SURVIVAL AND BUSHCRAFT TECHNIQUES, "DOWN NOT OUT".: October 2011

Sunday 16 October 2011

Recipe,Elk (moose)), Dried Meat Used to Make Pemmican.

Elk (moose), Dried Meat

1. The meat is cut into sheets, about 1/2 inch thick. If you see how it's done, then it's much easier.

2. You can sprinkle it with salt and pepper if you want to and the pepper may help to keep flies away.

3. Hang the sheets over a pole to dry in the wind and sun. Keep a fire going underneath, to keep the flies away.

Recipe, Modern Sourdough/Bannock Biscuits ???

Modern Sourdough/Bannock Biscuits???
Although passable, this recipe is not nearly as good as SODA BREAD and, as previously explained, because of the addition of baking powder, it is not a true sourdough. And, because it is formed into biscuits, it is definitely not bannock (the word bannock indicates (means) a loaf of quick bread).

1/2 cup sourdough starter

1 cup warm water (no hotter than 90F)

2 1/2 cups unsifted flour,

2 cups wheat flour and 1/2 cup Graham flour, corn flour

other flour

3/4 tsp. salt

1 tsp. baking powder

1/2 tsp. soda

(if more soda is used, with this recipe, bread will turn yellow; must be well mixed).

1. Mix starter, water, and 1 cup of the flour in a large bowl, at least 8 hours before baking time. Cover bowl, and keep at room temperature.

2. Turn out on floured cloth or bread board.

3. Combine salt, baking powder, soda and the remaining 1/2 cup of flour, and sift over top of the dough; mix into dough with hands, kneading lightly.

4 .Roll out dough to 1/2 inch thickness, and cut with a round cutter. Place rounds in a greased, 9-inch square pan close together; let them rise for about 1/2 hour, then bake in a preheated, 375 F oven 30-35 minutes.

Recipe, Modern Style Sourdough Bread

Modern Style Sourdough Bread

Sourdough Starter:

2 cups all- purpose flour

1 package active dry yeast

2 cups warm water

Dough:

2 Tbsps. sugar

1 Tbsp salt

1 tsp baking soda

Water

6 to 8 cups all- purpose flour

3 Tbsps. butter, melted

1) Make Starter: In large bowl, combine flour and yeast; stir in water; beat until smooth. Cover bowl with waxed paper.

2) Let stand 48 hours in a warm place, stirring occasionally. If it does not rise, form bubbles and separate, start again. Stir well before using starter.

3) Make the dough a day before serving bread: In large bowl with mixer at medium speed, beat well sugar, salt, soda, 2 cups warm water, 1 cup starter and 3 cups flour.

4) Cover bowl with towel; let batter rise at room temperature, away from draft, at least 18 hours.

5) About 4 ½ hours before serving: Stir in 3 ½ to 4 cups flour to make soft dough. On floured surface, knead until smooth and elastic, 8 to 10 minutes.

6) Cut dough in half; shape into 2 flat, round loaves, measuring about 7 inches in diameter. Place loaves on well greased cookie sheets; cover with towels and let rise in warm place until doubled, about 2 hours.

7) Preheat oven to 400 F. Brush loaves with water; with a sharp knife, cut 3 to 5 crisscross slashes across top of each loaf.

8) Bake 45 to 50 minutes until golden and loaves sound hollow when tapped. Remove to racks; brush with melted butter.

To Replenish Starter:

If you plan to make Sourdough Bread Regularly (at least once a week) this starter may be replenished, if there is at least 1 cup left.

Combine 1 cup all- purpose flour with 1 cup warm water and beat until smoothly blended. Stir into remaining starter. Leave at room temperature a few hours until mixture begins to bubble. Cover loosely; refrigerate replenished starter until needed.

Friday 14 October 2011

Raspberry Leaf Tea.

Raspberry Leaf Tea

1. Steep a scant teaspoon dried raspberry leaves in 1 cup boiling water for 3 minutes.

Wednesday 12 October 2011

FISH TRAPS

A net is still, by far, the most effective method of catching fish and almost any animal; but nets require cordage-a lot of cordage.

