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Showing posts with label Survival Skills. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Survival Skills. Show all posts

Tuesday, 25 July 2017

COOKING WITHOUT THE PAN


PLEASE NOTE: The following cooking methods have absolutely nothing to do with barbecue; which is actually a method of disguising the taste of, or preserving food and involves the application of sauces and/or spices.

Pit, Steamed-Baked

Although not identical, this style of cooking is very similar to the Hawaiian Pig Bake, see also, Clam Bake

1. At night when you're camping out, the first thing you do is to dig a pit according to the size of your fish, meat cut, or pig, usually about 3 feet deep and five feet in length. Line pit with stones or bricks, leaving a space in the centre for the fish or meat. Build a fire, using heavier wood and keep it going until it burns right down to coals.

2. Wrap your fish or; meat in a well-washed cloth and seal tightly.

3. Lay over a burlap or gunny sack, take some clay or mud, and slap the mud right over the original cloth; pat down on to cover all sides.

4. Wrap the burlap around and tie with cord. Lift onto coals in the pit, and lay something over it; a piece of canvas an old tarp or any such thing you may have.

5. Fill it with dirt. In the morning take the roast out and enjoy.

No. 2

These two recipes are extremely similar-however they are not the same.

1. At home, for a special treat (if you have the room and it's not against the law). Build a good fire. Make a hole for the meat. Put a few logs on and let them smoulder away.

2. Take a good sized cut; wash it; put on some salt and pepper,

3. To seal in the moisture, wrap the meat in oiled brown paper.

4. Wash a burlap or gunny sack well; rinse; wrap the sack around the paper. This will keep the paper from burning. Then wrap the burlap in heavy aluminium foil.

5. Put a few hot coals in the bottom of the hole; place meat over them and bury with hot ashes.

6. Leave for a minimum of 6 hours, it will be tender and juicy.

More Cooking Without the Pan

Fried Moose Steak

Look for 2 flat rocks. Put the rocks into hot coals, and build a fire right over the rocks.

When you think the rocks are hot enough, brush each one clean; rub one rock with grease, place the steak on it and cover with the other rock, which is also greased; it will sizzle.

A Word of Caution- Do not use rocks which have been lying in or near water. Water-soaked rocks could explode when heated.

Steam Baked Elk of North American Mouse

This method keeps the seasoning and the moisture sealed in and

**This same basic method can be adapted and used for other meats, game, any oily fish, or poultry. **

1. Lard meat, and rub well with garlic and either 4 whole allspice berries or a few crushed juniper berries.

2. Sprinkle with 1 cup red wine and 2 Tbsp. maple syrup or brown sugar. Add 1 large onion, sliced, and 1 or 2 bay leaves.

3. Marinate for several days in the refrigerator, turning frequently.

4. Remove meat and discard marinade.

5. **Take 3 sheets of brown grocery paper and thoroughly saturate them with oil.

6. Lay 1 sheet over the meat

7. Make a thick paste of flour and water and with it, coat the sheet of paper which is laying over the meat (If out doors, clay, mud, or sand can also be used for this purpose).

8. Lay the other 2 sheets over this, and wrap securely around meat. Tie with butcher cord**

9. Bake at 325 F. about 35 minutes to a pound

10. During the last 1/2 hour of cooking, crack open the dried out paste and discard.

11. Baste generously with butter, dust lightly with flour, return to oven and bake until golden brown.

While this method resembles the Boy Scout method of Aluminium Foil cookery it is much more satisfactory (aluminium has been linked to Alzheimer disease)

Steam Baked in Rock Salt

Make a thick paste of rock salt and water and plaster it thickly over a large joint, or bird until completely encased in a crust of salt (the meat will not become salty). Bake the meat as above or in a moderately slow oven (325 F.) for about 22 minutes per pound for a 6-8 pound roast. Take meat from the oven and immediately remove the crust of rock salt with a hammer.

Boiled Venison

Put meat into a hide bag with water and very hot smooth, round rocks.

Or

Put meat, seasonings and water into a container made from bark, canvas, hide or other flammable material and hang directly over the fire. The material will not burn, so long as the flames are kept below the water line.

Wild Goose Steam Baked in Mud:

1. Clean goose and chop off legs and neck; leave feathers on.

2. Salt inside, and tie goose, to hold in wings.

3. Make a big ball of mud around goose, and lay this in a nest of hot coals; build a good- sized fire over it and let cook for 1 hour.

