Elephant Hill/Loon Lake, the Strangest Forest/Wild Fire in all of History; or Nature's the Creator's Devine Providence???

This photo shows the cabin and the woodpile, which is provided free of additional charge--no need to pay $25.00 for a little bag containing 8 toothpicks.

Cabin 12 did start to burn, 13, 14, 15, are long gone.

Where cabins 13, 14, 15 stood. The area now being turned into an RV Site.

Showing the wood Heater/stove and the electric Stove.

Table, chairs and fridge, entrance to the bedroom.

There are two beds one in a separate bedroom, as you see in this photo, the other in the main portion of the cabin. In the old days, when this cabin was still a school student wishing to sleep in class got no such luxury

Cabin 12 in which I stayed this time was originally a one-room schoolhouse. The Bathroom as shown however is a modern innovation. In the old days, the doors let outside and to two outhouses, one labelled Girls the other Boys.

The second bed.

The kitchen area and leading towards the front entrance.

The next few pictures show just how close cabin 16 (the newest and largest, complete with basement) cane to becoming one of the lost. The pictures show the opposite side of the cabin from where the lost cabins were. The trees shown are only about three feet from the cabin.

Cabin 16 was completely surrounded by fire. Areas that one might suppose would survive were lost, while buildings and areas one would think just couldn't survive did.

Canadian Dogs, in Snow, and in Cold Weather.

 Remember any dog is happiest if allowed to live, and grow up, in his owner's home receiving needed love, and companionship. Forcing a pet to live a solitary, outside life leads to boredom. A bored dog is often a problem animal, prone to barking, chewing, or other misdeeds.

 No dog is biologically able to endure the unsheltered cold of our winters except sheepdogs, St. Bernards, Chow Chows and Siberian husky, and these do require shelter.

However, many dogs, except toy breeds, young puppies, dogs with very short hair coats, and sick or old dogs can adapt to outdoor living provided they receive necessary food, care, shelter and attention.

 If a dog is kept outside, special considerations must be made

before purchasing or building a shelter based on the animal's size. If the dog isn't kept in a fenced yard

-- the preferred outdoor situation -- it should have a large run or kennel (at least 4-6' wide and 8-12' long) as well as daily exercise with its owner. If the animal is kept on a chain or similar device (never encouraged as it may make the dog aggressive, but unfortunately in many Canadian, urban locations) it should be at least 12' long, with swivel snaps on both ends to prevent tangling and knotting. A dog should never wear a 'choke chain' except during training. A proper restraint device for normal use would be a suitably-sized leather or nylon collar or harness with its snap-ring and buckle in good repair. Dogs should have a license, rabies tag and microchip at all times.

Special precautions insure the animal can't tangle its chain or rope around trees, posts and yard swings(most dogs have enough intelligence to easily untangle a chain, unless you have created a major obstacle course for them . Make sure the animal can't dig under or climb over fences, fall from porches, stairways or elevated patios. Fire, SPCA, and police departments respond to several such reports of hung and hanging dogs each year.

The shelter can be constructed from any of a wide variety of materials, such as exterior plywood, wooden barrels, hay or straw bales, crates, etch. When finished, the interior must allow the animal to sit, turn around and lay down.

The animal must be able to keep dry and warm on the inside and escape the direct rays of the sun on the outside.

Remember, the shelter is for sleeping and escaping weather extremes, not to live in. The interior should provide a comfortable sleeping area protected from drafts. Don't build it too large or it won't allow the dog's body heat to keep the air surrounding him warm.

Historically, dogs roamed at will on the farm and could find places to 'nest' at night or to rest where it was dry and warm -- in stables, barns or sheds -- where sufficient bedding was available or the dog could burrow in stored hay or straw. Modern dogs depend on their owners to provide necessary and proper shelter.

Acclimate your pet to the outdoors during mild weather so his coat and body adapt to seasonal temperature changes. His coat will become thick enough to withstand even very cold temperatures provided his shelter is dry and wind tight. It is important for outdoor dogs to have a sufficient covering of flesh before and during winter since muscle mass and fat covering provide body insulation. If a dog shows signs of poor condition (such as lack of fleshiness over the hips, ribs and backbone) increase its food intake. During winter, the dog should be fed several small meals rather than one large meal. It needs additional caloric intake (about 15% more food for each 20 degree F. drop in temperature) and a bit more animal fat or vegetable oil to help convert energy to body heat.

