipment and surveyed the vast array of knife choices. Did you buy a dud? Will your “Survival Knife” increase or decrease your chances of actual survival."

So What’s The Best Survival/Bushcraft Knife and tool: to Own, and to Use?

There are many who will immediately answer, without any hesitation what so ever; a hatchet or at least a knife heavy and rugged enough to be used to chop, dig, build fires, serve as a hunting weapon, split wood, build shelters; be used as a sledge hammer, make-shift screwdriver, a crow-bar or prying tool, and for signalling.
There in lies the major problem when it comes to selecting a "Survival Knife". Knives should not be used for chopping, digging,  or splitting wood; cleavers, hatchets,and shovels are designed for such purposes. if you do not have such items; digging sticks, and/or fairly sharply edged rocks may be improvised. 

A survival knife is: any knife you actually have with you  in a real life-not an adventure or game-survival situation. 
Likewise, the "BEST"SURVIVAL KNIFE is the one you are carrying-ON YOUR PERSON

Therefore, you do not want it too big .

 DO NOT ABUSE IT BY HAMMERING ON IT; OR USING IT IN CONJUNCTION WITH A BATON. TREAT ALL YOUR AVAILABLE SURVIVAL TOOLS WITH RESPECT, YOU JUST COULD NEED THEM FOR A CONSIDERABLE PERIOD OF TIME.

Back in the days when most everyone actually had to rely on their hand tools for every day survival; prior to the late 19th century, outdoors men and even military personnel did not use knives that were notably different from the knives used by cooks or butchers. Blades were always relatively thin and in order to resist slipping and facilitate replacement in event of breakage; the handles were often no more than two bone or wooden slabs riveted to the full tang.

 So What’s The Best Knife to Own and Use in the Field?

Before deciding, be  sure to watch all of the linked videos; all are done by a master who not only really knows what he is doing but he shows enough that after fifteen; to twenty years, of diligent practice; you may be able to do it half so well. I think he will convince you that not only are big, heavy, cumbersome, knifes not necessary in a survival situation; they can be a major detriment. 

How to muscle bone a side of beef or any big game animal: video 1 -video 2-video 3-video 4-video 5. 

Perhaps, just perhaps, a pocket knife, a  second world war type commando knife, OR SOMETHING LIKE THE BONING KNIFE PICTURED BELOW ARE ALL YOU REALLY NEED. The blade of a boning knife is somewhat stiffer than a filleting knife meaning that slightly better technique is required when it is used for filleting; but, it will serve the purpose and it will better serve the purposes of aiding in repairing gear, cutting slits, thongs, etch, even in cutting tinder to start a fire.

That of course, depends on just what field we're talking about. Are we talking about “REAL WORLD- DISASTER SURVIVAL”, or are we talking about the “FIELD” on which we are playing out the latest episode of our “REALITY” survival/adventure excursion? Perhaps you just wish to "TIP-TOE THROUGH THE TULIPS?

OR, ARE YOU DRESSED IN A CAMOUFLAGE, MEXICAN BANDITO, PIRATES OF THE CARIBBEAN, OR  NINJA SUIT; PLANNING ON DASHING OFF THROUGH THE BACKWOODS, ON A BASH, SLASH, SHOOT, AND SMASH ADVENTURE? DO YOU PLAN ON SHOOTING OR KILLING ANYTHING AND EVERYTHING THAT DARES TO MOVE—CHOPPING DOWN EVERYTHING THAT LOOKS GREEN?

 I F YOU ARE, GO BIG—GET SOMETHING THAT WILL REALLY DRIVE HOME, TOO ALL YOUR SPECTATORS, JUST HOW MUCH OF A BIG, TOUGH, MACHO SURVIVOR TYPE YOU REALLY ARE,—AND DON’T STOP AT JUST ONE. YOU WILL NEED SEVERAL—START WITH THREE OR FOUR CROCODILE DUNDEE/RAMBO TYPE BOWIE KNIVES, AND THEN ADD A FEW OTHER “REAL KNIVES”. THE TYPE THAT ARE PART BATTLE AXE, LUMBERMAN’S PIKE—AND A FEW THAT ARE COMBINATION KNIFE/THROWING STAR, LASER GUN SIGHT. ADD A FEW MORE FROM PAST EPISODES OF STAR TREK OR STAR WARS; DON’T FORGET A FEW MACHETES YOU WILL WANT TO MAKE SURE THAT YOU HAVE ENOUGH SCRAP IRON TO REALLY WEIGH YOUR PANTS DOWN AND MAKE AN IMPRESSION.

Or maybe, you just want to do a few “crafts”; build some model cars, build SOME SHIPS IN A BOTTLE—OR SOME SURVIVAL TOOLS THAT YOU CAN DISPLAY PROUDLY--IN YOUR TROPHY CASE. In this case, you will need at least one “Swiss Army Knife (more awkward and bigger the better—with all the gadgets), a “Leather- Man” knife, and a Victorinox Swiss Tool—you might need a “Cork Screw” to open up your bottles of wine.