4. To break open casing, insert a knife into it, and bang knife with a rock or log. The feathers will be pulled off with the clay

Fish, or Meat Steam Baked in Clay:

1. Cover fish with a good thick coat of mud or clay.

2. Bury under the ashes of a hot fire, and bake until the clay has hardened. When the casing is broken the scales will come right off.
Note; The tribal peoples of North America, and the early European settlers, also fashioned bake ovens and/or fire-places out of clay--these ovens or fireplaces were used both for cooking and to heat the home or abode. 

Fish, Baked in Newspaper:

1. Take a fresh whole fish (of the Fat or Oily variety) sprinkle inside cavity with salt can be stuffed if desired.

2. If the fish is less fat or oily, brush fish and newspaper with melted fat.

3. Wrap fish in lots of newspaper. Dip the whole package in water, so that paper is thoroughly saturated (if doing this indoors use less paper and do not saturate. Paper will not burn).

4. Bury under hot coals (not a fire) and leave 25-30 minutes per pound of fish. To serve, cut paper open; the skin will come right off with the paper. This is probably the best method of doing a larger fish .in the house.

Fish, Cooked in Parchment

2 lbs. boneless fillets

2 Tbsp. butter

2 Tbsp. onion, minced

1 Tbsp. parsley minced

1 Tbsp. lemon juice

to taste Salt and pepper
Dampen 2 sheets of parchment paper and spread out flat. Brush with oil, or fat. Cut fish into serving pieces and place half the pieces on each sheet of paper. Place 1 teaspoon each of butter and onion on each serving and sprinkle with parsley, lemon juice, salt and pepper. Gather edges of papers and tie securely. Place in boiling water and cook 15 minutes. Remove fish to a hot platter, taking care not to lose any of the juices. Serves 6.

The seashore is the natural place for a clambake, but it is possible to have one at any place where there is a flat open space. Preparations should begin several hours before the time set for the meal.

Clambake (Steamer)

1. Make a circle of flat stones-from 2 to 4 feet in diameter, according to the size of the party- and on this circle build a hot fire of wood. Let this burn 2 to 3 hours.

2. Rake off the fire and cover the hot stones with fresh seaweed.

3. On this lay fresh clams in their shells; also, if desired, oysters, potatoes in the skins, corn in the husk, and any other food that may be steamed.

4. Cover with a thick layer of seaweed, and over all spread a large piece of sail cloth, fastening down the edges with stones.

5. Leave for 2 to 3 hours; remove the cloth and the top layer of seaweed, and rake out the clams and other foods as needed.
The same materials may be cooked in a large kettle with the bottom covered with water and wet cheesecloth between the layers but will lack the fine flavour of the real clambake

