Emergency/Survival Style, Trout rig Setups (Lure Rigging)

Although of course, the rigs I describe are used in recreational, sport fishing, and by the Week End Survivor. They will not always be available in a true Emergency/Survival situation; but having the right trout rigs; or at least knowing how to set one up can give you a big advantage-and possibly be enough to save your life. Many will argue that learning how to make trout rigs is not important and about what is the best type of setup is for being the most effective on the water. Here I am going to show you a couple of ways to setup relatively simple trout rigs that WILL ENABLE YOU to land fish and thereby secure a food supply.

First, Let’s Talk About Different Trout Rigs.

If you are going to be fishing in a lake, probably, the best way to setup a trout rig is by using floating bait and a sliding sinker.

This may sound and even look complicated, but I assure you it is not hard-this rig is very similar to the rig most commonly used in Steelhead fishing(a steelhead is after all simply a rainbow trout that has been, at least once, in salt water). Take your fishing like and slip it onto your sinker (you should get one that is shaped similar to an egg). Now, attach that to a barrel swivel. Take that small trout rig and attach it right to 4lb test line giving yourself about 15-28 inches in length. Make sure to use a lightweight egg shaped sinker, which should allow you to cast farther out giving you the best advantage over the fish. There you have it, the simple yet effective trout rig. Easy. Here are a couple of diagrams to show how to set up rigs for most any fresh water fishing.

The first and most common is to use a bobber, or float. You can use a traditional round plastic bobber or an in line (steel head) float. Both work and there isn’t any big advantage in using one over other. The only difference would be the fact that you can fill the in line float bobber with water which allows you to cast further giving you the most precise locations. After casting out, just sit and wait. Not much in the way of entertainment, you just wait for the fish to come and take the bait.

The second and my favourite method is to do the “dance” as some call it. Simply take your rig - fasten it to your line- and cast out. Allow your rig to sink down in the water-reel it in at a slow (not extremely) speed-as you reel in, move the rod from side to side and up and down-allow the jig to lose momentum after each pull. This appears to be more realistic to the fish, and usually yields fantastic results.

 Lure Rigging

If you plan to use a lure, then you have a couple of options. Lures are great for beginners because they rely a lot more on trial, and error, than anything else does. You simply cast out and make sure your lure does not sink too far down. If your lure snags; then, you need to first use lighter weights, and to reel in faster, preventing  it from settling right on the bottom. Lure fishing really is simple. Just tie up your lure, cast off and hope for the best.

Another trout rig is The Night Crawler Rig. It also is super simple, and highly effective. Go to your local store and pick up some bait holder hooks, size 6-10 short shank fishing hooks work best (of course in an emergency, use anything you have or that you are able to somehow fashion.

The recreational, sport or weekend survivor angler will want to pick up a worm inflator. A worm inflator is, essentially, a tool (like a hypodermic needle) that allows you to put a small amount of air into the worm. This allows you to cast it out and not have your bait come to sit on the bottom. This rig is one of my favourites for most any kind of-including trout- fishing and I always seem to do well with it. Attach your worm just under the skin and use your worm inflator as the instructions state (or, use a float and adjust the leader length.

Make sure, if possible (rancid fat, spoiling meat or fish, night crawlers or other worms that have been tightly bagged and left out in the sun for a spell) to in some way scent your bait. It will make a difference and you do not want to be casting out with your bait covered in human scent.

There are two general methods on how to use trout rigs. The first is to cast out past your desired location. Allow the bait to settle, and then slowly move it toward the quarry. The second method is a more traditional one. Cast out and allow the bait to sit in one spot. The idea here is that you want the trout to come and find the bait by using a more natural approach.

WHEN YOU SEE THE LINE START TO SHAKE, GET READY TO SET THE HOOK AND REEL IT IN!

Insider Tip:

A good rule of thumb when it comes to setting trout rigs is to move your lure slower when in colder waters and at a moderate speed at higher temperature. Of course, this is not always true but it should give you some good trout fishing guidance.