The shelter opening should be just large enough to allow the dog to enter and exit and should face away from prevailing winds. Shelters should be caulked and raised off wet and frozen ground and be well-insulated. Bedding should be a thick pad with washable cover, containing cedar chips or shredded newspaper. Check bedding daily to be sure it is dry and clean as a dog's coat and feet bring in moisture.

Check on the dog's food and water frequently during the day to be sure they are not frozen. Ice will slip out readily if you put a thin film of petroleum jelly inside the water bucket each time you fill it. A hollow plastic bowl for water won't crack if frozen.

Dogs respond to cold by shivering and depressing their breathing. Hypothermia (excessive cooling of the body's core) prevention requires adequate shelter, protection against wetness or wind, good physical condition, and adequate food and water. A healthy animal's hair coat, skin, underlying tissue and fat protect against hypothermia.

Most heat loss occurs through radiation, convection, and conduction of heat from body surfaces. Conduction is the transfer of heat by direct contact. Convection is the transfer of heat to the environment via air or water movement over the body. Radiation is heat transfer which occurs if an animal goes into the cold without an adequate hair coat or body condition.

Close off empty spaces between the bottom of the doghouse floor and the ground or concrete to prevent the wind from blowing under the shelter. In the worst weather, a protected light bulb can supply additional warmth to the doghouse interior.

Extremely cold weather can lower an animal's resistance to disease and bring on ailments like pneumonia and arthritis. Check the dog's feet frequently for build ups of snow, ice, salt and chemicals.

A good temporary shelter can consist of a shipping crate, wooden or metal drum or even a large cardboard box. The container should be placed on a solid piece of wood set on bricks. Insulate the box or drum with an old blanket or quilt, then encase the entire shelter in several thicknesses of sturdy garbage bags taped or stapled to the structure. The temporary shelter should be replaced as soon as possible with a suitable, permanent shelter.

The best place for a doghouse or shelter is inside another building, such as a garage or shed. The doghouse might be placed on the shady side of a home during summer and on the sunny side during winter.~~Al (Alex-Alexander) D Girvan.

More Chickens 101-First Chickens in Americas Were Brought From Polynesia

 Of Course you Already Know, Fried Chicken is Really Chinese Food.

That is right, not a typo. The original ancestors of all domestic chickens came from China.

The chicken (Gallus gallus domesticus) is a domesticated fowl, a subspecies of the red junglefowl. As one of the most common and widespread domestic animals, with a population of more than 19 billion in 2011. There are more chickens in the world than any other species of bird or domestic animal. Humans keep chickens primarily as a source of food, consuming both their meat and their eggs.

The earliest known domestication occurred in Northern China 8,000 BCE determined from archaeological chicken bones

Why did the chicken cross the Pacific Ocean? To get to the other side, in South America. How? By Polynesian canoes, which apparently arrived at least 100 years before Europeans settled the continent. Such is the conclusion of an international research team, which reported that it had found “the first unequivocal evidence for a pre-European introduction of chickens to South America,” or presumably anywhere in the New World. The researchers said that bones buried on the South American coast were from chickens that lived between 1304 and 1424. Pottery at the site was from a similar or earlier time. A DNA analysis linked the bones, which were excavated at El Arenal on the Arauca Peninsula in south central Chile, to chickens from Polynesian islands. The presence of the South American sweet potato in pre-European sites in Polynesia also indicates some prehistoric contact between the Americas and the Polynesian islands.

The findings published in the Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences. The lead author Alice A. Storey, an anthropologist at the University of Auckland, New Zealand, and other team members are from American Samoa, Australia, Canada and the United States.

Much later; in Northern Italy, near the port of Leghorn, were found a landrace of fowls, known as Livornese. Smallish in body, but which lay very many eggs. In 1852, Captain Gates entered the harbour at Mystic, CT, and arrived with the first importation of Leghorn chickens that were to be ancestors of today’s flocks. The birds were what we now call Brown or Red in colour. In 1853 F.J. Kinney received an importation of Brown/Red Leghorns at Boston Harbour, while Mr. Simpson received a shipment of White Leghorns. From this point, forward Leghorn chickens began to win the hearts of North Americans. The Best Egg-Layer of the older most familiar breeds: They’re generally friendly, though they can be noisy and a bit aggressive at times. Leghorns are good layers of white eggs, laying an average of 280 per year and sometimes reaching 300–320. Better egg layer than brooder

Rhode Island Red: The Best Dual-Purpose Bird: Easy to care for and a good layer! Theyare a popular choice for backyard flocks because of their egg laying abilities and hardiness. Although they can sometimes be stubborn, healthy hens can lay up to 5–6 eggs per week depending on their care and treatment.