Tuesday, 20 June 2017

Giant Hogweed




Heracleum mantegazzianum-Giant Hogweed is a perennial plant and a member of the carrot family. It is a garden ornamental from southwest Asia that is naturalizing in North America and becoming more common in southern and central Ontario. Giant Hogweed has the potential to spread readily and grows along roadsides, ditches and streams. It invades old fields and native habitats such as open woodlands.
Caution: Giant Hogweed is a dangerous weed. Its leaves and stem contain a clear, watery sap that is highly toxic. If you get any of this weed’s sap on your skin, you will notice the following symptoms within 48 hours:
·         Blisters
·         Burns
·         Possible scarring
·         Hypersensitivity to sunlight
What Giant Hogweed Looks Like:
Giant hogweed certainly lives up to its name, growing 3 to 4 metres in height and when in bloom, carries numerous small, white flowers that form an umbrella shape. It looks like a colossal version of Queen Anne's lace, or wild carrot and is often mistaken for angelica or cow parsnip because of its similar leaf pattern. Giant hogweed is most commonly recognised by its flowering stalks, the plant blooms in mid-May through July.
1.      Giant hogweed has a stout, bright green stem that is frequently spotted with dark red and hollow red-spotted leaf stalks that produce sturdy bristles.
2.     The stems grow to more than 2 m high. The hollow stems vary from 3–8 cm (1.2–3.1 in) in diameter, occasionally up to 10 cm (3.9 in).
3.      Each dark red spot on the stem surrounds a hair, and large, coarse white hairs occur at the base of the leaf stalk.
4.     The plant has deeply incised compound leaves which grow up to 1–1.7 m (3 ft 3 in–5 ft 7 in) in width.
5.     Giant hogweed is a biennial or monocarpic perennial, [7]:827 the plants usually begin dying after they have set seed.
6.      It usually flowers in its second year from late spring to midsummer, with numerous white flowers clustered in an umbrella-shaped head that is up to 80 cm (31 in) in diameter across its flat top.
7.      The plant produces 1,500 to 100,000 flattened, 1-centimetre (0.39 in)-long, oval, dry seeds that have a broadly rounded base and broad marginal ridges. Tall dead stems may mark its locations during winter.
If you find the plant in your backyard, the City of Vancouver British Columbia recommends removing it. The weed is a public health hazard and is dangerous to both children and pets.
  How to Get Rid Of Giant Hogweed:
Wear heavy, water-proof gloves, and water-proof coveralls or clothing that leaves no skin exposed.
Wear eye protection.
Remove lower branches to clear a safe path to the main stem.
Remove flower heads when main stem is clear to prevent seed growth and dispersal.
Use a sharp shovel to sever the plant taproot 8 to 12 cm below the surface of the soil.
Put the plant (all leaves, stem and head) in a doubled up garbage bag.
Put the doubled up garbage bag in the garbage.
Do not put giant hogweed in your Green Bin or backyard composter.
What to do if you come in contact with giant hogweed
If You Accidentally Come In Contact With Giant Hogweed Sap, You Should:
Wash the exposed area carefully with soap and water.
Keep the area away from sunlight for at least 48 hours.
Consult a doctor if a rash or blisters develop.

Remember; while there are a number of *safe*plants that look very similar to Giant hogweed such as Cow parsnip, Purple stem angelica, Woodland angelica, Valerian, Lavage, and Queen Anne’s-Lace (also known as Wild carrot). However, unless you are absolutely sure; it’s just not worth taking a chance. The “safe “plants are not as large as a mature Giant hogweed, which grows up to 5.5 metres tall under ideal conditions. The white flower clusters of Giant hogweed resemble those of Queen Anne’s-Lace, but tend to be more widely spaced and can form a flower-head almost one metre wide.

Saturday, 6 February 2016

Canadian Dogs, in Snow, and in Cold Weather.


 Remember any dog is happiest if allowed to live, and grow up, in his owner's home receiving needed love, and companionship. Forcing a pet to live a solitary, outside life leads to boredom. A bored dog is often a problem animal, prone to barking, chewing, or other misdeeds.
 No dog is biologically able to endure the unsheltered cold of our winters except sheepdogs, St. Bernards, Chow Chows and Siberian husky, and these do require shelter.
However, many dogs, except toy breeds, young puppies, dogs with very short hair coats, and sick or old dogs can adapt to outdoor living provided they receive necessary food, care, shelter and attention.

 If a dog is kept outside, special considerations must be made
before purchasing or building a shelter based on the animal's size. If the dog isn't kept in a fenced yard
-- the preferred outdoor situation -- it should have a large run or kennel (at least 4-6' wide and 8-12' long) as well as daily exercise with its owner. If the animal is kept on a chain or similar device (never encouraged as it may make the dog aggressive, but unfortunately in many Canadian, urban locations) it should be at least 12' long, with swivel snaps on both ends to prevent tangling and knotting. A dog should never wear a 'choke chain' except during training. A proper restraint device for normal use would be a suitably-sized leather or nylon collar or harness with its snap-ring and buckle in good repair. Dogs should have a license, rabies tag and microchip at all times.