Heading out, on an excursion, into the "Boonies" is not participating in CANADA'S national game of SURVIVAL it is; just playing.

Or, if you’re just planning to survive (live) in a remote inhospitable area, say, after a plane crash, earthquake, flood, hurricane  mud/rock slide, tornado, or just getting off the beaten trail and losing your way; perhaps all you need is a good pocket knife and a “British Army”(strange how British or Canadian keeps popping up, do you suppose there is a "good" reason?), double edged, Commando Knife (first or second world war vintage; or even simpler and, perhaps, more obtainable and practical; a commercial quality “Muscle Boning/Filleting Knife (such as the one shown above).

Think, How Will You Be Most Using Your Knife/Knives—In What Manner?

·        Will you be using it to scrape the sap layer (a soft tissue lying between the wood and outer bark of aspen, birch, pine, spruce, willow and most other woods), that is very nourishing when eaten raw, cut into strips and cooked like noodles, or in soups or stew?

·        Will you be using it to butcher, dress, muscle bone, and prepare fish, game, or meat for cooking, drying, preserving, or transportation?

     Might you use it to cut lacing from animal hides?

     Might you on occasion use your knife as an awl; to puncture or cut slits in materials to facilitate using such lacing?

·        Might you be using it to carve out cooking and eating utensils?

·        Will you be using it to carve out "digging sticks?

·        Perhaps, you will be constructing snares and/or other traps and will need to cut precision triggers?

·        Will you be using it to clean, peel, dice, cube, chunk, slice vegetables?

·        Might you use it to cut kindling, shave tinder?

·        Might you have to use it in first aid? 

·        The list goes on and on; but few-- if any-- of these uses call for an awkwardly large, heavy, or even exceptionally rugged knife (a knife best designed for use in a survival situation is NOT intended to be used as a weapon--survival of this type is NOT A MILITARY OPERATION--it is about LIFE). They do—all call for a knife that is sharp (is easily sharpened and maintained), has a narrow, possibly somewhat flexible blade, a handle that fits the hand (slip resistant), and that is: CONVENIENT TO CARRY AND CONVNIENT TO USE.

·        It would be very, very difficult indeed to do muscle boning or filleting with a big, heavy, or awkward knife.

Bushcraft Knifes vs. Camping/Survival Game Knifes

Choosing a bushcraft knife is highly personal for most of us. In a way, isn’t the knife we carry an ultimate extension of who we are, as much as what car we drive or what brand of tools we own? However it’s important to carefully consider what jobs you’ll need your knife for, and for this all knives are not created equal. For outdoorsman who rely heavily on their knives as all-purpose tools, there are two general, and very overlapping categories: bushcraft knives and camping or survival knives.

The distinction between these two categories is rather vague, but generally we can say a bushcraft knife has a thinner blade than a camping knife, although again, many people will use these terms interchangeably, and it’s not an industry standard by any means. But in most bushcrafters minds, there is a difference so we’ll go with that.

A bushcraft knife is generally suited for light and medium duties, such as skinning game, general food preparation, carving wood, making pointed sticks for cooking over the fire, making feather sticks, shaving tinder and so on. You can choose these in either fixed blade or a folder, and we’ll go over these choices in more detail shortly.

To weekend survivors or those claim to live the “survivor life style” a survival or camping knife is usually considered to have a heavier, thicker blade than a bushcraft knife. This thick, strong blade will be less likely to break or get dull under severe use, but it also won’t be as sharp or as suitable for fine or more intricate work. It’ll not be as suitable for carving, skinning game or other work that would require a thinner, sharp more precise tool.

Camping/Survival Game knives are well suited for batoning wood, chopping through  branches, prepping material to make a shelter, splitting wood for the fire, prying, opening stubborn food packages you know, all the jobs that are much better done using an axe or that may not be necessary to do at all.

Really, Important Features.

Blades

Bushcraft knives are generally about 4 to 8 inches long, which is a good compromise between size and dexterity. As we talked about, you’ll want one of these knives for finer work so a small or medium sized blade allows you to do finer work than a large blade. A survival or camp knife, on the other hand, ranges from 8 to up to 12 or more inches. These knives often are used for chopping, hacking, slashing, as weapons for self-defence and as points for hunting weapons. The durability and leverage provided by a larger blade is ideal. Having said that, I still refrain from anything larger than 8 inches, but again this is a personal preference and is partially determined by your environment.. I use a knife to do the jobs a knife is intended to do.

Blade materials are another consideration. There are many, many, types of alloys, which would require a whole article in itself. Sticking with quality manufacturers in most cases ensures you’ll get a quality alloy. Most often you’ll have to choose between stainless steel for your blade, or carbon steel. As a rule of thumb, carbon steel is harder than stainless steel and will stay sharp longer. Most guys prefer carbon steel for this reason, as having to resharpen your blades in the outdoors, or in the middle of cleaning your game, is rather inconvenient to say the least. The downside is once carbon steel is dull, it’s more difficult to resharpen. Stainless steel also tends to cost more, because it’s more complicated to manufacture than other types of steel. One warning, some people believe stainless steel is impervious to rust. This is not true, so caring for your knife properly is important regardless of the material.