Implementing a fish trap can also be a very effective strategy, in your quest to obtain animal food; after a disaster, and when you are in a real short term survival situation. However, many of us, for some unknown reason; perhaps to demonstrate our, cunning, intelligence, and superiority over other animals; attempt to build them in a far too complicated way.
For many, very good, reasons (not the least of which is conservation); in the every day world, under ordinary conditions, fish corrals, pens, and container traps are illegal; they are to be built ONLY under emergency conditions and MUST be dismantled, on your departure from the area.
But you are not in the military, or on some TV reality series--so you already know this--
you do--don't you--don't you? How could you not, afterall, you are a "survivor, and besides, you just read it is so?
The basket type fish trap is very effective, especially when used in a narrow, shallow brook, with an under-cut bank. Aboriginal Canadians (before they became extinct) and early European pioneers, did use them fairly often,(well soaked or steamed willow strips can be and usually were, used in both the forming of the hoops, and to lash the ribs to them.), because, quite honestly, they just did not have cordage of the type, or amount, necessary to fashion a gill net. Crab and lobster traps were fashioned out of wood, for the same reason.
You can construct one by lashing several willow, or other, long, narrow, sticks together into a funnel shape. Use fibre cordage, provided of course, that you have enough, readily available, but if such is the case; you would be better to fashion a gill net.You close the top and bottom of the trap; leaving a hole at the top of the trap large enough for the fish to swim in, but not out.

While the illustration does serve to show narrowing of the water channel in order to "guide fish into it--not really necessary, if, you follow my instructions below; the trap, shown in the middle illustration above, is much too complicated and labour intensive in the building to be at ALL practical otherwise.
Instead of driving piles or posts into the stream bed--which in Canada's Arctic will likely be coarse gravel, solid rock, or permafrost; and you are not likely to have a power pile-driver handy--Why would you want to anyway-and scare all fish and game from anywhere close to where YOU are? It would, obviously, be much better, easier, practical to built more like a beaver dam, (smart critters them beaver, maybe that is why they have SURVIVED for so long) out of branches, any available debris, logs, tundra, and even mud. The bottom illustration gives the idea. It is not necessary for you to stop water flow or to flood an area. Instead build this type of trap in an area where the water forms a natural eddy or pool. Place the opening so that natural fish foods will be swept in to the trap. This will of course also bring the fish. The water will flow through or over this type of trap--the fish will not.© Al (Alex-Alexander) D Girvan. All rights reserved.

Monday 10 October 2011

TWO TIP-UP SNARES

Snare traps are, reportedly, being set in Anaheim, California, United States of the Americas, neighbourhoods; in order to catch coyotes that are no longer welcome to live in their OWN, NATIVE, environment.

When triggered, these Baited Snares (Garrets)—composed of steel, cable or wire—jerk, tightly, around the victims—like all true Garrets, easily slicing through flesh— neck, face, body, or limb.

Deadfalls, snares, and ALL other traps, ARE NOT toys.

They are NOT to be used for Week-end Survival Games;

or, by some, brainless, Criminal, JACKASS; that, just happens, to be in an EVIL, macho, killing, mood.

They ARE deadly.

The animal, pictured, might just as easily be a much loved family pet;

or, worse, A CHILD.

ALTHOUGH I HAVE HEARD OF EVEN EXPERIENCED TRAPPERS SHOOTING OR EVEN EMPLOYING A DEADFALL TO KILL A SKUNK; I CAN NOT UNDERSTAND THEIR THINKING; WHY THEY WOULD EVEN CONSIDER DOING SO.

IT IS VIRTUALLY ONLY BY USING A POP-UP OR TIP-UP SNARE THAT YOU CAN CATCH, AND/OR KILL, A SKUNK OR ANY MEMBER OF THE MUSTELIDAE FAMILY WITHOUT HAVING THEM SPRAY AND THUS CONTAMINATE THE ENTIRE AREA.

It must be noted these “bush craft survival tools” are not toys for macho types; or for kids; who never grew up. All are very, very, dangerous-can be dangerous to human life or detrimental to survival. All are illegal to use in Canada and or other CIVILIZED counties, except in extreme emergency. All must be clearly marked during the period of use; and must be dismantled immediately after the emergency situation is over. IF YOU ARE USING ANY OF THESE TOOLS TO TRAP OR KILL GAME, UNDER THE GUISE OF PRACTISING BUSHCRAFT, YOU COULD, AND SHOULD BE, CHARGED WITH ANIMAL ABUSE, DANGEROUS ACTIVITY-POTENTIALLY CAUSING HUMAN HARM, AND SEVERAL OTHER THINGS UNDER THE FISH AND WILDLIFE ACT.