Special precautions insure the animal can't tangle its chain or rope around trees, posts and yard swings(most dogs have enough intelligence to easily untangle a chain, unless you have created a major obstacle course for them . Make sure the animal can't dig under or climb over fences, fall from porches, stairways or elevated patios. Fire, SPCA, and police departments respond to several such reports of hung and hanging dogs each year.
The shelter can be constructed from any of a wide variety of materials, such as exterior plywood, wooden barrels, hay or straw bales, crates, etch. When finished, the interior must allow the animal to sit, turn around and lay down.
The animal must be able to keep dry and warm on the inside and escape the direct rays of the sun on the outside.
Remember, the shelter is for sleeping and escaping weather extremes, not to live in. The interior should provide a comfortable sleeping area protected from drafts. Don't build it too large or it won't allow the dog's body heat to keep the air surrounding him warm.
Historically, dogs roamed at will on the farm and could find places to 'nest' at night or to rest where it was dry and warm -- in stables, barns or sheds -- where sufficient bedding was available or the dog could burrow in stored hay or straw. Modern dogs depend on their owners to provide necessary and proper shelter.
Acclimate your pet to the outdoors during mild weather so his coat and body adapt to seasonal temperature changes. His coat will become thick enough to withstand even very cold temperatures provided his shelter is dry and wind tight. It is important for outdoor dogs to have a sufficient covering of flesh before and during winter since muscle mass and fat covering provide body insulation. If a dog shows signs of poor condition (such as lack of fleshiness over the hips, ribs and backbone) increase its food intake. During winter, the dog should be fed several small meals rather than one large meal. It needs additional caloric intake (about 15% more food for each 20 degree F. drop in temperature) and a bit more animal fat or vegetable oil to help convert energy to body heat.
The shelter opening should be just large enough to allow the dog to enter and exit and should face away from prevailing winds. Shelters should be caulked and raised off wet and frozen ground and be well-insulated. Bedding should be a thick pad with washable cover, containing cedar chips or shredded newspaper. Check bedding daily to be sure it is dry and clean as a dog's coat and feet bring in moisture.
Check on the dog's food and water frequently during the day to be sure they are not frozen. Ice will slip out readily if you put a thin film of petroleum jelly inside the water bucket each time you fill it. A hollow plastic bowl for water won't crack if frozen.
Dogs respond to cold by shivering and depressing their breathing. Hypothermia (excessive cooling of the body's core) prevention requires adequate shelter, protection against wetness or wind, good physical condition, and adequate food and water. A healthy animal's hair coat, skin, underlying tissue and fat protect against hypothermia.
Most heat loss occurs through radiation, convection, and conduction of heat from body surfaces. Conduction is the transfer of heat by direct contact. Convection is the transfer of heat to the environment via air or water movement over the body. Radiation is heat transfer which occurs if an animal goes into the cold without an adequate hair coat or body condition.
Close off empty spaces between the bottom of the doghouse floor and the ground or concrete to prevent the wind from blowing under the shelter. In the worst weather, a protected light bulb can supply additional warmth to the doghouse interior.
Extremely cold weather can lower an animal's resistance to disease and bring on ailments like pneumonia and arthritis. Check the dog's feet frequently for build ups of snow, ice, salt and chemicals.
A good temporary shelter can consist of a shipping crate, wooden or metal drum or even a large cardboard box. The container should be placed on a solid piece of wood set on bricks. Insulate the box or drum with an old blanket or quilt, then encase the entire shelter in several thicknesses of sturdy garbage bags taped or stapled to the structure. The temporary shelter should be replaced as soon as possible with a suitable, permanent shelter.

The best place for a doghouse or shelter is inside another building, such as a garage or shed. The doghouse might be placed on the shady side of a home during summer and on the sunny side during winter.~~Al (Alex-Alexander) D Girvan.

Wednesday, 27 January 2016

Albertans Have, for Years, Claimed That Alberta is Rat Free; However Both Muskrats and the RD’S KANGAROO RAT are Indigenous to Alberta.


Their homes on the range are becoming rare.

Unique rodent can live without water, but can’t survive with man.
Dipodomys ordii
Status: Vulnerable
Main threat: Agriculture, habitat degradation and fragmentation.
Numbers: Varies with moisture conditions, but overall the population is considered to be low in Canada, no more than a few thousand.
Range and Habitat: Sand dunes and hard packed soils of arid grassland environment of southwestern Alberta and south eastern Saskatchewan.
Size: 50 to 96 grams.
Breeding habits: May produce young once or twice a year, one to six born after gestation of 28 to 30 days.
Lifespan: Can live in captivity for up to seven years, but few in the wild survive beyond a year or two.
Outlook for survival: Fair to good if enough of the sand hills and arid regions of southern Prairies are left undisturbed.