Final Thoughts:

– Adjusting the weight and setup of your trout rigs can determine at what speed and how fast your cast will go
– Learn the “dance” and become the envy of some of the most seasoned anglers.
-Remember that the temperature should control how fast or slow you should reel your rig.
-There is no one method that is better than all other methods; always, use a combination of rigs, and techniques, for the best results ©Al (Alex-Alexander) D. Girvan. All rights reserved.

What Is Hypothermia?

Used as a prefix, ‘hypo-’ means ‘under’ or ‘below normal’.  So hypothermia means below normal temperature.    

When you are awake, your body needs to maintain a core temperature of approximately 37oC (98.6oF).  This is sometimes referred to as ‘normothermia’, i.e. your normal temperature.   

Medically, hypothermia is defined as a body core temperature below 35oC (95oF).  This represents a 2oC (3.6oF) drop from normal body core temperature.  This allows for normal temperature fluctuations that occur through a 24 hour period, including temperature changes in your body while you sleep. 

In reality, however, if someone is awake, normally fit and healthy and has a body core temperature of 35oC (95oF) in a remote outdoors setting, they are likely to be in trouble already.  If they still have the energy they may well be shivering violently.  In the outdoors, you need to do something about a falling body core temperature before it gets to this stage.  We need to look for signs and symptoms of hypothermia in our companions.  Learning to recognise the signs and symptoms – and recognise them early – is very important--at any time--not just in disaster/survival situations. ©Al (Alex-Alexander)D Girvan. All rights reserved.

State Symbols of the United States of the Americas, Many Dont Exist in That or any State.

Though we will probably never know the reasons why; the United States of the Americas, from their very conception. has always had great difficulty with the English language, respecting the rights, property, and traditions of other countries, and in thinking globally, or even beyond its own borders, except that is, to steal from others. We do know that without their domineering, and obstinate interference, there would be a lot less world conflict.

Home on the Range, the State song of Kansas, original words by Dr. Brewster Higley, a man who, obviously, knew very little about the animals, or, plants, native to North America. In any case, as per usual, like most people living in that area (now United States of the Americas), he got things, just little, screwed up.

VERSE 1:

Oh, give me a home where the buffalo roam,

Where the deer and the antelope play,

Where seldom is heard a discouraging word

And the sky is not clouded all day.

VERSE 2:

Oh, give me the gale of the Solomon vale,

Where life streams with buoyancy flow,

On the banks of the Beaver, where seldom if ever

Any poisonous herbage doth grow.

Free, wild buffalo and antelope have never existed in the Americas. Much of the native herbage (berries, fruits, vegetables, plants in general) growing along the banks of the Beaver- or any river, stream, brook- anywhere in the Americas is, indeed poisonous, to some degree..

State Animals-Mammals

Alaska state land animal-moose= elk, known round the globe.

Kansas state animal-United States of the Americas buffalo= bison.

Maine state animal-moose= elk, known round the globe.

Texas state animal-Texas Longhorn= Spanish Longhorns, evolved from several ancient BREEDS of cattle, brought to the Americas; by, of course, the Spanish.

Utah state animal- elk=Wapiti, is not an elk, exists only in North America.©Al (Alex-Alexander) D Girvan. All rights reserved.

What Do You Need To Do To Survive.

Your First Priority-The Hierarchy of Survival Needs- is to look after that which is most critically needed-FIRST AID-in that particular situation, at that particular time. the person who is drowning is not apt to be concerned with building a shelter on dry land; and the person who is rapidly bleeding to death needn't be overly concerned about hunting for food or water.

About Shelter or Shelters, Survivor Style.

While in many cases you will not have much time in which to look after all your survival needs, shelter is never your first priority and, probably, not your second, third, or even forth.The most important need for shelter is insulation; between you and the ground, in cold, and, the sun in hot weather—insulation first and breaking the wind second.

If you were to sleep on the cold ground, your body heat would conduct into the ground quickly and you might not wake up because of this rapid heat loss.

If, ground cover is your first shelter consideration, and all you have, available, is a thermal blanket, for example, then wrap in it instead of trying to build a tent out of it for overhead cover. Then add to your shelter with natural cover and/or insulation.