One last thing we need to know about blades is the grind. This is the shape of the sharp edge. The two most common are the Scandinavian grind or scandi grind, and the Flat grind. The scandi grind is used on thinner blades that require a very sharp, keen edge, where the flat grind is usually found on thicker blades. The flat grind will not dull quite as fast, but the tradeoff is it’s not as sharp, but only mildly so. Neither are too difficult to resharpen.

Knife Handles and Tang

The Tang is the part of the blade that sticks into the handle. This is where the handle attaches to the blade. This is one area where you should not compromise because it greatly affects the strength and durability of your knife. Look for what is called a Full Tang. The blade and tang are one solid piece of steel. A full tang is the same size as the handles, and the handle is often (but not always) visible around the edge of the handle, and the handle is two pieces sandwiched around the tang. Some knives have a hidden full tang, so it’s not as apparent, but always check the specs or ask if you’re not sure. TIP: Stay FAR away from those “survival knives” with the hollow handle full of unneeded, useless tools(many manufacturers also make multi tools, Gerber and Leatherman being two very popular brands-they usually have screw drivers, pliers, knife blades, files, and just about anything else you can think of-they really are amazingly versitle). This greatly compromises strength and usability; while they may be handy in an indoor workshop, they are not really suitable for any serious outdoor work.

As far as handles go for your bushcraft knife, you’ll want one that fits comfortably in your hand and offers a grip that will not be slippery, especially when wet. There are many blades out there that get style points with a fancy, designer handle. They look awesome, but in the back country, your outdoors knife needs function over form first and foremost. Micarta is a popular choice, as is stag bone, but they are not the only choices. Your knives will get greasy and wet, and the last thing you want is you hand slipping down onto the cutting edge, or that blade flying right out of your hands!

Other Bushcraft Knife Considerations and Tips

Fixed blade or folder?

Fixed blades will be more durable and easier to keep clean, than a folding knife, in most cases, but a folder is more convenient to carry. My own personal choice is to carry a folding knife. In fact, when in the arctic, I always preferred to carry two knives, so I could better cover all types of jobs. My opinion is that one knife won’t quite do it all.

© Al (Alex, Alexander) D Girvan-2012. All rights reserved

Saws

Survival- Saws

Axes are not really “needed”, for survival, or in a survival kit, neither are saws, but they are handy and I’ll bet you have a “big-one” included in your field survival kit, right? Why? As I stated above, they are not really needed for survival and just add unnecessary weight to the kit you have to carry with you.

But you insist that you “must” have a saw; so what are the alternatives (see as well my posting on the knives I carry)? Actually there are several; two of which we will discuss.

Basically, There are Four Types of Wire Saws:

·        Commando Wire saws are made in England, of high quality steel, for the British military.

·        Like many things in North America, so called “genuine” “G I issue” wire saws are made in China, often from an inferior grade of steel, not in the United States OF America, they are not standard military issue.

·        Surgical wire saws are just that, intended for surgery.

·        Spiral saws are designed for high speed (500O rpm) cutting of composites, metal and some wood etch.

Obviously, the British SAS wire saws are, without a doubt, the best survival saws on the market. They are rugged, tough, sharp, and fast cutting. They are made out of rust-proof, stainless steel; and will cut easily through bone, bamboo, wood, ice, or metal. They are not only used by the British; but by Canada, the US, and other  countries as well.

How to Use a Wire, Survival, Saw

© Al (Alex, Alexander) D Girvan-2012. All rights reserved.

Hunting With Dart/Spear Throwers, (or in North America, the Atlatl),

Survival-Dart/Spear Throwers, or in North America, the Atlatl

By now, especially if you are one those “macho/he-man types that just has to go tramping off through the woods in hunt of “BIG GAME”; animals that are at least somewhat worthy of your greatly inflated ego; you have probably had several failed attempts at bow making and  just as many in arrow production. Now after hearing that last sickening crack of a bow that took countless hours for you to fashion with precise precision—or maybe it was after you put  one of your stone headed precision arrows through your neighbours large, plate glass, living room window—you have decided that bow making  just isn't your thing. There must be some easier way, you ask—and there is.

Introducing the Spear Thrower or Atlatl

Like, most practical; or even feasible weapons;The Atlatl or spear thrower did not originate in any of the Americas. This ancient (probably dating back to Neanderthal man) spear thrower is now often called an ATLATL-supposedly an Aztec word meaning far. You can think of throwing a spear (something that normally is the last thing you should want to do) far, far, very far. In most countries, a dart or spear thrower is referred to as the great/great /great grandfather of the bow and arrow; it is also, probably, the very first "reloadable weapon to be developed by man ( there is some debate as to which came first the dart thrower or the sling).