In the fall of 1993, rancher Danny Fieldberg was ploughing some land on his property in southern Alberta when up popped some creatures hopping about like miniature kangaroos.
Fieldberg counted six in all and managed to catch one. He then phoned the local Fish and Wildlife office and asked if someone could come and look. The wildlife officer was initially sceptical. But not only did he end up seeing one of the miniature kangaroos running along a furrow, he concluded after further investigation that the creatures were denning on the property.
To many people, the Ord’s kangaroo rat is a figment of the imagination — something children in southern Alberta conjure up when they encounter large field mice in the barn.
"They’re like a fairy tale," says Fieldberg.
"I remember seeing a few in the bale stacks when I was a kid. But talk to most people down here, they’ll tell you that they don’t exist in southern Alberta."
Fearing he might bring harm to the kangaroo rats, Fieldberg decided to forgo ploughing the 20 hectares of land.
He never thought much about it until a young University of Calgary student came looking to rent his farmhouse some time later. David Gummer had answered a call from a professor who said the Committee on the Status of Endangered Species in Canada was having trouble finding someone to do a status report on the kangaroo rat.
"I got the job because no one else seemed to know anything about them," says Gummer.
"I had just started research on them at the Suffield Military Reserve, and just by coincidence, I went to see Danny about renting his place. I knew nothing at the time about his report to Fish and Wildlife until he told me the story later.
Gummer says that when he grew up in Regina, the only time he ever heard about the kangaroo rat was in school, where the animal’s ability to go without water for most of its life was extolled.

"Most people on the Prairies will tell you they know nothing of the species," he says. "But there’s a reason for that. There are only a few places in south eastern Alberta, and southwestern Saskatchewan, where you can find them. And because they are nocturnal, you’re not likely to see them unless they’re out at night or if they disturb their dens during the day."

Sunday, 24 January 2016

Walking With Bears





As seen by fans of the  hell rasen, or is it raisin, rooten tooten Two Gun Kid.


Run he's about to attack us.






Stories of ferocious attacks by blood-thirsty bears on defenceless hikers make great lead stories in the media. The overwhelming sense conveyed in these stories is that bears are dangerous, mean creatures that are an extreme threat to people in any circumstance. This, of course, is inaccurate at best and unhelpful at worst.

Another commonly held myth is that bears are cuddly creatures that resemble the teddy bears we owned as kids. While there is no doubt that bears have the power to trigger children’s imaginations, it is important that the stories we share with our children be based on facts rather than fantasy.

It is important to dispel both myths – the one based on fear, and the other based on a misplaced belief that bears are tame cuddly animals.


Bears are intelligent and resourceful wild mammals that deserve our respect. A greater knowledge of the behaviour, ecology and habitat needs of bears is crucial if we are to learn to co-exist peacefully with these magnificent creatures.
  • Bears are not about to attack, if standing on hind legs, they are simply wanting a better view.
  • The bear would easily out run you if it were in the mood to attack, A young grizzly is perfectly capable of climbing trees. 
  • Most all bears are omnivorous, the long grizzly bear claws used mainly to tear apart decaying logs in order to get at insect grubs,one of the grizzly's favourite foods.
  • Grizzlies are a lot more fun
     than you would ever suspect-just treat them with due respect-the same respect you might claim for yourself.
Despite apparent differences in size and colour, black bears and grizzly bears are often difficult to tell apart. Why is this important? Every year, black bear hunters kill several grizzly bears by mistake, which can have dire consequences for local grizzly bear populations.
It is extremely important to know which species is which when you can encounter a bear in your community or in the back country.

Black Bears can be black, blue-black, dark brown, brown, cinnamon and even white. Grizzlies, likewise, may range in colour, from black to blond. Although grizzly bears are, on average, significantly larger than black bears, size is not a good indicator of which species is which. Male black bears in Manitoba’s Riding Mountain National Park, for instance, can weigh up to 800 pounds in the fall, and female grizzly bears on Alberta’s Eastern Slopes can weigh as little as 250 pounds in the spring.
The best indicators are the size of the shoulders, the profile of the face and the length of the claws. The grizzly bear has a pronounced shoulder hump, which the black bear lacks. It also has a concave or “dished” facial profile, smaller ears and much larger claws than the black bear. Black bears have a flatter, “Roman-nose” profile, larger ears, no visible shoulder hump and smaller claws.

The best thing people can do for bears; replace misconceptions with facts.

Bears have fascinated humans for millennia. As one of the most adaptable and versatile mammals on earth, their behaviour stirs fear, awe, wonder, and curiosity in us. Unfortunately, there are still many myths surrounding the lives and behaviour of bears that negatively impact our relationships with them.
Stories of ferocious attacks by blood-thirsty bears on defenceless hikers make great lead stories in the media. The overwhelming sense conveyed in these stories is that bears are dangerous, mean creatures that are an extreme threat to people in any circumstance. This, of course, is inaccurate at best and unhelpful at worst.