The trigger, as shown in the above illustration, might work great, if precision crafted; out of metal; but even that is doubtful as it would probably bind , unless it is also well lubricated and free of rust or other corrosion. If made out of wood,(keep it simple)the necessary tip-up/spring pull is going to create enough friction, and the trigger cord allow enough slack movement that this thing will not release. Either that or the pressure will be enough that those; so carefully fitted, little notches, will break off and it will release prematurely.

NOTE: WITH ALL TRIGGERED SNARES AND TRAPS,

YOU MUST MAKE SURE THAT:

YOUR TRIGGER SUPPORT PEGS ARE:

LONG ENOUGH,

DRIVEN IN THE GROUND FAR ENOUGH,

AND ARE STRONG ENOUGH,

TO WITHSTAND

THE CONSTANT PULL

EXERTED BY THE SPRING, TIP-UP

OR WEIGHTED POLE

ACTIVATING/TRIGGERING MECHANISM.

ALSO BE SURE THAT YOU ARE USING

SOME KIND OF RELIABLE SAFETY SUPPORT, OR LINE,

WHEN SETTING THE TRAP;

OTHERWISE--YOU MIGHT NOT APPRECIATE,

WHAT YOU CATCH

THAT IS--IF YOU LIVE.

THE TIP-UP COULD GIVE ENOUGH

POWER SO THAT THE NOOSE ACTS

AS A WIRE GARRET(VIRTUALLY WIRE SAW)

DECAPITATING THE INTENDED PREY--

OR AMPUTATING FINGERS, OR A HAND OF ANYONE;

SETTING THE TRAP CARELESSLY.

If using a green sapling (definitely NOT recommended), lop the sapling of its branches and top. Bend the sapling over, and make a mark on the ground directly under the head of the bent sapling.

This is the place where you will set the triggering for the snare. Cut two notched stakes. These should be sharpened at the point, and bevelled at the head so they will drive easily into the ground.

They must be straight and strong, and preferably cut from dead (seasoned) wood.The moisture, or sap, content of green, freshly cut wood tends to cause the trigger pieces to bind, or even GLUE together.

NOTE: See my post about the simple snare.

Contrary to what is suggested by the above illustration, whenever and wherever possible, tip-ups should be fashioned from dry seasoned poles, and ALL BRANCHES should be REMOVED to prevent catching on surrounding vegetation. A live sapling will soon tend to hold the bent over shape-and trap action will be slow-it does not take long for this to happen.

A much more functionally efficient version is the true teeter-totter tip-up; we are all familiar with teeter-totters and what happens when the weight is suddenly removed from the low end.

I see that Google as AOL is trying it again.

Project Gutenberg's Deadfalls and Snares, by A. R. (Arthur Robert) Harding-published 1905. This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg- PUBLISHED BEFORE 1923 ALL MATERIAL IS PUBLIC DOMAIN-THERE IS NO COPY-RIGHT, NO US OWNERSHIP; AND THE ONLY LEGALLY BINDING RESTRICTIONS ARE AGAINST ANY ARCHIVES, COLLECTIONS, LIBRARIES,AND ORGANIZATIONS SUCH AS AMAZON, AOL, GOOGLE, WIKI, ANY INDIVIDUALS OR PERSONS ATTEMPTING TO IMPOSE RESTRICTIONS AS TO USAGE OR CLAIMING ANY KIND OF OWNERSHIP OR COPY RIGHTS.

All that is needed is a weighted pole and a suitable support of some kind(forked stake, log, rock, or tree branch).
For a triggering device, use the support variation, described in my post on the simple snare. OR, IF YOU STILL INSIST ON USING IT, the trigger shown can be improved, through using seasoned wood and also through shaping the upper lip of the notch in the vertical anchor stake into a slightly blunted V shape.
NOTE THE CRUCIAL DIFFERENCES BETWEEN THE TRIGGERING DEVICE SHOWN FOR THIS "TEETER-TOTTER" TIP-UP' AND THE ONE USED FOR THE VERY INEFFICIENT AND BASICALLY, IMPRACTICAL "GREEN TREE/SAPLING SPRING" SET UP.
A few further suggestions: replace the snare noose with a net, in either the tip-up or treadle type trap. Snares can be either made of twine, or wire. Many fox and lynx snare trappers, in Northern Canada, use relatively thin, brass, or copper, wire. Snares work well in cold weather and if properly constructed are pretty sure catchers. When constructed as I suggest, they are definitely not SURVIVOR/VIDEO GAME, TOYS.