 Regardless of the name you may choose to call it by this weapon system is a common denominator for human worldwide. Evidence from archaeological digs and cave hieroglyphics has been found on every continent except Antarctica. There are, of course, many styles and variations, of spear thrower, depending on what is being hunted, where on the planet the hunt is “happening” who is hunting, and the materials readily available for constructing this simple but at the same time, complex hunting tool. 

The very simple spear thrower, illustrated above, allows the user to more than double the power and range of a normal throw. The actual thrower has a point that fits into a notch in the end of the dart/spear that is held in place by the user. Although not really necessary dart/spear points of antler, bark, horn, stone or wood may be added.
 Length of the spear thrower will vary but is usually about the length of the users arm. Ultimately, it comes down to a stick, or tree branch, and a lightweight spear The spear or dart need not  have feather flights. At some point, long ago someone (probably a female mate or half grown off-spring) realized that far too many hunters were being killed, or seriously injured, in the pursuit of Big Game animals. At about the same time the hunters themselves got tired of dragging around a travois loaded down with a lot of basically useless "Hollywood" or "macho type" garbage. In order to hunt more efficiently-without having to unnecessarily expend a lot of valuable energy, they came up with, probably, the world’s first , shoot-able, throw-able, re-loadable, weapon. Over time, designs were adjusted, refined and eventually the crafting and fashioning of spear throwers became the “trade” of very skilled professionals .   
 Remember, just like any other tool;  spear/dart throwers require a lot of practice before you will be able to use them proficiently.
These tools are not toys. You do not use them to play "Macho Man"-they are meant to kill and to kill efficiently. 
Don't break any windows-don't spear a close friend; or kill a member of your own family when using any such tool-obey the rules of safety-and always try to maintain-at least a little-sanity 

©Al (Alex, Alexander) D Girvan-2012. All rights reserved.

Fish Spears and Spearing Fish

SPEAR OR CATCH FISH

Survival-Fish Spears and Spearing Fish

Have you ever tried it, in a creek, pond, or even using a spear f fishing targets? Like anything you are likely face in a REAL WORLD SURVIVAL SITUATION, spearing fish can be a real challenge, especially if you have absolutely no idea of what to do; or why you do it. Successful spear fishing depends on the width and depth of the water, the size of the fish you wish to spear, your patience and fishing skills, and to some much smaller extent the type of spear head. One thing that really pisses me off about some SURVIVAL MANUELS, SURVIVAL VIDEOS, SURVIVAL TRAINING SITES try to claim that it is easy to do—but only if you first purchase THEIR very expensive, and usually very poorly designed, (completely unsuitable in a real –life survival situation), HIGH TECH survival equipment—enough that you would need a truck or at least a small trailer in order to haul it, the next time you go traipsing off into the back woods, on your PREARRANGED, FULLY ORGANIZED, OFTEN FULLY EQUIPPED, SURVIVAL, ADVENTURE, EXCURSION. Military “field packs”, including ALL your available emergency equipment, weigh about sixty pounds (some will claim a hundred) and you have to carry them on your person—at all times--this is your survival kit.  What you have is what you get. What makes matters worse is that none of these manuals, videos, training sites really teach you any techniques in how to practice and become proficient at it. IT IS VERY, VERY, DIFFICULT—ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE TO PRACTICE A REAL LIFE SURVIVAL SITUATION.

Anyway, getting back to how to spear fish--yep, you need a fairly long sturdy stick, one that is not too thick, too thin, too crooked; and then you need to sharpen one end of the stick to a point. Don’t make it too pointed or too thin or it will break too easily; in which case you will be spending too much valuable time and energy re-sharpening it.

NOTES:

1.       Never throw your fishing spear (no lance or spear should ever be thrown unless absolutely necessary; or unless you have a tether line attached.); if you do, you will probably lose it, especially if you are attempting to spear in swift flowing Canadian waters (because water is shallow; or has formed a pool, or eddy, does NOT mean no swift flowing current--there probably is). Spear fishing requires a smooth very quick, fling/stab/forward thrust.

2.       Multiple spear points work best because they’ll give you a greater chance of actually spearing a fish.

3.       Points made out of antler, bone, metal, or even glass or stone (because glass and stone stone are brittle, they will tend to break easily, in the event that you hit something unintended—like a rock or cast off bottle) may be attached; but of course, only if you are lucky enough to have found or otherwise obtained some.

Of course, the best place to spear fish is where there are at least some fish; where you see fish swimming, and WHERE THE FISH YOU DO SEE ARE ALREADY RESTRICTED BY SHALLOW WATER, —you just are NOT going to have any success, if you try spear fishing in deep, wide bodies of water. When attempting to spear-fish, it’s always best to be on shore, instead on standing in the water, for better, SAFER footing, and to avoid casting your shadow in the water, which will scare the fish away (does not apply to fish traps).