Another commonly held myth is that bears are cuddly creatures that resemble the teddy bears we owned as kids. While there is no doubt that bears have the power to trigger children’s imaginations, it is important that the stories we share with our children be based on facts rather than fantasy.

It is important to dispel both myths – the one based on fear, and the other based on a misplaced belief that bears are tame cuddly animals.

Bears are intelligent and resourceful wild mammals that deserve our respect. A greater knowledge of the behaviour, ecology and habitat needs of bears is crucial if we are to learn to co-exist peacefully with these magnificent creatures. 

The Myths and the Factual Truths
  
Myth: Bears are unpredictable. 

Fact: Bears use body language and vocalizations to show their intentions. Learning about bear behaviour can be beneficial to people who live or recreate in bear country.

Myth: Bears can’t run down hill. 

Fact: Bears can run more than 60 kilometers an hour, and they can do it up hills, down hills or along a slope. To put that in perspective, that’s 15 m/sec or 50 ft/sec – more than twice as fast as we can run. Further fact, a bear can outrun a racehorse over short distances; but, has little endurance.

Myth: A bear standing on its hind legs is about to charge. 

Fact: Actually, a bear standing on its hind legs is just trying to better identify what has caught its attention. As I’m sure you’ll agree, it’s much easier to see, hear and smell things from a standing position, than down on all fours.

Myth: Once a bear has tasted human food, he won’t eat wild food any more. 

Fact: Bears prefer natural, wild food unless it is difficult to find and human food is too easy to get. Even the worst food-conditioned bears still eat natural foods whenever they’re plentiful. Conflicts usually increase when natural foods run out – a good time to be more vigilant of bear attractants on your property; such as bird feed, pet food, fruit trees/berry bushes, barbecue grease and compost. 

Myth: Bear bells are the best way to avoid a surprise encounter. 

Fact: It’s best to alert bears of your presence by talking loudly, singing songs or breaking sticks. Try to hike in a group, on established trails, during daylight hours.  

Myth: If a bear charges you, climb a tree. 

Fact: Despite all their timidness on the ground, black bears seem to feel more courageous in trees. Bears sometimes kill each other by throwing their opponents out of trees. The bear below has the advantage because the bear above cannot easily hang on and face downward to fight back. Also the lower bear seems confident of these advantages and some bears have even come up trees after people who thought climbing was prudent. Grizzlies, too, can climb – perhaps not as quickly, but they have been known to attack people who climbed trees to escape. 

Myth: Bears are carnivores.

Fact: Although classified in the order carnivora, grizzly and black bears are omnivores because they eat both plants and animals. Only a small percentage of their diet consist of meat, which includes fish, insects and other mammals (the exact percentage is dependant on the type of food is available in their habitat).The only truly carnivorous bear in the entire world is the polar bear and even that is changing, due to human interference.

Myth: Bears have poor eyesight.

Fact: Bears see in colour and have good vision similar to humans. Their night vision is excellent and they are particularly attuned to detecting movement. Like many animals, bears’ eyes have a reflective layer called the tapetum lucidum lining the back of the eyeball. This layer reflects light back through the retina, allowing light to stimulate light-sensitive cells in the retina a second time, thereby improving night vision. This is what gives dogs, cats and many nocturnal animals that distinct, bright green eye shine when they are flashed with a light at night.

Myth: Bears that wander into inhabited areas such as camp-sites, rural towns or cottage communities are dangerous

Fact: It is nearly impossible for a bear to make its daily excursions without walking through someone’s private property. Bears may travel hundreds of kilometres in their search for food. If you have stored your food and garbage properly, the bear will likely move on. Remember, problem bears aren’t born, they’re created through mismanagement of human food and garbage. If bears are hanging around, something is attracting them. Removing the attraction will usually solve the problem. 

Myth: Shooting or relocating a ‘nuisance’ bear will solve the problem

Fact: Removing the bear and not the attractant will only create an opportunity for another bear to move in, creating a vicious cycle of conflict and killing.