You can spend all day building a roof over your head and then freeze to death lying on the cold ground. Build an elevated bed, if possible, or, at least have ample insulation between you and the ground. Pile up boughs and other vegetation underneath any raised beds to keep the wind from flowing under the platform. Then focus on the roof. In extremely hot weather just reverse the process.

Fire Craft

Fire is may be needed for warmth, water purification, to repel predators and insects, signalling rescue personnel and/or just for morale. Fire might, possibly, be a priority as soon as your shelter is constructed and it is usually a good idea to have one, with ample wood for the night, before it gets dark..

In dry warm climates, anyone can create a fire but it takes a certain skill set and knowledge to start a fire in a wet environment. Unless you have extensive fire starting skills, you would need the means to create fire on your person((smoker or not, always carry a cigarette lighter or mini-torch in your pocket, make sure that it is refillable and has adequate fuel) . You simply cannot begin rubbing two sticks together to create fire unless the conditions are near perfect-not exactly true, but, you do have to have some workable knowledge about it. Wet or damp wood and tinder might not allow a fire to be created this way.

Carry a fire kit that contains magnesium sticks, Ferro rods, waterproof matches and dry tinder. Tinder can be cotton balls saturated with petroleum jelly, which are ideal for damp conditions. Alcohol based hand sanitiser or alcohol wipes can also be used. A spark from flint and metal can ignite tinder that has alcohol applied to it. Carry char cloth, which can also be ignited from a single spark along with dried grasses and/or fatwood (pine resin) and wood curls from seasoned wood.

Rope (Cordage)

Cordage might be needed for shelter building, snares, lashing materials to your pack or body, and for carrying or pulling items.

Making cordage from materials found in the wilderness while, like fire building, maybe harder than some survival manuals, and survival adventure, reality shows, try to make it out to be, can be done by anyone—with basic industrial arts, or, home economics knowledge. Always remember, while cord making can be a fun pass time—you know like stone knapping—it is almost never a necessity(there are other ways of obtaining cordage in any disaster/survival situation-it is seldom, ever a necessity and might be almost impossible to accomplish in cold weather, particularly if there is a good deal of snow as well. But, should you have the time-to waste, persistence might, eventually pay off , provided of course, you have any idea, at all, of what you are really attempting to do—that is succeed at Canada’s national game and--WIN. Certain types of rope, string or twine may be made from plant material as well as animal sinew; and, you are—well maybe-- surrounded by plant materials in a wilderness environment.

Plant materials that are ideal for making cordage include dogbane, milkweed, hemp, flax, bulrushes, cattails, yucca, willow, cedar, tuliptrees (many times mistaken for poplar) and basswood. You can essentially make twine or string from any plant material that can be twisted or plaited.

The fibre of the plant is used and then the individual strands are twisted or braided together. In some cases, a supple vine can be used as is. Grasses can be used by tying the ends of three pieces together to do a simple braid. Larger fronds like those found on cattail or certain cacti can be used to make carrying containers by weaving the fronds into baskets, bowls or even into sleeping mats. To make string from cattail fronds separate the fronds into fibres and twist or braid together.

Clothing and other material can be unravelled and, or cut into strips and twisted together—so may strips of plastic. If, you become stranded in a vehicle, you may have plastic grocery sacks that can be used and even the vehicle wiring can become cordage. The material in car seating can be cut into strips and braided together as well. Do not forget shoelaces and drawstrings on clothing and backpacks.

Food Gathering

Hunting

Always, in any disaster/true survival situation, ALWAYS, ALWAYS, hunt for and gather WATER, and any, available, berries, nuts, vegetation, first and foremost.

To many weekend survivors and urban bushcrafters; those really not at all familiar with Canada’s true national game; humans and grizzly bears, are considered apex predators, living in an environment where they are the biggest animal with no predators that consider them prey because of their size and ferocity; which would mean they are hunters and typically not the hunted.  

A human’s ability to reason and use weaponry along with the capability to control the environment around them is why humans are considered, by most of these people, to be APEX predators. While, of course, again, as usual; neither premise is true- for not many humans normally do any hunting and:

1.   YOU HAVE TO HUNT. But more importantly, you have to know what to hunt for-If you enter the wilderness without hunting or gathering; not necessarily, killing trapping skills, you may very well, probably, go hungry.