Preferably, you want to take a kneeing position on shore (reduce distance); and then all you have to do is wait until a fish comes with in your thrusting range. When you do get the opportunity to make a spear thrust, aim slightly below the fish (refraction)--you will also want to aim slightly ahead of the fish on order to counteract the inevitable quick forward flash in the fish’s movement.  If at all possible, your spear should already be beneath the surface of the water BEFORE YOU THRUST. As with any skill, the only way you are ever really going to learn is through much practice of

 THE OLD, LONG PROVEN, SUCESSFUL, TECHNIQUES.

One final note: If you are really serious about catching some; or having fish for dinner; I strongly suggest that you read my post on how to construct a gill net; either that; or use a line set, with several short lines, and baited hooks, attached.

©Al (Alex, Alexander) D. Girvan 2012-All rights reserved.

The Production of Arrows AND Arrow Shafts

 Be it in North American or the rest of the world, it is commonly believed that arrow shafts were either made out of bulrushes, cat-tails, reeds; or out of shoots, such as dogwood, wild rose, ash, birch, choke-cherry, and willow; and, I suppose that they were--on rare occasion. But this was a very inefficient, labour, and time consuming method of obtaining what infallibly turned out to be very inferior, unreliable, shaft material.
 If, or when, using this, or any other method; the shoots, or sticks, of shaft wood still had to be shaved, sanded, heat and pressure straightened. 
Tools, made of bone, or sandstone, were used to shape, size, and straighten the shaft wood, making dowelling.
While the North American native did not fall many trees they did fall some; as evidenced by their totem poles. They also cut and split small logs. It was, actually, through a process very similar to producing cedar shakes or splitting kindling that most arrow shafts were produced. The Native North Americans may have been primitive, the last truly stone age people on earth but they were definitely not stupid.

Reeds from common reed grasses were also used with some frequency throughout the Americas with the exception of the Plains where reeds did not grow.

However and where ever obtained; the shaft wood must always be: shaved, sanded and or heat and pressure straightened. 

Because they are hollow light and lack spine, reed-shaft arrows typically have a wooden fore-shaft and a wooden plug for the nock end of the arrows. If a fore-shaft was used, it could be glued to the main shaft, tied with sinew, or fit closely enough to not need glue or sinew.

Points were made of antler, bark, bone, horn, leather, or wood and were attached to the arrow shafts with a variety of methods. Most frequently, the arrow shaft would have a slit cut unto one end to accept the point. Cord or sinew would then be wrapped around the shaft to pinch the slit closed.

Fletching balances the weight of the arrowhead to prevent the arrows from tumbling end over end in flight. When fletched properly an arrow will spin in a spiral, producing the ideal trajectory.

When making field expedient arrows it is not always necessary to fletch them, simply cut thin shavings off the shaft and leave them attached at one end, when bent up in flight these should act as make-sift and easy to construct flights. Do not let them run across your hand.
The bow conveys power to the arrow through the bowstring. The amount of power is equal to the strength required to bend the bow into an arc when the arrow is drawn to its ful length. If the bow is stiff (and if it doesn't break), the amount or force can be great. Bows ar described in terms of pounds of pull necessary to bend the bow to the full length of the arrow.
The force is a constant for each bow, reflecting its stiffness and the length of pull appropriate far a particular length of arrow. Since force is constant, if mass increases, acceleration must decrease. If you have a heavy (solid-shaft) arrow, the mass is relatively great, and the acceleration imparted by the bow string will be less than if you have a light (cane) arrow. With the same bow (and as long as the arrows are the same length), a cane arrow will fly faster and farther than a  solid arrow. However, when the arrow hits its target, both arrows will impact with the same force, which is determined by the quality of the bow. If a hunter's arrows are bouncing off the target rather than penetrating, it's because the bow is too light rather than because the arrows are "dull". When a hunter has a "good bow", he selects a heavy or light arrow depending on how close he can get to the prey without scaring it away. Heavy arrows are best for short distances, cane arrows are best for long distances.

© Al (Alex Alexander) D Girvan 2012 All rights reserved.

HOW TO MAKE: A NORTH AMERICAN NATIVE, TYPE BOW

AND THE ARROWS TO GO WITH IT.

For various reasons, as explained in some of my older posts, a bow and arrows is not really a practical; or wise, choice of tools for use in bush-craft, or disaster survival situations, and could very likely be detrimental to your chances of survival. 

This having been said, there will always be those who insist on trying to fashion one; so here's how.

It  is just an illustration; but none the less, the bow, shown in the illustration;

 would undoubtedly break with first use. 
 For sure, the arrow will not travel to any where near the intended target:

 to find out why;
 first, observe the illustration;
 (including not only wood grain; but the hand, and arrow, positions) more closely;
 then-read more.

