SURVIVAL AND BUSHCRAFT TECHNIQUES, "DOWN NOT OUT".: Trigger Assemblies

Showing posts with label Trigger Assemblies. Show all posts

Monday, 12 March 2012

THE FAMOUS/INFAMOUS FIGURE-4 DEAD FALL, SNARE TRIGGER ASSEMBLY.

MOST STUDENTS, TAKING BUSHCRAFT/SURVIVAL COURSES, WILL HAVE NOTHING BUT PROBLEMS, WHEN TRYING TO CONSTRUCT THE FIGURE- 4 TRIGGER. THE PROBLEMS WERE CREATED WHEN SOMEONE, AT SOMETIME, DECIDED TO GET "ARTISTIC" AND SHOW THEIR GREAT INGENUITY. BEST, KEEP IT SIMPLE.

SUGGESTION: SHORTEN THE EXISTING UPRIGHT SUPPORT STAKE ADD AN ANOTHER;TO BE LOCATED TO THE EXTREME LEFT ACCORDING TO DIAGRAM. THEN, KEEP WHAT IS SHOWN AS A DIAGONAL RELEASE STICK AS VERTICAL AS POSSIBLE.

Deadfalls are usually designed or should I say intended for the catching of smaller carnivorous/omnivorous animals but even so they require the implementation of considerable weight, as such animals are very resilient and their legs will act as shock absorbers. The environmental terrain where they live, in Canada, is usually covered with soft moss or tundra.

The basic principle of the Figure-4 trigger, how it is supposed

to work:

A log, or logs, a Wily Coyote sized rock, or other weight rests on the end of the diagonal stick. This supplies downward pressure to the end of that stick.

The diagonal stick rests on and pivots on the vertical stick. This keeps the diagonal stick from slipping away to the left.
The diagonal stick is also held in place by having the end rest in a notch on the horizontal stick. Obviously, the pressure of the diagonal stick is pulling the horizontal stick towards the left.
The horizontal stick is held in place by notches in both it and the vertical stick. These notches are the actual trigger mechanism. Note: the slight undercut given the notch, in the horizontal stick, intended to hold the diagonal stick in position.
The bait is placed at the end of the horizontal stick, to the right, directly under the weight.
When the animal takes the bait at the end of the horizontal stick the trigger is released. The horizontal stick falls to the ground, and the diagonal stick flips upwards and out in a counter-clockwise arc. This allows the weight to come crashing down on the animal, supposedly killing it instantly.

NOTE: For deadfalls, the vertical stick should be resting on a hard surface, such as a flat rock. Otherwise it will dig into the ground and not fall out of the way when the trap is triggered--the dead fall weight will again come to rest on the vertical stick and will not come "crashing" down.
SECOND NOTE: It is a good practice to put something hard on the ground (a rock) under the whole trap; otherwise, the weight may not kill the animal, only pressing it into the soft ground.
But, the best laid plans of mice and men oft times go afoul. The figure-4 triggering device looks fancy--on paper.
It may even work--during practice--when you are constructing the device out of machined dowelling, or twigs, and also using very light weights.
In actual field use, the chances are very much stacked, that it will not function; for the following reasons.