2.   While historically, grizzly bears did at one time live in an environment in which they were, arguably, among the top FIVE or so, land animals in size (total bulk), after woods bison, prairie bison, elk (North American moose), and the polar bear of the high-Canadian- arctic. While they might have run up against an odd very large elephant seal, or sea lion; their normal range was too far south for them encounter many walrus.

3.   Grizzly bears are not carnivorous, the only truly carnivorous bear, in the entire world is the (most live in Canada- Churchill is considered, the polar bear capital of the world).

• Nearly five times as many people are STILL, killed or seriously injured each year in North America by bison as by all predators combined.

4.   In any case, being an apex predator does not mean that prey give themselves up to you. Learn hunting skills before you need the skills to provide food for you and your family. Hunters that are desperate rarely do well for obvious reasons and hunters become desperate because of lack of success that stems from lack of training and experience. You do not need to come back to camp more than one time empty handed with hungry mouths staring up at you to understand desperation.

You need certain skills sets, tools, and equipment to hunt successfully. This does not mean you cannot improvise. You are not an apex predator and probably never will be but, hopefully, you do have ability to reason, in other words you may be able to, intelligently, solve some simple, problems.

Hunting Trapping Snaring Small Game

If you do not have a firearm, cross bow or longbow and after most any disaster or in a true survival situation, you won’t; then your chances of bringing down big game are low. This means you have to concentrate on smaller game that can be caught in snares or traps or in some cases brought down by thrown sticks or stones (highly unlikely, considering most “week end, survivor /adventure game players would not have the first clue as to how to go about doing so. Certain birds can be knocked down by stones and hunters in certain parts of the world routinely hunt birds and small mammals with sticks.

Spears can be used as well but success with a spear for most “Survivors” has more to do with luck than knowledge or skill. However, spears can be used by practically anyone to fish with if you stand directly over the fish and plunge straight down while still hanging onto the spear.

Thrown-something you don’t want to be ever doing- spears unless specifically designed, and balanced, (not a “survival” tool) do not have enough thrust behind them.

Snares once set can be considered a passive food-gathering method so set your snares first and then fish or hunt. You simply cannot rely on just one method of capturing game. You have to increase your chances of success by employing multiple methods.

Set snares along game trails that lead to and from water but keep in mind larger predators also use these trails so you will be competing for resources. Trapped animals are an easy meal for larger animals so you have to check your traps often.

A simple snare is nothing more than cordage or wire in a loop with a slipknot. The animal walks into the noose and it tightens as they try to push through. The loop must be sized for the type of game in the area. Too big of a loop and the animal walks through the snare and two small of loop means their head cannot enter the loop.

Tracking

You see tracks in the snow or mud, now what do you do? You are hungry, do you follow the tracks or sit tight and hope another animal comes along because the tracks may indicate a trail that other animals might move along as well.

You should be able to tell right away if it is a trail used by all animals, trails usually lead somewhere, and it is usually to a water source. Multiple tracks of various animals and the age of the tracks would indicate a game trail that has been used for some time.

You have to know to some extent how old the tracks are, if they are days old it will not do you any good to follow them. In a survival situation, you have to balance the effort against what you may gain. If you burn up 2,000 calories in hopes of stumbling upon something then you will likely end up with a deficit at the end of the day.

With a little practise, you can determine fresh tracks from old tracks particularly in snow or mud. Tracks in snow will lose their shape quickly depending on wind and temperature. If you cannot look at the track and see an actual print embedded then it is likely an old track. Older tracks in the snow all tend to look alike and it is difficult to determine if it is a deer, rabbit or even human after a while because of snow melting and from snow that has been blown into the tracks.

Tracks hours old in the mud may, but, do not count on it, begin to crumble at the edges. If, there is sun or breezes, you can easily see where the mud is drying around the rim.

Bent or broken vegetation is another sign an animal or human has passed by. In cold weather, it will be harder to determine how long ago because the vegetation will not likely have sap. Green vegetation will have seepage, a fresh break is easily identified by the fresh sap, and older breaks will be readily evident as well by the effects of weathering. Note the height of the break from the ground to get an idea of the size of the animal.