MISCONCEPTIONS

There are many, many, many misconceptions not only about how Native North and Central and South Americans made their bows and arrows; but how they used them as well. Many of these derive from television “Reality Survival” programs and “John Wayne Westerns; that were and are; more concerned with producing props and scripts for the shows cheaply; and quickly; than with striving for historical accuracy, reality, or even common sense. Often the bows and arrows shown have been made of fibreglass with high-tension cloth rope or string and painted to look like wood. These differ significantly in form, function, and type, from true native bows. Still other images have been of what is commonly known as a “composite bow”, which is a bow, made from several flat layers of different woods and materials. The absence of steel tools in Native, North American, culture made this type of bow, or arrow, impossible for them to create.

REMEMBER

Unlike in other areas of the world; Native North American’s did not begin using bow and arrow technology until about 1,500 years ago. Prior to the advent of the bow and arrow, the spear thrower or atlatl (an Aztec word) was commonly used. Most “arrowheads” seen in museums or that are found today which are longer than 1 inch were really points for the long, spear-length atlatl shafts. What are now often referred to as “bird-points”, were the true arrowheads. They were used for almost everything from hunting bison (when and where this was ever possible) and rabbits to occasional warfare. The bows used by natives of the AMERICAS were short, notably inaccurate, and not very powerful. As is true, almost, anywhere that arrows were, or are, used to hunt birds; the arrows used were,and are usually, blunt, or ball tipped.

Bows then were much different from the large and elaborate compound hunting bows used today. They were much, much, lighter. Also, the English style longbow didn't lend itself to the realities facing hunters on the American Continents; where dense forest, or jungle, had to be threaded through and a cumbersomely long bow would get hung up in vines and brush! So, a short stout bow was used (or so it is commonly believed), pretty much by all tribes. While it was not near as powerful, and didn't shoot as far as a long bow, that was not the idea. The aboriginal hunters mostly relied on stealth, tracking skills patience and what they had learned from “THE CREATOR”Nature to get close to their quarry. Even so it usually took more than one-sometimes many-arrows to make a kill.

Even a relatively short bow (4 to 5 feet) is capable of delivering an arrow quite a distance. The power of a bow isn't only in its length, however, but its power is really in its stiffness (one reason not to use green wood when fashioning a bow). After an archer learns the basic skills with a light bow, they can then make a longer stiffer, more powerful, bow for shooting larger targets at greater distances.

A flatbow is a bow with non-recurved, flat, relatively wide limbs that are approximately rectangular in cross-section. Because the limbs are relatively wide, thickness (of flatbows) will usually begin narrow(thin) and become deeper at the handle, with a rounded, non-bending, handle for easier grip. This design differs from that of a longbow, which has rounded limbs that are circular or D shaped in cross-section, and is usually widest at the handle Contrary to common belief and actual  intent, in reality; a flatbow (the bow most commonly used by natives anywhere in the Americas) is, usually, just as long as a longbow. Traditional flatbows are usually wooden selfbows (bows made of one solid piece of wood), though laminated and composite flatbows have been made in ancient, and modern, times.

The flatbow is a superior bow design for almost all materials because the stress is more evenly spread out than with rounded limb sections. A bow limb is essentially a flexed beam undergoing bending, and in any flexed beam the farther from the neutral axis (line in the middle of the flexing beam which is not under tension or compression) the more stress there is within the material. When a limb is rounded, as in a longbow, some material "sticks out" farther from the neutral axis, and thus is put under greater stress. In a flatbow, the flat belly and back ensures that all of the most highly strained material is a uniform distance from the neutral axis, spreading the load over a wider limb, minimizing stress and making weaker woods far less likely to fail (break or become permanently bent and lose the springiness needed in a bow).

 Only particularly resilient timbers can make an effective and powerful wooden longbow. For the above reasons, the lashed/tied together composite"Survival Bows", so often seen, or described, in the many articles and videos dealing with the subject; are  useless; except that is, possibly as kindling. 

Disadvantages of a rectangular cross-section: Compared to a narrow, rounded longbow design, the bowyer needs to start with a wider stave, take more time to achieve an approximately-rectangular cross-section, and may need to cut through growth rings on the back of the bow which can cause breakage.

HOW TO MAKE A BOW

Native North Americans used all kinds of wood and other materials for bows, but some wood is better than others for the finest bows. Generally speaking, do not use Western Larch (more commonly called Tamarack by older generation Canadians). It makes a very good fence post; but because in tends to have a twisting grain it is not really suitable for the fashioning of a bow.

Bows were usually made with the best wood that was locally available in their territory, but some woods had such a good reputation for bows that people would trade bow wood over hundreds of miles. One such wood is Osage Orange. Osage orange is a hardwood that becomes bright orange in colour when its bark is peeled, and it is stiff and strong. Hickory was a favourite of my grandfather. Ash, birch, cedar, elm, oak, yew, black locust, juniper, willow, choke-cherry, Saskatoon and other local woods can be also be used for bows, although they may be more fragile. Wapiti antlers, mountain sheep horn, bison horn, and ribs, and caribou antler also were used when and where available.