Myth: Carrying a rifle is safer than bear pepper spray

Fact: A person’s chance of incurring serious injury from a charging grizzly doubles when bullets are fired versus when bear pepper spray is used (Dr. Stephen Herrero). Those injured defending themselves with bear pepper spray experienced shorter attacks and less severe injuries than those who chose to use firearms (US Fish and Wildlife Service). Click here to read the full report. Bears are actually attracted to pepper spray residue if it is sprayed on the ground or on objects. Never spray it around a tent or on yourself. When used defensively, pepper spray must be sprayed directly in the attacking bear’s eyes or nose. Click here for more information.

Myth12: One of the most dangerous encounters is getting between a mother black bear and her cubs

Fact: Because black bears can tree their cubs, it is rare for them to attack a person in defence of cubs. However, if you are anywhere near a mother grizzly’s cubs, she might very well perceive you as a threat. The chances are good that she will just bluff charge and stop well short of physical contact. You need to do whatever you can to show her that you are not a threat, otherwise the consequences could be tragic. Be quiet, make yourself smaller and retreat.

Myth: People travelling in bear country are often attacked.

Fact: Bear attacks are extremely rare. Bison are the animal that kill most humans -each and every year. Although there are thousands of human-bear encounters every year, only a very few result in personal injury. Most bears will actually retreat before you are even aware of their presence. It is still important, however, to stay alert and know what to do.

Myth: It is dangerous for a woman to go into bear country when menstruating

Fact: Current evidence suggests that menstruation does not increase the likelihood of an attack by a black, or grizzly bear, but tampons are recommended over pads. They may be disposed of by burning and then packing out the remains. 

Myth: Play dead during an attack.

Fact: Playing dead will work if you’re being attacked by a mother grizzly defending her cubs.
But it is the wrong thing to do if you’re being attacked by a predatory bear. If a bear attacks (particularly a black bear) in an offensive manner and physical contact is made, fight for your life. Kick, punch, hit the bear with rocks or sticks or any improvised weapon you can find. 
A predatory bear usually stalks its prey and attacks from behind. It is often silent and the bear does not exhibit any defensive behaviours like huffing or slapping the ground. Its ears may be laid back and its head held low, with its intent focused directly on you. 

Bears are normally shy, retiring animals that have very little desire to interact with humans.Black bears will often live near human settlements, whereas grizzly bears prefer to stay as far away as possible. .
Understanding bear behaviour is an essential part of creating safe environments for both bears and people. More often than not, bear behaviour is misinterpreted. People all too often interpret what a bear does in terms of their own fear. To truly understand bear behaviour, you must interpret bear postures and vocalizations in terms of what the bear fears.
Bears have fascinated humans for millennia. As one of the most adaptable and versatile mammals on earth, their behaviour stirs fear, awe, wonder, and curiosity in us. Unfortunately, there are still many myths surrounding the lives and behaviour of bears that negatively impact our relationships with them.

Always Remember:

Bears are predictable. In fact, bears are usually more predictable than people. If you learn more about bears and how to interpret their behaviour, you will be able to react appropriately when you see them and avoid a negative encounter.

Bears are NOT ferocious. They are NOT mean, or malicious. Bears are normally shy, retiring animals that have very little desire to interact with humans. Unless they are forced to be around humans to be near a food source, they usually choose to avoid us.

Bears, like humans and other animals, have a “critical space” – an area around them that they may defend. Once you have entered a bear’s critical space, you have forced the bear to act – either to run away or be aggressive. The size of the critical space is different for every bear and every situation.

Although black bears and grizzly bears do share some common traits, it’s important to understand the difference in the way they react to perceived threats. Each species has evolved different strategies for survival. Black bears, for instance, are usually less aggressive and more tolerant of people. They often live near human settlements, whereas grizzly bears prefer to stay away from human settlements and are often extirpated from heavily used or populated areas.

Black bears are excellent climbers. When a black bear is threatened he usually runs from the perceived threat or goes up a tree. With cubs out of danger, female black bears don’t have to make vigorous defences that risk potential injury. Although black bears tend to retreat from people, they are still incredibly strong animals that can cause injuries.

Today, grizzly bears tend to live in coastal or mountain forests, but they evolved in treeless habitat that influenced their behavioural response to perceived threats. For instance, they are more likely than black bears to defend themselves when threatened. A black bear’s first line of defence is retreat, but grizzlies, especially sows with cubs, can be very aggressive towards other bears and people they perceive as threats.