Grasses that have been trampled will typically begin to spring back after an hour in warm weather but the time it takes depends on how high the grass is. If the grass is, only a few inches high it will spring back into position faster than deeper grass.

****Foraging, Gathering****

Foraging is simply the act of gathering supplies usually food. Edibles to forage for in a wilderness environment include nuts, berries, and edible plants.

Remember, some plants and berries can be toxic to humans sometimes resulting in death if eaten.

There are edible plants however, that are readily identifiable from their pictures such as cattails, arrowroot, and even day lilies growing wild. These plants do not resemble other plants that may be poisonous.

Everyone knows what pine cones look like along with pine trees, or do they. Pine nuts found in pine cones from any tree are edible as well as the inner layer of bark on all pine trees.

Pinion nuts, for example, were a staple of Native Americans diets and the local people often migrated according to the Pinion nut’s growing season.

Berries that are easily identified include blackberries, raspberries and Indian strawberries, which should not be confused with so-called wild strawberries. Strawberries really are not wild berries and if you find the white blossomed berries then they are traditional strawberries and not Indian berries. The white blossomed plants are likely holdouts from a farm that was in the area or birds have carried the seed. Indian strawberries have yellow blossoms and do not taste like a strawberry but they are edible and plentiful if you find a patch.

Foraging must be done regularly because you are competing with birds and other mammals in the area so you need to keep track of the ripening process. Over time, you will know when to begin looking and where to look.©Al (Alex-Alexander) D Girvan. All rights reserved.

Bivouac and Hammock Tent Survival Shelters

A “ bivouac” shelter may include  any of a variety of improvised, or now, more commonly, manufactured,(top, left image)  camp site shelters; such as those used in scouting, mountain climbing, week end adventure Survival  scenarios. The term may often refer to sleeping in the open with a bivouac sack, but it may also refer to a shelter constructed of natural materials like a structure of branches to form a frame, which is then covered with leaves, ferns and similar for waterproofing and duff (leaf litter) for insulation. Of course, the term could also be used in reference to an all snow iglu in which the only heat was, traditionally a Kudlik (stone lamp or "bitch lamp". In any case, what we usually think of as a bivouac is rather small and were as a Kudik was enough to provide all the heat wanted in a snow iglu; a candle can provide- more than- enough heat for any other bivouac type shelter.

The word bivouac is French; and ultimately derives from an 18th-century Swiss German usage of beiwacht (bei =  by, wacht =  watch or patrol).

In North America, a bivouac is sometimes called a bivy for short.©All (Alex, Alexander) D Girvan. All rights reserved.

The Tarp Emergency Shelter, Including a Word of Caution About Commercially Manufactured Tents

A "tarp" shelter is often enough for most of our “bushcraft"/survival situations. Most of us only go out for such adventures in rather nice weather anyway.

Although generally bulky, the tarp does not have to be large nor  expensive. They need weigh almost nothing. For one person, one 6 x 10 bought in some hardware or gas station will more than suffice.

Many of you own a military type poncho or ground sheet. These can and were intended to be used to make an emergency shelter. Just make a frame from saplings and tie the ground sheet over it, using para-cord.  Or, use as shown in my illustration (.Sleeping kit is airing in the morning sunshine). A decent-sized tarp creates a fantastic space under which to live, not just sleep. You get much more room than you do in a tent; and, you can adjust the ceiling height to suit yourself. Not just for disaster/survival situations; for most of the year it is my favourite way of sleeping out in the woods. You wake up fresh and in the environment around you, not shut off from it.

The tarp is suspended, running the cord under the apex of the tarp. This gives a line inside the tarp on which one can hang equipment (including, a battery operated camp lantern, for easy reach in the night), as well as being able to air the sleeping kit, socks, etch. under the tarp without fear of it getting wet in a rain shower.

Lay branches and leaves on the ground for bedding, and add side walls, if needed
Very important in winter conditions; if, you are, or intend to be, using a commercially manufactured tent, make sure it is double walled and also large enough to meet your needs. Most "two" man tents have barely enough space for one person.