The downward pressure that the weight supplies directly to the diagonal stick will also produce an upward lifting force at the other end-the end that-in order for this trigger to work-- has to fit in, and STAY in, that notch in the horizontal stick-which it will, of course, not do, especially if the pole is a mere twig and it is fashioned from green wood which will tend to bend and separate easily.
To complicate the problem; there will also probably be a diagonally, down pushing force exerted on the vertical stick. This force will tend to topple the vertical stick prematurely.
Actually, as it is shown in any and all photos, or diagrams, I have ever seen of the figure 4 triggering device, there is absolutely--and I do mean absolutely, nothing; other than a single small notch, that, in order to have any possibly of supporting a weight heavy enough to kill any animal-except perhaps-a mouse, or lemming, has to be cut with exact precision-holding the horizontal stick in place; the diagonal stick is usually not tied to it in any way(the one exception being when cordage is used instead of a diagonal pole).
Then too, I have never seen an illustration or photograph in which the support sticks themselves were anywhere near strong enough to support a weight heavy enough to kill a beaver, porcupine, or even a large hare or rabbit (all of which are very unlikely to take any bait-except perhaps a salt lick-anyway).
In order for this trigger to hold together, the way the trigger sticks are cut, the shape, weight, and placement of the dead-weight; everything about the fabrication has to be very precise. Even so. it is apt to be so delicate that a stiff breeze will trigger it-if indeed, it can be triggered at all-or by anything lighter than an elephant.
My advice here: use my above suggestion; which is also the trigger I describe in my post on the simple snare; it is far less complicated and will be far more reliable.

Monday, 10 October 2011

TWO TIP-UP SNARES

Snare traps are, reportedly, being set in Anaheim, California, United States of the Americas, neighbourhoods; in order to catch coyotes that are no longer welcome to live in their OWN, NATIVE, environment.

When triggered, these Baited Snares (Garrets)—composed of steel, cable or wire—jerk, tightly, around the victims—like all true Garrets, easily slicing through flesh— neck, face, body, or limb.

Deadfalls, snares, and ALL other traps, ARE NOT toys.

They are NOT to be used for Week-end Survival Games;

or, by some, brainless, Criminal, JACKASS; that, just happens, to be in an EVIL, macho, killing, mood.

They ARE deadly.

The animal, pictured, might just as easily be a much loved family pet;

or, worse, A CHILD.

ALTHOUGH I HAVE HEARD OF EVEN EXPERIENCED TRAPPERS SHOOTING OR EVEN EMPLOYING A DEADFALL TO KILL A SKUNK; I CAN NOT UNDERSTAND THEIR THINKING; WHY THEY WOULD EVEN CONSIDER DOING SO.

IT IS VIRTUALLY ONLY BY USING A POP-UP OR TIP-UP SNARE THAT YOU CAN CATCH, AND/OR KILL, A SKUNK OR ANY MEMBER OF THE MUSTELIDAE FAMILY WITHOUT HAVING THEM SPRAY AND THUS CONTAMINATE THE ENTIRE AREA.

It must be noted these “bush craft survival tools” are not toys for macho types; or for kids; who never grew up. All are very, very, dangerous-can be dangerous to human life or detrimental to survival. All are illegal to use in Canada and or other CIVILIZED counties, except in extreme emergency. All must be clearly marked during the period of use; and must be dismantled immediately after the emergency situation is over. IF YOU ARE USING ANY OF THESE TOOLS TO TRAP OR KILL GAME, UNDER THE GUISE OF PRACTISING BUSHCRAFT, YOU COULD, AND SHOULD BE, CHARGED WITH ANIMAL ABUSE, DANGEROUS ACTIVITY-POTENTIALLY CAUSING HUMAN HARM, AND SEVERAL OTHER THINGS UNDER THE FISH AND WILDLIFE ACT.

The trigger, as shown in the above illustration, might work great, if precision crafted; out of metal; but even that is doubtful as it would probably bind , unless it is also well lubricated and free of rust or other corrosion. If made out of wood,(keep it simple)the necessary tip-up/spring pull is going to create enough friction, and the trigger cord allow enough slack movement that this thing will not release. Either that or the pressure will be enough that those; so carefully fitted, little notches, will break off and it will release prematurely.

NOTE: WITH ALL TRIGGERED SNARES AND TRAPS,

YOU MUST MAKE SURE THAT:

YOUR TRIGGER SUPPORT PEGS ARE:

LONG ENOUGH,

DRIVEN IN THE GROUND FAR ENOUGH,

AND ARE STRONG ENOUGH,

TO WITHSTAND

THE CONSTANT PULL

EXERTED BY THE SPRING, TIP-UP

OR WEIGHTED POLE

ACTIVATING/TRIGGERING MECHANISM.