I see that Google as AOL is at it again.

A — Spring pole.

B — Staple. Is driven into tree trunk, as shown.

C — Two small nails driven in tree. STAPLE OR NAILS NEED NOT BE OF METAL,it's just a little easier. if available.

D --Three inch nail head end-NOTICE: which must be above and supported by nail C- down, (Obviously, I did not draw the illustration, 1905 my mother and father were not yet born.) with snare looped at each end with a foot of slack between. As soon as the D — three inch nail is pulled down, it will slip past the nail at top end, when spring pole will instantly take up the slack, also the fox, to staple and does its work-careful examination will show that this is another example of MY SIMPLE TRIGGER(see simple snare).

F — Loop should be 7 inches in diameter and bottom of loop ten inches from the ground.

Further Remarks — The nails should be driven above staple so it will pull straight down to release the snare fastening.

A great many foxes (hares, rabbits, lynx, skunks as well) have been caught in Canada by the plan of the drawing outlined. NOTE HOWEVER, THE VERY POOR TRIGGER DESIGN, AS SHOWN IN THE ILLUSTRATION-- it is afterall a sketched/drawn illustration and it would be rather difficult to show the better, or more complete, version; which would incorporate two vertical pegs and one horizontal rung or stick.

A — the snare, should be made of rabbit wire, four or five strand twisted together. It should be long enough to make a loop about seven inches in diameter when set. Bottom side of snare should be about six inches from the ground. That's what should be, In an actual survival situation, you must use what you've got-WITH YOU-ON YOUR PERSON.

B — is catch to hold down spring pole.

C — is stake.

D — is spring pole. Some, MOSTLY "WEEK END WARRIORS" OR "ADVENTURE GAME SURVIVORS bend down a green, growing sapling for a spring pole, but experienced, CANADIAN TRAPPERS will, almost invariably, (by far the best method, environmentally, functionally and responsibly) cut and trim up a small pole about ten feet long; fasten the big end under a root and bend it down over a crotch, stake or small tree-the action is much, much, faster (there is no need to have near as much bend on the pole as shown, it is just a rough illustration, drawn for convenience nothing else) and the snare is just more reliable.

The Bison Jump and Other Impractical.Tools

It must be noted these “bush craft survival tools” are not toys for macho types; or for kids; who never grew up. All are very, very, dangerous-can be dangerous to human life or detrimental to survival. All are illegal to use in Canada and or other CIVILIZED counties, except in extreme emergency. All must be clearly marked during the period of use; and must be dismantled immediately after the emergency situation is over. IF YOU ARE USING ANY OF THESE TOOLS TO TRAP OR KILL GAME, UNDER THE GUISE OF PRACTISING BUSHCRAFT, YOU COULD, AND SHOULD BE, CHARGED WITH ANIMAL ABUSE, DANGEROUS ACTIVITY-POTENTIALLY CAUSING HUMAN HARM, POSSIBLE TERRORIST OR OTHER REBELLIOUS, GURILLA WAR, AND/ OR SUBVERSIVE INTENTION, PLUS SEVERAL OTHER THINGS UNDER THE FISH AND WILDLIFE ACT.

The Bison Jump

Not so long ago, some "Red-neck", "He-man" type Canadians mounted a rifle rack, behind the seat, and in front of the rear window, of their pick-up trucks; where they "proudly" displayed their hunting weapons. That is no longer the case-thankfully-such weapon racks are now illegal. But, it does, since, you are also not allowed to carry, or, in many cases, even own, a side arm in Canada; bring to rise a slight problem.
When you are actually in a disaster survival situation, you are usually NOT going to have access to ANY TYPE of gun, pistol, revolver, rifle, or even a bow or cross-bow.
Consequently, there will be No shooting of large game animals, which is, undoubtedly, for the best, because it will prevent you from traipsing off into the woods looking for something to shoot--AND IT JUST MIGHT--if you use your head, otherwise, at least on occasion, enable you to actually SURVIVE.

But you probably won't.
Instead your thinking???will go something like this.

Not so difficult, you say, to yourself-I can still "bag" a couple herds of the stupid critters. I will simply expend an HOUR OR TWO of my time and build a couple of long stout guide fences then herd a couple hundred of them over a cliff.