©Al (Alex-Alexander) D. Girvan. All Rights reserved.

About, Snake Bites and how to Avoid Them.

Pacific Rattlesnake Crotalus oreganus

Northern Pacific Rattlesnake Crotalus oreganus-same snake, here with a slightly different appearance and common name

The Prairie rattlesnake Crotalus viridis viridis,  is the only venomous snake in the Canadian prairies.

It can be found in south western Saskatchewan and south eastern Alberta. In the United States of the Americas, its range extends from Idaho and Montana, to western Iowa, and northern Mexico.

All three of the above images are public domain.

 There is no copyright and nobody has any legitimate claim of ownership

Contrary to what you have seen in John Wayne and other “Western” movies,"American" action, and/or war, movies; when it comes to fight or flight a snake will always choose flight. There are no snakes, of any type, anywhere in the world, that will attack a human; or any other large animal, unless they are provoked and feeling in mortal danger. And, despite what you saw in the movie True Grit,the chances of you dying from; or even suffering a snake bite, anywhere in North America; but, especially in Canada, are very rare, indeed. Although there are still claims that if has happened; warm sleeping human bodies are not really known to attract snakes –of any kind. There has never been a proven case of a snake ever crawling into an occupied sleeping bag.
The exaggerated fears of rattlesnakes arise, mainly, from such equally exaggerated stories of their prevalence, their viciousness, and the inevitable fatalities from their bites. 
In truth, snakes are rarely as common as people think; and, they are timorous creatures that will bite human beings only if hurt, or, frightened; and a bite is rarely fatal, if properly treated. In 1803, it was said that if the travellers’ tales of the danger from rattlesnakes were true, the Americas, including the United States thereof, would be uninhabitable."

Rattlesnakes are a group of venomous snakes of the genera Crotalus and Sistrurus of the subfamily Crotalinae ("pit vipers"). There are thirty two known species of rattlesnakes, and between sixty five and seventy subspecies. Ranging from southern Alberta and southern British Columbia in Canada to Central Argentina in South America; all are native to the Americas,

Yes, rattlesnakes are predators, hunting small animals such as birds and rodents that live in a wide array of habitats.

Yes, they kill their prey with a venomous bite, rather than by constricting. All rattlesnakes possess a set of fangs with which they inject large quantities of hemotoxic venom. The venom travels through the bloodstream, destroying tissue and causing swelling, internal bleeding, and intense pain. Some species, such as the Tiger Rattlesnake and the Mojave Rattlesnake, additionally possess a neurotoxic component in their venom that causes paralysis and other nervous symptoms.

Yes, rattlesnake bites are the leading cause of snakebite  injuries in North America. However, rattlesnakes rarely bite unless provoked or threatened; and, if treated promptly, the bites are rarely fatal.

The Tiger Rattle Snake (Crotalus tigris) is a highly venomous pit viper species found in the south western United States and north western Mexico. No subspecies are currently recognised. The specific name, tigris, Latin for "tiger", refers to the many narrow dorsal cross bands, which create a pattern of vertical stripes when viewed from the side. Tiger rattlesnakes are easily identified by their small, spade shaped head, which is about 1/25 of their total body length. They have the smallest head of any rattlesnake and a large rattle. The Prairie Rattlesnake Crotalus viridis, (common names: prairie rattlesnake, western rattlesnake, plains rattlesnake) is a venomous pit viper species native to the western United States of the Americas, south western Canada, and northern Mexico. Currently, two subspecies are recognised.

The Pacific Rattlesnake Crotalus oreganus, (common names: include western rattlesnake, northern Pacific rattlesnake, Pacific rattlesnake, black rattlesnake, Arizona diamond rattlesnake, black diamond rattlesnake, black snake, California rattlesnake, confluent rattlesnake, diamond-back rattlesnake, Great Basin rattlesnake, Hallowell's rattlesnake, Missouri rattlesnake, Oregon rattlesnake, Pacific rattler, rattlesnake, southern rattlesnake, western black rattlesnake, western rattler and north Pacific rattlesnake.) is found in North America from south western Canada, through much of the western half of the United States of the Americas, and south into northern Mexico.