ALSO BE SURE THAT YOU ARE USING

SOME KIND OF RELIABLE SAFETY SUPPORT, OR LINE,

WHEN SETTING THE TRAP;

OTHERWISE--YOU MIGHT NOT APPRECIATE,

WHAT YOU CATCH

THAT IS--IF YOU LIVE.

THE TIP-UP COULD GIVE ENOUGH

POWER SO THAT THE NOOSE ACTS

AS A WIRE GARRET(VIRTUALLY WIRE SAW)

DECAPITATING THE INTENDED PREY--

OR AMPUTATING FINGERS, OR A HAND OF ANYONE;

SETTING THE TRAP CARELESSLY.

If using a green sapling (definitely NOT recommended), lop the sapling of its branches and top. Bend the sapling over, and make a mark on the ground directly under the head of the bent sapling.

This is the place where you will set the triggering for the snare. Cut two notched stakes. These should be sharpened at the point, and bevelled at the head so they will drive easily into the ground.

They must be straight and strong, and preferably cut from dead (seasoned) wood.The moisture, or sap, content of green, freshly cut wood tends to cause the trigger pieces to bind, or even GLUE together.

NOTE: See my post about the simple snare.

Contrary to what is suggested by the above illustration, whenever and wherever possible, tip-ups should be fashioned from dry seasoned poles, and ALL BRANCHES should be REMOVED to prevent catching on surrounding vegetation. A live sapling will soon tend to hold the bent over shape-and trap action will be slow-it does not take long for this to happen.

A much more functionally efficient version is the true teeter-totter tip-up; we are all familiar with teeter-totters and what happens when the weight is suddenly removed from the low end.

I see that Google as AOL is trying it again.

Project Gutenberg's Deadfalls and Snares, by A. R. (Arthur Robert) Harding-published 1905. This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg- PUBLISHED BEFORE 1923 ALL MATERIAL IS PUBLIC DOMAIN-THERE IS NO COPY-RIGHT, NO US OWNERSHIP; AND THE ONLY LEGALLY BINDING RESTRICTIONS ARE AGAINST ANY ARCHIVES, COLLECTIONS, LIBRARIES,AND ORGANIZATIONS SUCH AS AMAZON, AOL, GOOGLE, WIKI, ANY INDIVIDUALS OR PERSONS ATTEMPTING TO IMPOSE RESTRICTIONS AS TO USAGE OR CLAIMING ANY KIND OF OWNERSHIP OR COPY RIGHTS.

All that is needed is a weighted pole and a suitable support of some kind(forked stake, log, rock, or tree branch).
For a triggering device, use the support variation, described in my post on the simple snare. OR, IF YOU STILL INSIST ON USING IT, the trigger shown can be improved, through using seasoned wood and also through shaping the upper lip of the notch in the vertical anchor stake into a slightly blunted V shape.
NOTE THE CRUCIAL DIFFERENCES BETWEEN THE TRIGGERING DEVICE SHOWN FOR THIS "TEETER-TOTTER" TIP-UP' AND THE ONE USED FOR THE VERY INEFFICIENT AND BASICALLY, IMPRACTICAL "GREEN TREE/SAPLING SPRING" SET UP.
A few further suggestions: replace the snare noose with a net, in either the tip-up or treadle type trap. Snares can be either made of twine, or wire. Many fox and lynx snare trappers, in Northern Canada, use relatively thin, brass, or copper, wire. Snares work well in cold weather and if properly constructed are pretty sure catchers. When constructed as I suggest, they are definitely not SURVIVOR/VIDEO GAME, TOYS.

I see that Google as AOL is at it again.

A — Spring pole.

B — Staple. Is driven into tree trunk, as shown.

C — Two small nails driven in tree. STAPLE OR NAILS NEED NOT BE OF METAL,it's just a little easier. if available.