While grizzlies especially adults are not good tree climbers, it’s important to note that they can climb trees. However, a mother grizzly will usually aggressively defend her cubs on the ground rather then send them up a tree as a black bear sow will.

Bears are very curious and will inspect odours, noises and objects to determine if they are edible or playable. Standing up on its hind legs allows a bear to get more information from its senses of smell, sight and hearing. It is a sign of curiosity, not aggression.

Bears are usually active from dawn to dusk, but they may be seen any time of day or night. Bears in many places of high human use have become nocturnal in order to avoid people. While others have become habituated to people in order to gain access to their plentiful buffet of improperly stored garbage and other attractants.

Bears can be very social. Bears are often described as asocial when compared to wolves, chimps or lions, but to use the term “asocial” to describe bears is incorrect.
While bears do not live in extended family groups or join in hunts, they can co-exist in very close proximity to each other and in fact form alliances and friendships – some adult bears have even been known to mentor younger unrelated bears; young unrelated adolescents hang around in pairs and even groups (likely because there is strength in numbers). The bears of a region are usually familiar with one another and meetings consist of complex social exchanges. Some bears like each other and other simply don’t tolerate one another in their respective home ranges – not unlike people’s relationships with each other.

Bears are not territorial. Being territorial means keeping other members of your species away from a given area. Wolves and primates(including all the, so called, HUMAN species)are territorial – bears are not. 
Bears,share home ranges. This mutual use of land and resources is a basis for bear social behaviour.

Bears habituate, or become accustomed, to people just like they do other bears. Because plentiful food resources can be localized – salmon in a stream or berries on a mountainside – bears have evolved behaviour that allows them to tolerate each other at close distances. This behaviour is transferred to their relationship with humans. If they are not shot or harassed, bears habituate to people the same way they do to each other.

Bears live in a dominance hierarchy based on age, size and temperament. Mature males are at the top of the hierarchy, and sub-adults and cubs at the bottom. Bears establish and maintain their social position and place in the hierarchy by posturing or acting aggressively. Single females and sub-adult adolescents are almost always submissive to mature males but have a loose hierarchy within their own group.

Bears react to new things in their environment. New objects or situations often frighten bears. Behaviourists call this “strange object response.” After an initial fright, bears will often investigate what alarmed them. This is not an aggressive act and shouldn’t be regarded as one.

Bears are not always aware. Bears, particularly adult brown bears, are not always aware of what is going on around them. A bear following a trail doesn’t always look ahead. He may be distracted by a yummy food source or may not be able to hear over the loud sounds of rushing water or blowing wind. A bear can literally blunder into an unsuspecting person.


Relation Between Humans and Polar Bears:

The interactions between humans and Polar Bears have a long existence. Some of them have been good relationships and others seem to threaten the well being of the other. Early writings and oral stories passed along from generation to generation indicate that many cultures were very respectful of Polar Bears. They understand these large creatures were dominant in their world. They also believed that human souls could take on the form of Polar Bears. Many of their rituals involved honouring the Polar Bears as well.

On the other side of that you have those cultures that found Polar Bears to be a great source of food. They would hunt them and use all but the liver from these animals for their survival. They too were very thankful for the Polar Bear, and only used what they needed to in order to survive.

It wasn’t until much later that Polar Bears and humans started to have huge conflicts. As humans began moving into the territory of these animals, the fights ensued. Humans have always felt they could take over any area they wanted regardless of the natural habitat it would destroy in the process. The Polar Bear was willing to stay and fight for their own survival. Even when they did move to other locations, they often found themselves stepping on the toes of humans in that region too.

The commercial hunting of Polar Bears almost drove them to extinction. The misconception was that there were very powerful bears with a taste for human blood. Therefore they were to be hunted and destroyed so they couldn’t kill humans. With advanced tools and hunting techniques, these efforts were successful at slaughtering huge numbers of them. Many avid hunting fans took part in such expeditions simply for the challenge of killing such a large animal.

Polar Bears have found their way to the list of Endangered Animals.

However, most humans don’t see to care that they are on there. They would like to see such conservation efforts go towards other animals. 
Paranoid humans, especially those with an extreme persecution complex, don’t like the fact that such a predator is out there-- being protected. Yet, we all need to understand that the Polar Bear remains at the top of the food chain. Should they be destroyed that entire pyramid of balance will come crashing down. ~~Al (Alex-Alexander) D Girvan.