Rhode Island Red hens lay many more eggs than an average hen if provided plenty of quality feed.

Buff Orpington: The Best Pet Chicken:

The one caution on this breed is that their docile nature will often make them a target for bullying from other birds.

Bred to be an excellent layer with good meat quality. They can go broody very often, and make great mothers. Due to their build they do well in very cold climates. If you choose to raise a Buff Orpington, be careful not to add aggressive breeds to your flock.

Delaware: The Meaty Bird: Delaware’s are inquisitive and friendly, and generally low maintenance birds. They do tend to have tough moults though, and while most have mild dispositions, some can be a bit cranky.

Delawares are hardy birds that mature quickly. Hens are good layers of large to jumbo brown eggs and will go broody. Not the friendliest bird in the yard but a good layer.

 Ameraucana (sometimes mis-spelled Americana): AKA the Easter-Egger: This breed makes wonderful backyard chickens. They will thrive well either in confinement or free-ranging. They have a calm, non-aggressive disposition, and are very easy to handle. This is possibly the best bird for a family with kids.

The Wyandotte

is a docile, dual-purpose breed kept for their large brown eggs and for meat. Wyandotte hens are devoted mothers. The Wyandotte is a versatile chicken and can adapt to different temperatures. These chickens do fine on free range or in a fenced in yard. The hens will lay around 200 eggs a year. The Wyandotte is a hen that will need her vent checked regularly because of the thickness of her tail feathers she is prone to become clogged if not kept clean.

True Meat Breed: It's not the breed, it's the strain.

Jersey Giant-Weight: TEN POUNDS-a capon of course, would be even larger.

Big, sweet and a truly gentle giant, this ten pound bird is the least economical chicken out there. It is not a good enough layer, though it is a fair layer, to be worthwhile there and it simply eats too much to make it worth while on the dinner table. But, if you're looking for a sweet and loving bird that loves to be picked up and petted, this is the best bird for you. And even though they aren't great layers, the hens are robust and hardy, and quite willing to work steadily through the winter.

Brahma: Weight: 9 Pounds

The origins of the Brahma have been in dispute for more than 150 years. They were introduced in the 19th century to either London or New York and were probably imported from Shanghai, however it is also possible they came from China, India or some other East Indies port. They have also been called Chittagongs, Shanghais, and Brahmapootras. They are fair layers of brown, average sized eggs and very robust and cold hardy. They are very gentle birds which is good as their size could make them quite formidable.

Cochin: Weight: 8 1/2 lbs.

An uncommon chicken, this bird hails from China and shared a name with the Brahma, Shanghai. This breed launched interesting poultry shows as they resemble a large ball of fluff and feathers. Interestingly, the bantam version of this bird is known as a Pekin instead of a Bantam Cochin, though you can certainly find them for sale under the Bantam Cochin moniker. They lay a small, yellowy brown egg and are robust and cold hardy. They are calm, docile and easily handled.

Cornish Game: Weight: 8lbs.

These are the meat birds of the poultry industry and with a solid 8 lbs, it's not hard to see why. They were developed in Cornwall and are often breed with Plymouth Rocks to make the excellent birds we all love to eat. They are a poor layer of small eggs but cold hardy and early maturing. Easily contained, they are less active and more docile than most other game birds.

Orpington: Weight: 8 lbs.

A dual purpose bird, the Orpington is a bit small on the weight side but definitely not on the appearance side. The loose feathering makes the Orpington appear much larger (nearly two times) the size of some other hens and when they are brooding or aggressive they fluff out and appear even bigger. The Orpington is a good layer of above average sized eggs and hardy in all weather. Cold doesn't faze them so you can expect them to continue laying during the cold seasons!

Before the onset of the Cornish Cross broilers, the meat breeds were usually Delaware, New Hampshire, or White Rock. Chosen mainly because the light coloured feathers gave a prettier carcass plucked. You can see the dark pin feathers much easier than the light coloured ones.

But, these breeds were bred and maintained for maximum meat production. Unless you reinforce certain traits in each generation of chickens by selecting your breeders for these traits, you quickly lose those traits. Hatcheries do not select for those traits that give you good meat production. They are in the business of mass producing chickens for backyard flocks, not specialty meat birds. That's what the Cornish Cross is for. You are not going to find good dual-purpose meat birds from a hatchery. It is not a breed thing. It is purely the way they select their breeders.~~Al (Alex-Alexander) D. Girvan.

If Indeed, Some Of You Still Require Such; More Proof That Something Desperately Needs To Be Done About Air Pollution.