D --Three inch nail head end-NOTICE: which must be above and supported by nail C- down, (Obviously, I did not draw the illustration, 1905 my mother and father were not yet born.) with snare looped at each end with a foot of slack between. As soon as the D — three inch nail is pulled down, it will slip past the nail at top end, when spring pole will instantly take up the slack, also the fox, to staple and does its work-careful examination will show that this is another example of MY SIMPLE TRIGGER(see simple snare).

F — Loop should be 7 inches in diameter and bottom of loop ten inches from the ground.

Further Remarks — The nails should be driven above staple so it will pull straight down to release the snare fastening.

A great many foxes (hares, rabbits, lynx, skunks as well) have been caught in Canada by the plan of the drawing outlined. NOTE HOWEVER, THE VERY POOR TRIGGER DESIGN, AS SHOWN IN THE ILLUSTRATION-- it is afterall a sketched/drawn illustration and it would be rather difficult to show the better, or more complete, version; which would incorporate two vertical pegs and one horizontal rung or stick.

A — the snare, should be made of rabbit wire, four or five strand twisted together. It should be long enough to make a loop about seven inches in diameter when set. Bottom side of snare should be about six inches from the ground. That's what should be, In an actual survival situation, you must use what you've got-WITH YOU-ON YOUR PERSON.

B — is catch to hold down spring pole.

C — is stake.

D — is spring pole. Some, MOSTLY "WEEK END WARRIORS" OR "ADVENTURE GAME SURVIVORS bend down a green, growing sapling for a spring pole, but experienced, CANADIAN TRAPPERS will, almost invariably, (by far the best method, environmentally, functionally and responsibly) cut and trim up a small pole about ten feet long; fasten the big end under a root and bend it down over a crotch, stake or small tree-the action is much, much, faster (there is no need to have near as much bend on the pole as shown, it is just a rough illustration, drawn for convenience nothing else) and the snare is just more reliable.

THE SQUIRREL POLE

Use ONLY when IN EXTREME NEED and even then, because it needs to be checked so often in order to prevent unnecessary animal cruelty; is not really ethical, or practical, to use.
Is just a series of simple snares. Place several wire nooses along the top and sides of the log,pole or tree so that a squirrel trying to go up or down will have to pass through one of them. keep the top and bottom snares away from the top and bottom to prevent the squirrel from getting it's feet on a solid surface. if this happens the squirrel will simply chew through the noose Squirrels are naturally curious and you can catch several squirrels on the same pole.It must be noted these “bush craft survival tools” are not toys for macho types; or for kids; who never grew up. All are very, very, dangerous-can be dangerous to human life or detrimental to survival. All are illegal to use in Canada and or other CIVILIZED counties, except in extreme emergency. All must be clearly marked during the period of use; and must be dismantled immediately after the emergency situation is over. IF YOU ARE USING ANY OF THESE TOOLS TO TRAP OR KILL GAME, UNDER THE GUISE OF PRACTISING BUSHCRAFT, YOU COULD, AND SHOULD BE, CHARGED WITH ANIMAL ABUSE, DANGEROUS ACTIVITY-POTENTIALLY CAUSING HUMAN HARM, AND SEVERAL OTHER THINGS UNDER THE FISH AND WILDLIFE ACT.

THE DEADFALL

THE DEAD-FALL, SHOWN BELOW, HAS BEEN AND IS,

ACTUALLY USED--BY WEEKEND SURVIVORS; OR,

if used by anyone with any actual experience, usually as a practical joke, but occasionally as part, of a pop-up or tip-up snare. When so used, bait is seldom put on the horizontal trigger stick and a bait box or cage is also used.

As a dead-fall, INTENDED TO KILL anything; it is a joke. That type of dead-fall(KILLER) is described at bottom of post. Do Not set one of them up in your driveway or yard.

NOTE THE VERY UNRELIABLE FIGURE 4 TRIGGER ASSEMBLY, ABOVE AND BELOW.