STEPS

The selection of the right piece of wood helps in the creation of the bow, including length, straightness, grain (lack of side branches.

Look for a shoot, or limb; that is nearly straight for 4 to 5 feet in length and is about 1 to 11/2 inches in diameter. You will find that this is the hardest part about making a bow. Side twigs are OK  but side branches are not, since they distort the grain of the limb and weaken the wood. In some cases, (actually this is usually; the most efficient, and practical, technique) you can cut a thicker limb, or log, with side branches; if all the side branches are on one side. The thicker limb or log can then be split down the middle, using an axe, or wedge; and the side, or sides, without the branches can be used to fashion the bow. Of course, in any case, the wood has to be dried and seasoned.

If you have the time available there is method; which surprisingly, was used on occasion by most tribal peoples of the world; including those of the three Americas.

In Modern Times It Is Still Used By Some Weekend Survivors And Bushcrafters-Providing They Have Available Either A Large Work Shop Or Have Found A “Survival Location Where Some Other “Survivor” Has Previously Hauled In A Semi Trailer Full Of Equipment.

Flatbow Making-Starting From a Fallen Tree or log.

Ash wood is flexible and good for bows but only as a flatbow, as this style allows for more flexibility in the bow in comparison to the ‘D’ section profile of a so called longbow.

Tree Felling

The ideal tree should have a section as straight as possible from the ground to about 7 feet with no side branches. This is the area you will cut the stave or staves from.

1.    A line is scored in the bark down to the wood firstly. This helps with guiding the splitting of the log.

2.    An axe-or in primitive times, a stone wedge- is then driven into the scored line to start the split. Note the axe or wedge should be kept at 90 degrees to the person hammering it in. This maintains a safe position for the worker.

3.    The first axe is followed by a second axe or wedge, to widen the split.

4.    As other wedges are driven deeper into the split; the previous ones can be removed, and used again.

5.    An axe can also be used to cut the wood fibres not split by the wedges.

6.    Once the log has been split once the process is repeated again and again until you have the staves you require. In actual reality, it through theemployment of this general method that most arrow shafts were produced.

7.    Being very careful to only remove the outer and inner bark and not touch any of the wood; use a draw knife shave off the bark of the stave.

8.    The wood found just under the bark is the most flexible part of the bow and will form the back of the bow. Apart from light sanding this area of the bow will not be touched.

9.    Use a string to mark out a centre line, down the length of the stave; then mark out the shape of the bow.

10. Saw stop cuts all along the stave. These cuts help when chopping out the excess wood. As a piece of wood is cut out with the axe the stop cut stops a split running through the whole bow so that you only cut out the wood you want.

11. Once the top profile is cut out the side profile needs to be cut out.

12. Again using stop cuts the stave was roughed out, to the basic shape of the bow.

13. At this point the bow should be left to season for a about a month; one week in your well-equipped garage or work shop, and for three weeks in a cool spot in your favourite  survival cave, house, survival shelter, or tent. This should allow the wood to season enough to start the fine work.

14. The bow should be clamped down for the fine work. Begin by using a draw knife; then, move onto a spoke shave. Having the bow clamped will allow you to use the tools safely and with precision.

15. For very fine shaving, use a cabinet scraper. Tested the bows flexibility by floor tillering it- this involves pushing down on each limb to test the flexibility and then comparing the flexibility of each limb. Look for an even flexibility in each limb.

16. Next, carve out the knocks on each limb, using a round wood file. The knock should be at an angle of about 45 degrees and deep enough so that the string does not slip off.

17. Finally sand the knock so that the edges don’t abrade the string. Use some strong nylon string at first. One end of the string is tied on with an overhand loop and the other end with a timber hitch. At this stage the bow should not be put under any tension, by the string; so that the bow can be trained to bend in increments by using the upright tiller(putting the bow under too much tension will lead quite quickly to it snapping or cracking).Placed the bow on the tiller and in increments slowly bend it to view the curve on each limb.

18. After viewing; return to the workbench, to scrape wood from areas of stiffness using the cabinet scrape, or spoke shave.

19. Final brace about six inches;; tillering is now complete, with evenly curved limbs-time to take the first shot-provided you have done everything correctly, the bow should not break, and you might even manage to hit the target.

20. Your bow will still have to be finished with some kind of preservative.

Here are a few other things to consider when selecting parts for your bow and your arrows.

The bow and the arrows form a complete technology. Each element must be balanced in proportion to the others and to the user to make an effective tool. The bow acts as a pair of springs connected by the grip or handle. As the string is pulled the material on the inside or belly of the bow limbs compresses, while the outside or back is stretched and is placed under tension. This action stores the energy used to draw the string back. When the string is released, the limbs quickly return to their state of rest and release the energy stored by drawing the string. Therefore, the power of a bow is measured in terms of draw weight.

The height and strength of the archer determines the ideal draw weight of the bow. A combination of the length of draw and the draw weight of the bow denotes the cast (propelling force) of the bow.