(Mind you, each fence must be, at least, eight feet high, and a mile long-more likely five to ten). Then, of course, due to the noise, and the actual time [you will not have any heavy equipment, in most survival situations], it will take you to build them, your intended game will be several more miles away-quite possibly in a foreign country.

Not to worry; you can always build a surround/corral fence first; and then the funnel fence (see illustration of fish trap); before driving those stupid animals over your Ajax--or is yours-- Acme brand, adjustable, handy dandy, cliff.

Running at a maximum fifteen miles an hour [if you just happen to be a world class athlete] and then; only for a short distance, you will chase animals-capable of, sustained, speeds of thirty, to forty, miles an hour over that ever present, completely unfamiliar, to animals that have been following the same trail for thousands of years,[portable?which it must be] cliff. But, of course, this last part, you will not say to yourself.)

Or, just to prove your real, superior, ingenuity, and intelligence you may spend some extra time and build one of these traps--you know the type they were introduced to troops from the United States of the Americas (to further demoralize them) when the Vietnamese were kicking the shit out of troops from that country for attacking theirs. Although no weapon of this type actually ever originated in any of the Americas, they are now often seen, called by several United States of the Americas or extinct "First Nations" tribal, sounding names; in adventure films, such as "Rambo"; and on "Reality" TV Survival shows.

To see "Really,Really Good " demonstrations and illustrations of these Survival-Suicidal Style, Strictly for Dummies, Boob Traps be sure to watch Arnold Schwarzenegger in Predator.

Let's spend a brief time-very brief- exploring some of these devices and their potential use in ANY disaster survival situation.

THE CROSS-BOW&ARROW/SPEAR TRAP

THIS ANCIENT MILITARY WEAPON

WAS USED MAINLY FOR DEFENCE;

AND AS AN ANTI-TANK (KNIGHT)WEAPON.

IT MAY HAVE BEEN USED

SOME WHERE IN VIETNAM,

TO DE-MORALIZE,

AND TERRORIZE;

IT IS NON-SELECTIVE,

AS DANGEROUS

TO MAN AS TO ANIMALS.

THE CONTRAPTION ILLUSTRATED,

COULD VERY EASILY,

AT A DISTANCE OF TWENTY FEET,

BE FIVE FEET, OR MORE,

OFF TARGET,

EVEN IF YOU HAVE USED SOME SORT OF BAIT,

THERE IS NO WAY OF DETERMINING

FROM WHICH DIRECTION

AN ANIMAL WILL APPROACH IT

THEREFORE, IT MAY NOT KILL IMMEDIATELY,

IF AT ALL.

IT IS ENTIRELY,

UNSUITED, TO ANY HUNTING,

SURVIVAL SITUATION;

EVEN IF, CLEARLY MARKED,

WHERE THE LAST THINGS YOU WANT,

IS TO MAIM OR KILL A SMALL CHILD,

ANY OTHER HUMAN,

OR TO HAVE WOUNDED OR DYING,

BIG GAME ANIMAL, OR THE PREDATOR,

COMING AFTER,

YOU.

THE VIETNAMESE MADE, AJAX or ACME BRAND, WILY COYOTE, PIG STICKER, ROAD RUNNER/TOAD JABBER, TREE TAP;

DITTO.

THERE WERE A LOT OF PEOPLE

HALLUCINATING ON LSD/ACID AT THE TIME AND YOU WOULD HAVE TO REMEMBER WHERE YOU SET THE DARN THING.

The illustrated triggering device would actually work (in your dreams), provided, of course, that the wire and vertical support used is strong enough to hold the pressure exerted by your spear spring (which has to be powerful enough to get the job done), without bending or breaking; and provided that the wire wrap around the spring is loose enough, and close enough to the end, that it will slip off (it has to slip off or else this thing could not possibly work), and of course provided that the little toggle, the one we see hanging down below what I presume is the trip wire or trigger, some how, manages to release that spring (It would appear the little toggle is intended to pull that metal ring shown just above it in the diagram back far enough to release the spear spring) which there is nothing to indicate that it could or would-AS SHOWN IN THE DIAGRAM, any of these would be very unlikely; even if the trip wire is pulled off, in all likelihood that wire wrap would still hold back the spear spring. If it does work, it's going to punch a hole in that tree and probably nothing else, as the intended prey is not going to stop and wait; but at least; if you remembered to bring a pail, you might be able to collect some very nourishing tree sap.

THE" WILY- COYOTE" BOOB/DOFUS STYLE ANT OR BEETLE TRAPS.