THE DEAD WEIGHT MUST BE HEAVY ENOUGH TO KILL THE INTENDED PREY; WHICH, IN MOST CASES WILL MEAN,IT WILL ALSO KILL A MAN.

Remember the three problems with this type of trigger assembly are:

It is unreliable and probably will not work; the diagonal support will have a tendency to pop out of the notch in the horizontal bait stick.
Or, the horizontal bait/support stick may not (probable) be able to support the weight of the dead- fall and will either pop out of the notch in the vertical support or be forced into the earth, causing it to bind, and rendering the trap absolutely useless.
In order to kill anything larger than a mouse, a dead- has to have considerable weight; it can not be constructed using twigs, as many of those demonstrated on You Tube are. Again, because of exerted pressures, (the 45 degree downward and outward against the horizontal bait stick and the upward against the vertical support stick), it may be very difficult to either keep this assembly in one piece-- or-- to get it to release at all.

NOTE: For much more reliable triggering devices, see my postings on simple and tip-up snares

As is true of baited snares, practical, usable, workable, designed to kill; deadfalls are primarily intended

for fur bearing carnivorous,
or omnivorous animals
and
ARE NOT THE BEST CHOICE
in any survival situation-
WHERE PROCURING FOOD
IS ALWAYS THE MAIN OBJECTIVE.

THEY JUST COULD WORK-

PROVIDED OF COURSE,

THAT YOU SOME HOW MANAGE,

TO RIG A RELIABLE TRIGGER,

AND YOU DO SO WITHOUT,

KILLING---YOURSELF---THESE THINGS ARE NOT TOYS.
A MUCH SAFER, FOR YOU; THE ONE SETTING THE TRAP, MORE RELIABLE DEADFALL IS SHOWN IN THIS IMAGE.
NOTE:THE INFAMOUS FIGURE 4 TRIGGER IS NOT USED,

NOT ONLY DOES THIS TRAP ACTUALLY WORK; IT IS CAPABLE OF CATCHING AND HOLDING OR QUICKLY DISPATCHING FAIRLY LARGE GAME ANIMALS. OUT OF PRACTICALITY, MORE OFTEN THEN BEING USED ON AN OPEN TRAIL AS PICTURED; THIS DEAD FALL IS USED WITH A BAIT BOX OR CAGE WHICH ALLOW ACCESS TO BAIT FROM ONLY ONE DIRECTION AND ONE PLACE (DIAGRAM).

THEY ARE NOT FOR USE IN SURVIVAL "ADVENTURE GAMES"OR BY ANYONE WHO NEEDS TO FEEL "MACHO" OR "SUPERIOR".
SUCH LITTLE BOYS CAN REPLACE
THE LOG
WITH A BOX OR CAGE.
AND SO USE IT TO CATCH BIRDS,
AND/OR SMALL ANIMALS.

REAL VARIATIONS INCLUDE;
THE GUILLOTINE,
IN WHICH SHORT, HEAVY LOGS
ARE STACKED BETWEEN FOUR STAKES OR POSTS,
AND THE DROP DOWN, OR SWING DOWN, GATE.

For efficiency and safety,
Dead falls should always
be used with a bait box, or fence
formed by driving stakes into the ground
and then covering with earth,
branches or other heavy debris so that it can not be climbed over.

They are best constructed using suitable cordage to lift and hold up, the weight and the best triggering device[Observe illustration.Do you see the flaw? If set up exactly as shown in the illustration, this dead fall would not work any better than one equipped with a figure four trigger. The rope supporting the dead log is tied to the vertical trigger stick; which will pull in what direction?The weight of the dead log must be supported by the horizontal trigger stick The vertical stick supports no weight and the bottom portion is place on the other side of the horizontal The prey animal then pushes against the vertical stick causing what to happen?More cumbersome; but the trigger would also work with the horizontal stick tied, securely, to the horizontal stick]. is, once again, the one I describe for the simple/tip-up snare support/trigger

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