The draw weight of the bow also determines the weight and diameter of the arrow shaft. Even a bow with a high draw weight can only throw an arrow so far. If the arrow is too heavy, it will not fly far or fast enough to be very useful. A shaft that is too thick or too thin will also lead to problems. It must compress enough to bend around the bow staff as it is launched by the string. If it does not bend, the arrow flies off target. If it bends too much, it will wobble (reducing the striking force) or even shatter.

The length of the draw is also determined by the body of the archer, determines the length of the arrow. The maximum cast of the bow determines the maximum weight of the point. This is how we know that certain “arrow heads cannot really have been used on an arrow, at least not to any good effect.

1.       Find a piece of dry, seasoned, but not grey and cracking hardwood. This piece of wood should be somewhat flexible.

2.       Try to get a piece of wood that curves enough so that when you release arrows, the string doesn't slap the side of your wrist (which can be very painful).

3.       Green wood can be used but only is absolutely necessary. Just was when building a tip-up snare; it should normally be avoided because it does not provide the same power as dry wood. If using green wood, try for pine. It is the easiest to cut, and clean. Also, if using green wood, skin it and soak it in hot water. This will help the bow to bend. If it is green wood once you bend it, you can smoke it over a fire to dry it; just don’t hold it so close that is burns or scorches.

4.       Determine the natural curve of the stick. Every piece of natural wood will have a curve or warp, no matter how slight. As you construct the bow, be mindful of the curve.

5.       Shape the bow. Ideally, you will want the bow to be strong (and hence thicker) in the centre.

6.       The piece of wood that you select probably will be thicker at one end than the other. Begin at the thinner end, trimming off side twigs and whittling off the bark. 

 When shaping the bow, make sure to shave wood of the inside of the curve (belly) of the bow only. Otherwise, the bow, most likely, will break on the first use.

Don’t cut into the wood very deeply, because any notches into the wood will create weak spots, which in turn can cause the bow to break…Something you do not want to happen.

7.       When the bark and twigs are all removed for the entire length of the limb, you have a blank or “bow staff”. 

 Locate the centre of the bow staff, and allow a six-inch space for the handgrip (this will be the thickest part of the finished bow). The thinner end of the bow staff should be shaped (whittled) first , because there is less wood to remove (DO NOT WHITTLE THE BACK OF THE BOW OR STAFF)and it will serve as the “model/template” for the reduction of wood in the thicker end of the staff. The thickness of each bow end should taper smoothly and continuously from the handgrip to the tip, but the tip needs to be thick enough to hold a notch for the bow string without breaking. A typical thickness will be ¾ to 1 inch at the handgrip to ¼ inch at the tip. The cross section through the bow end should be more and more like a flattened oval as you move away from the rounded oval of the handgrip.

8.       Once both ends have been whittled into their tapers, cut notches to hold the bow string; use your “ stock-man”, folding belt, or sheath knife. Cut the notches about 1 to 2 inches from each end of the bow. The notches should be in the shape of a half-moon on the back of the bow.

9.       The bowstring will be attached (tied, using a slipknot) permanently to one end while the other end should have notches whittled so that the bowstring loop can be slipped on and off. This means that the notch must hold the loop securely in place while the bow is bent for use and the string tight. Tightly wrap the bow with a wet strip of gut, leather, or raw hide, if available, around the centre two thirds of the bow (before stringing) and let it dry naturally. This will give your bow extra strength to resist breakage and should allow you to project arrows at a greater velocity. You can also carve a notch into the grip part of the bow to rest your arrows on and keep them from wobbling once the bow is pulled back.

10.   SELECT A BOW STRING. The string can be made of rawhide, sinew, thin nylon rope, hemp or linen cord, fishing line; strands of cotton, ordinary cotton twine, vines, or even snare wire. If you are lost in the bush or wilderness it may be very difficult to find a suitable string, and you may need to try a variety of materials before you find one that has the necessary strength. The string should not be stretchy, as the power comes from the bow, not the string. Bow strings most frequently used by the North American Native were made of sinew (animal back or leg tendon), rawhide or gut. Occasionally, although they are a lot more labour intensive and require much more skill to produce; plant fibres such as inner bark of basswood, slippery elm, or cherry trees were used, Nettles, milkweed, and dog-bane are also suitable fibres. Well-made plant fibre strings are far superior to string made from animal fibres because it holds the most weight while resisting stretching and remains strong in damp conditions.        
      When testing draw weight, never "dry fire" or let go of the bowstring without an arrow on it. Such practice can cause the bow to break. 
     When the bow is not in use, the bowstring should be unstrung to save the bow from fatigue. The bow will hold its strength a lot longer. Also, as the wood of the bow dries out, the wood can become fragile and subject to breakage if pulled too far. Native North Americans would rub animal fat into their bows to keep them from drying out. You can do the same with any lanolin based hand cream. you should do this at least once a  month.

©Al (Alex-Alexander) D Girvan 2012 All rights reserved.