YOU ARE GOING TO HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM

AS THAT "AMERICAN" KYE-OAT-HE

Again we have that "famous/infamous" figure 4 trigger assembly. Looks good, on paper; but a quick examination, using the laws of physics and gravity,will reveal that it will not actually work.
What's holding the bait stick in place?

As soon as any weight (use the weight of that walnut shell as an example) is applied; the diagonal support stick will be pushed downward and off the vertical support (cordage, as shown here, allows the stretching) and into the ground. The downward direction of the forces will tend to push the vertical support into the ground while the diagonal will tend to topple it over(pre-release, before intended).

FOR A MUCH SIMPLER, WORKABLE TRIGGER, SEE THE SIMPLE SNARE-or, use only a rock (large enough to allow the vertical pole to topple), the vertical support pole, and the bait stick. Place the bait stick on the rock, with one end extending just past the edge of the rock. Now, position your support pole on top of that very end of your bait stick-try to have the weight of your dead-fall pressing directly down on the bait stick-that is all there is to it. Because the bait stick is going to push the base of the vertical support slightly to the side, it is not going to be driven into the ground.
Below is shown another ingenious creation.

A hair trigger that will-rather that you expect to-release what? Surely not that rock-not if "round on round" is enough to hold the tension on that bent twig. Maybe you are playing on your driveway; with miniatures and you want to kill an ant.I would like you to stop and consider for a moment any contact sport, basketball, boxing, foot ball, mixed martial arts; now ask yourself(base your calculations on a very resilient wild animal weighing, oh, let us say fifty pounds:

How heavy; and/or, how far; is your log, rock, or other dead-fall weight; going to have to be or fall; to exert enough striking force to kill that animal?

How do you intend to lift that dead weight and how will you keep it in place long enough to construct your desired triggering device?

Are you going to lift with one hand while working with the other?

Perhaps you will construct the trigger first and then drag your dead weight over and set it down on the trigger. How are you going to accomplish this?

FOR A MUCH SIMPLER, WORKABLE TRIGGER, SEE THE SIMPLE SNARE-or, use only a rock (large enough to allow the vertical pole to topple), the vertical support pole, and the bait stick. Place the bait stick on the rock, with one end extending just past the edge of the rock. Now, position your support pole on top of that very end of your bait stick--try to have the weight of your dead-fall pressing directly down on the bait stick-that is all there is to it. Because, on release, the bait stick is going to push the base of the vertical support slightly to the side, it is not going to be driven into the ground.

A CANADIAN COYOTE

WOULD NEVER WASTE TIME

ATTEMPTING TO LIFT THE ROCK (OR THE WALNUT SHELL, OR CHUNK OF HARDTACK[bottom illustration]);

BECAUSE CANADIAN COYOTES KNOW ALL ABOUT SURVIVAL. IF EVER USING THIS TYPE OF SET-UP AT ALL, A CANADIAN COYOTE WOULD USUALLY BE USING IT ONLY AS A PART OF ANOTHER TRAP; MEANT TO HOLD OR CONTAIN, RATHER THAN KILL.

THE BOOMERANG/THROWING STICK

As is made evident by the instructions below; a true boomerang requires knowledge of, and implementation of, the proper techniques during manufacture; and then much practice afterwards. A throwing stick (usually straight-a curve is of no advantage but it does not really matter), commonly known as a rabbit stick, is very INEFFECTIVE against small game (squirrels, chipmunks, and rabbits), birds, or anything else. Select a stick from heavy hardwood such as oak. If you cant find this type of hardwood, use any other chunk of deciduous wood (all deciduous woods are hard), or any piece of throw able junk you happen to find around. If you have a lot of time to waste, shave off two opposite sides so that the stick is flat like a boomerang. You must practice the throwing technique for accuracy and speed. First, align the target by extending the non-throwing arm in line with the mid to lower section of the target. Slowly and repeatedly raise the throwing arm up and back until the throwing stick crosses the back at about a 45-degree angle or is in line with the non-throwing hip. Bring the throwing arm forward until it is just slightly above and parallel to the non-throwing arm. This will be the throwing stick's release point. Practice slowly and repeatedly to attain accuracy. Of course, to achieve any kind of throwing accuracy, you will, eventually, have to throw it-- at something.

A TRUE BOOMERANG IS VERY DIFFICULT TO PRODUCE.