In Canada, it is found in southern British Columbia. In the United States of the Americas, it occurs in several states, including: Washington, Oregon, western and southern Idaho, California, Nevada, Utah, Arizona, and likely west-central New Mexico.

In northern Mexico, it is found in western Baja California and the extreme north of Baja California Sur, from sea level to an altitude of 2,500 m (8,200 ft).

The threat of envenomation, advertised by the loud shaking of the titular noisemaker ("rattle") at the end of their tail, deters many predators. However, rattlesnakes fall prey to hawks, weasels, king snakes, and a variety of other species. Rattlesnakes are heavily preyed upon as neonates, while they are still weak and mentally immature. Very large numbers of rattlesnakes are killed by ignorant, misinformed, (usually movie addicted), humans. Rattlesnake populations in many areas are severely threatened by habitat destruction, poaching, and extermination campaigns.

Public Domain Image, No Copyright and No legitimate claim of private ownership.

The Massasauga Rattle snake (Sistrurus catenatus) is a stout-bodied rattlesnake, usually about 50 to 70 centimetres long. It is Ontario’s only venomous snake, though like all rattle snakes, IT WILL ONLY BITE IN SELF-DEFENCE IF IT IS THREATENED OR HARASSED. It has a triangular head and a tail that ends in a small rattle that creates a buzzing sound when the tail shakes. The body is grey to dark brown with darker brown “butterfly” or “saddle-shaped” blotches down the back, with alternating blotches along the sides. The Massasauga is the only Ontario snake with a vertical (cat-like) pupil. Appreciate snakes and don’t harm them. Sadly, the deliberate killing of snakes by humans is a significant threat to the Massasauga and other Ontario snakes. Human persecution led to the eradication of the Timber Rattlesnake from Ontario.

Rattlers are too slow to outrun or dodge even the slowest of their enemies, thus the need for good long-range vision

Rattlers have good vision to at least 15 feet away under moderate illumination. The eyes are set so far to the sides of the head that they have only a limited field of binocular (stereo) vision. This may result in their moving their head from side to side as they try to get a good picture of something.

Like all snakes, rattlers do not have external ears or all of the usual internal ear structures; instead they feel vibrations transmitted through the ground, though more recent research indicates that many snakes are able to hear airborne sounds as well.

Rattlers tend to bask near an escape hole - a rocky crevice or animal burrow - to which they can go when they feel threatened. Their other methods of defence, in order of general preference, includes procryptic (their protective colouring enables them to blend into the background especially when the snake is absolutely motionless); rattling; flight - escaping down it's bolt hole or just away from the disturbance; withdrawing its body into a flat (along the ground) coil, hissing and rattling; drawing up into a striking coil, hissing and rattling; lastly, striking.

The amount of venom injected into a bite is variable depending upon a number of factors - the age of the snake and how it perceives the threat; whether or not the snake has just envenomed prey, etc. Historically, mortality rates remain pretty much the same - only slightly less than 3% of bites are fatal. Even so, the fatality generally is caused by secondary infection, alcohol poisoning, being bitten repeatedly and/or by multiple snakes, or allergic reaction to the venom.

Symptoms of an envenomed bite include: immediate pain, swelling and discolouration, weakness and giddiness, difficulty breathing, nausea and vomiting, haemorrhaging from the wound site, circulatory disturbance such as rapid, fluttery or thready pulse and a drop in blood pressure. Bites on face or neck may result in difficulty in swallowing, numbness of lips and tongue, excessive thirst and cold sweats. Note: Many of these symptoms are symptoms of general shock and/or panic, and are not uncommon in the case of a phobic person who is terrified of all wild animals (or who believes that all snakes are venomous) who is bitten by an otherwise innocuous non-venomous snake or generally harmless animal.

However, when out walking, hiking or camping, in snake country, precautions should, always, be taken; from early morning to late evening, as temperature, season and humidity can all affect just when rattlers will be active.