BUT, ALL YOUNG BOYS AND THOSE THAT DON'T KNOW ANY BETTER; WILL THROW STICKS, OR ROCKS, AT LOW FLYING, OR FLUSHING BIRDS; VERY FEW EVER HIT ONE (YOU NEVER WILL HIT ANYTHING BY SHOOTING OR THROWING ANYTHING AT AN ENTIRE FLOCK OR GROUP OF FLUSHING OR LOW FLYING BIRDS).

IF YOU DIDN'T ALREADY KNOW THAT; YOU

ARE NOT GOING TO BE ABLE TO HIT ANYTHING IF YOU ARE EVER IN A SURVIVAL SITUATION;
BECAUSE YOU STILL DO NOT KNOW HOW TO GO ABOUT EVEN TRYING.

VERY DIFFICULT TO USE,

COMPLETELY IMPRACTICAL,

DON'T WAST YOUR TIME,
AND MORE IMPORTANTLY
ENERGY TRYING.

THE BOLA:

EASY TO MAKE, BUT, REQUIRES MUCH PRACTICE TO USE; AND, IS USELESS IN THE BUSH OR EVEN IN TALL GRASS.

THERE ARE FEW AREAS IN CANADA WHERE YOU WOULD EVER

HAVE THE OPPORTUNITY TO USE ONE.
DON'T WASTE YOUR TIME,OR VALUABLE CALORIES,
AND ENERGY,TRYING.

BOW& ARROWS

AGAIN, LITTLE BOYS, PLAYING COWBOYS (WHATEVER THEY ARE) AND INDIANS, AND SOMETIMES GUYS THAT HAVE NEVER QUITE GROWN UP AND ARE TRYING TO BE MACHO;

OFTEN BELIEVE THEY CAN CONSTRUCT A BOW FAIRLY EASILY;
THEY RUN AROUND,
AND THEY BURN OFF A LOT OF EXCESS CALORIES,
AND EXCESS ENERGY.
THEY CAN NOT, OR SHOULD NOT, EXPECT TO HIT MUCH.

LITTLE BOYS DO NOT EXPECT TO KILL ANYTHING.

THEY DO NOT WANT TO INJURE OR HURT ANYTHING; AND ARE USUALLY DEVASTATED, IF, OR WHEN, THEY ACCIDENTALLY DO.
THESE LITTLE BOYS ARE JUST PLAYING THE GAME FOR FUN.

THEIR BOWS AND ARROWS LAST UNTIL--

THE FUN GAME IS OVER;
THAT'S LONG ENOUGH;THEN, THEY ALL GO HOME AND EAT LUNCH.

BUT THE REAL GAME OF SURVIVAL,
THE GAME ON WHICH THE MOTHER
WROTE THE RULES;
THE GAME ON WHICH CANADA
OWNS THE COPYRIGHT;
IS NEVER OVER; AT LEAST, NOT AS LONG AS YOU ARE STILL ALIVE.

Unlike the very powerful "REAL DEAL"MONGOL BOWS this "real cool" piece of useless junk; is not precision fit, resin laminated, or raw hide bound. Although it is tied "nice and tight" it is not tied tight enough to prevent each stick from moving, or bending, independently; so that this bundle of eventual kindling (pardon me, I lied, it is not completely useless) will produce a completely different arrow cast every time the maker attempts to use it to shoot. But don't get me wrong, the next time you venture of your couch to indulge yourself in your favorite "survival" game, at your favorite "survival" camp location and you find your self getting bored-have nothing better to do-you may just as well waste an hour or two in constructing one. Be sure to manufacture a few dozen just as useless arrows as well.

IT CAN TAKE UP TO A YEAR; OR MORE; TO COLLECT MATERIALS,
SUITABLE FOR MANUFACTURING A SINGLE, USABLE BOW.

THE SAME IS TRUE OF THE MATERIAL NECESSARY TO PRODUCE A SINGLE,
USABLE, ARROW
THE RIGHT TYPE OF ARROW SHAFT
HAS TO BE FOUND,
SMOOTHED AND STRAIGHTENED.

THEN IT HAS TO BE PROPERLY TREATED AND AGED.

NEXT YOU NEED TO HAVE THE NECESSARY KNOWLEDGE AND SKILL.
THE BEND OF THE TWO ARMS OF A BOW HAVE TO MATCH EXACTLY.

A USABLE BOW, AN THE ARROWS TO GO WITH IT ARE NOT, NOT, NOT, EASY TO MAKE.