To prevent bites, take precautions such as wearing protective pants and boots, and look where you are walking and sticking your hands. Bites commonly occur in the following instances: picking berries or flowers; picking up kindling or firewood - even from neatly maintained stocks of firewood; reaching into brush to pick up animals or rocks, etch.; reaching blindly into tree hollows and animal burrows; turning rocks; climbing rocks, especially reaching for hand and toe holds without looking; walking and hiking through brush without protective clothing; cutting thick brush; picking produce from a heavily grown-over garden; moving around in the dark, picking up and moving things.

 Do's and Don't s:

·     Don't move planks, rocks or logs by hand - use a stick or crowbar until you can see under it.

·     Don't gather firewood in the dark. Do it in the daylight, or at night under well-lighted conditions.

·     Don't reach into holes in the ground, rocks or trees, woodpiles, even abandoned buckets and tires.

·     When walking, stay in cleared areas (paths) as much as possible, and keep a visual and auditory look-out for rattlers.

·     Take most care when the temperatures are moderate, not only when they are very hot or cold.

·     Use a flashlight when moving about at night.

·     Step on a log, not over it, so you can first look down to make sure there is nothing concealed on the other side.

·     If possible, avoid walking to close to rocky ledges.

·     Never put your hands and feet where you can't see them.

·     When crawling under a fence, beat the grass or brush first to assure there is no snake lying there.

·     Look around before you sit on a rock or log.Learn to recognize the venomous snakes.

·     Avoid killing all animals(even rattlers have an important environmental niche they fill), but at all costs, avoid killing non-venomous ones.

·     When you hear a rattle, freeze until you identify where the sound is coming from; you don't want to accidentally step on it when trying to flee. Once you have spotted it, give it time to move away. Normally, they will flee, if, given the opportunity.

·     Then, if it doesn't, move slowly straight away from it; don't walk to one side or the other as that could be perceived as threatening. Look behind you before you start to walk backwards - you don't want to trip over a rock, or another snake.

·     Does not tease, molest, or harass any animal.

·     Snakes cannot close their eyes. Therefore you cannot tell if they are asleep.

·     If you come across a snake, please don’t try to capture it, handle it or kill it. Snakes can be delicate and improper handling can cause serious injury. Also, certain species are protected under legislation, which makes it illegal to harass, harm or kill them. Be respectful and observe from a distance.

·     Don't handle a dead or injured snake. Dead snakes may not really be dead. Muscle contractions can still cause envenomed wounds, even when handling the decapitated head of a rattler.

Rattlers cannot move fast enough to overtake a person who wants to get out of its way. The only danger is that the person falls or trips in getting away, thus disturbing another snake, or falls towards the rattler rather than away.

Spring is the period of greatest activity. Emerging from winter hibernation, they are hungry and looking for mates, as this is also the breeding season. During this time they will eat prodigiously. Males are looking for females to court, and will battle competing males. During these times of stress, when trying to eat, and when in their opaque stage several days before they are ready to shed, is when they are most likely to act in an aggressive manner-but, only when disturbed.

Snakes migrate to and from their winter denning site, so aggregations of them may be found during a short period of time during the spring and fall. Dens are usually in rocky outcroppings in the hills, or in deep animal burrows. They are not good tree climbers, but many are good swimmers.

It is often, mistakenly, (again usually by movie addicts), believed that rattlers are active only during the heat of the day.

Not only do they, always, rest, during the heat of the day, sheltered from the sun, they are adept hunters in the dark, their heat pits and sense of smell guiding them to prey. During periods of excessive heat during the day, many diurnal animals become corpuscular (active at dawn and dusk) or partially nocturnal. Thus rattlers are more nocturnal in summer than during the spring or fall, and adults are more nocturnal than juveniles.

Despite their need for heat to be able to function, rattlers can function at surprisingly cold temperatures - especially the Mojave rattlers and sidewinders.

Rattlers' preferred habitats include (depending upon species) deserts, grassy plains, and brushy and rocky hills. In addition, there needs to be a suitable amount of prey, proper climate for the species, and places to hide and hibernate.

Rattlers' main prey is small mammals. Those that live near areas with large populations of amphibians will also feed extensively on them. Others will feed on the eggs of ground nesting birds. Know your local wildlife! 
© Al (Alex, Alexander) D. Girvan. All rights reserved.