A GOOD BOW--EVEN ONE ARROW, IS THE RESULT,
OF MANY HOURS OF SKILLED WORK,
AND YEARS OF LEARNING.

AND THEN
AFTER YOU HAVE PRODUCED THAT ONE USABLE BOW
AND BUT ONE USABLE ARROW,

IT IS STILL GOING TO TAKE CONSIDERABLE PRACTICE,

BEFORE YOU ARE ACTUALLY ABLE TO HIT,
ANYTHING-

OR AT LEAST THE INTENDED TARGET.
YOU ARE NOT GOING TO BE ABLE
TO PRODUCE A USABLE BOW OR ARROW;
DURING THE TIME SPENT IN A SHORT TERM
DISASTER OR SURVIVAL SCENARIO;
EVEN IF YOU COULD;
YOU WOULD NOT WANT TO;
NOT IF YOU REALLY WANT TO SURVIVE.

BOWS AND ARROWS
ARE THE WORK OF SKILLED CRAFTSMEN;
WHERE SURVIVAL IS, OR WAS,
A PERMANENT NECESSITY,
IN THE NEVER ENDING
GAME OF SURVIVAL.

FRED FLINTSTONE'S THROWING STAR

GIVEN THE SUGGESTED SIZE OF THIS "WAGON WHEEL", IF THROWN OVERHAND, IT MIGHT WELL BE NEXT TO IMPOSSIBLE TO HIT YOUR TARGET-SAY A RABBIT ON THE GROUND-ONE ARM OR POINT WILL UNDOUBTEDLY HIT THE GROUND, SHORT OF THE RABBIT, WHILE THE OTHER WILL PASS RIGHT OVER-ESPECIALLY IF THE GROUND IS NOT REAL SOFT MOSS OR TUNDRA OR ON A HARDER GROUND SURFACE IF THERE IS ANY BOUNCE AT ALL. OF COURSE, THE SAME THING WILL HAPPEN WHEN THROWING AN ORDINARY AXE, BOLA, BOOMERANG OR RABBIT STICK AS WELL. IF ANY OF THESE WEAPONS WERE TO BE THROWN OVERHAND AT THE SAME GROUND LOCATED TARGET; THE AREA THROUGH WHICH ANY PART OF IT COULD TRAVEL AND STILL ALLOW CONTACT WITH SAID TARGET; WOULD BE REDUCED TO ABOUT AN EIGHT INCH DIAMETER.

A "Modern Stone Age", yet effective-or so the fable goes-tool for hunting small game and/or birds.

Whenever you have nothing better do do-LIKE LIVE-in a real survival situation, make up a semi-trailer or two full of these things; you will lose at least that many before you ever develop skill enough with it to actually hit a given stationary target, forget ever attempting to hit (or even get close to), a running animal or flying fowl-it just won't happen

HOW TO MAKE IT

This "Tool" is constructed of two,sometime more, sections each shaped as shown. A notch is cut in the middle of each, to allow them to be mated together. Each section is typically two to three feet long (about the same size as a wagon wheel), depending on the size and strength of the user. It (like that wagon wheel) should also be very thick, about the size of the users wrist; or head which ever reference point is most convenient. and of heavy hardwood (also like a wagon wheel). One user of these things (presumably for body building) writes "The ends can be either blunt or sharpened. I prefer to put a very slight point (a skull crusher or pommel point, as it is known."

The two halves are fit together as shown above and then bound with para-cord, fishing line, or strips of inner bark-which would be much better eaten, as the only food your going to get-you're going to need it) or whatever is handy.

One final closing note on this subject: believe it or not, there are actually some people who believe that they will have access too and that the items shown above have some place in SURVIVAL(staying alive, in an emergency situation). I just know they have manufactured weapons, in their well equipped, back yard work shops and that they carry them all in their on person survival kits-at all times.
There is NO SUCH THING AS A "SURVIVAL" WEAPON; which is why most of The Mother,s creatures (man being the only exception) know enough and have sense enough, to sheath their killing weapons, for considerable periods of time, after an earth quake, fire,flood, mud slide, tornado, or when ever, and where ever, they find their environment, or very existence; threatened by, or in, a major survival situation.

So now that we have explored: the overly dangerous(to you and anyone else), the fool-hardy, the illegal, the impractical, the outlandish, and the down-right stupid--let us GET REAL and get on to the practical: SEE NEXT OLDER POST.

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