Not so long ago, our ancestors, fathers mothers, uncles aunts knew an ELK

- on sight. They also knew that a Wapiti 

(found only in North America; mostly in Canada) was not an ELK. AND that an Elk did not, even remotely, resemble a mouse.

Mice are a large group of mammals, with more than 130 species found worldwide. In Alberta, there are 7 species of mice and 12 species of voles.

The most troublesome and economically important of the species found in Alberta are the house mouse

(which is not a native species), the white-footed mouse

and the meadow vole commonly called field mouse).

(

Economic Losses to Mice.

There is no way of placing a monetary value on human suffering and damage caused by mice. The greatest loss is probably not what mice eat, but what is wasted and contaminated. In six months, one pair of mice can eat more than two kilograms (4 lbs.) of food and deposit about 18,000 droppings. Food contaminated by mice is about ten times greater than the amounts eaten. Food wasted by mouse nibbling is also much more than the amount eaten. So common are mice that it is no wonder their hairs and sometimes droppings, end up in all types of food commodities, from canned beans to loaves of bread.

Structural damage caused by rodents can be expensive. In recent years the trend toward use of insulated confinement facilities to raise swine and poultry, for instance, has led to increased rodent damage. Mice are very destructive to rigid foam, fibreglass batt, and other types of insulation in walls and attics of such structures.

Mice also gnaw wooden structures causing grain and feed to be wasted. They also undermine buildings by burrowing, which eventually causes structural failure and collapse.

Electrical wiring gnawed by mice causes many fires each year, listed as "cause unknown".

Public Health Impact.

Mice and their parasites are implicated in the transmission of a number of diseases including salmonellosis, rickettsia pox and most recently hantavirus. Bacterial food poisoning occurs when foods become contaminated with infected rodent droppings. Mice also carry many types of tapeworms and roundworms, infectious to pets and humans. Hantavirus pulmonary syndrome, which causes severe illness and even death in humans, is transmitted by several mouse species including the white-footed mouse.

To reduce the risk of contracting organisms transmitted by mice, you should practise these common sense precautions:

·         Eliminate mice from residential areas by removing food sources and access for mice.

·         Clean up mouse-contaminated areas by using wet methods, including disinfectants such as Chlorine Bleach.

·         Handle mice and other rodents with gloved hands.

·         Avoid sweeping and vacuuming when possible, and wear a dust mask to reduce exposure to fine dust particles.

·        Campers should avoid obviously infested areas. In high risk areas wear a high efficiency, particulate respirator.

·        Discourage children from playing with or trapping mice. Wild mice should not be kept as pets, or for "science projects".

·         De-worm household and farmyard pets regularly. ~~Al (Alex-Alexander) D. Girvan.

About Bushcraft and About Survival

Imagine a place, maybe the vast, boreal woods of Canada or the verdant jungles of Costa Rica, maybe even in the United States of the Americas. Imagine a place where wildlife, solitude and raw beauty greet the senses at every turn.

 Now, imagine that you are in the exact same place but that it is after a disaster, plane crash, vehicle breakdown; or that you have just wandered off the trail and become lost. You haven't got a lot of fancy gear or equipment—you probably do not have any “REAL” weapons and it is extremely unlikely that you will have any firearms.

But, also imagine being able to comfortably satisfy your needs in such a place with minimal LIGHTWEIGHT equipment and supplies. You know, like your great grandfather and mother, grandfather and mother, possibly even your father and mother were able to do—and DID.

They did not consider that it took a high skill level. In their daily lives, they did not consider  it a knowledge-based approach to combating nature and they sure didn't find it to be extremely liberating; or deeply enriching. They were not much concerned with immersing themselves in nature more fully. These were the techniques that most young boys and girls learned to use in home economics, and industrial art/shop courses. These were the tools and techniques that they would use each and every day of their lives. These were the necessary TECHNIQUES OF SURVIVAL.
These people were concerned with the matters of business, EVERYDAY LIFE, and being Canadians. 
They were concerned with the building. Building villages, town, cities, bridges, dams, roads and the best country on earth. Many of these people lived on the prairies and some, because of the Klondike Gold Rush and other CANADIAN mineral prospecting, or exploration, lived in arctic regions. Many, perhaps most, did not know BEANS” about “Bushcraft. But they did know about improvising; and they did know about using what they had available (hand tools, nature’s bounty/pantry)—the tools building.

They did not have to embolden themselves to venture into nature with confidence and competence. Theirs was not a search to be comfortable in remote wilderness - it was about, comfortably, surviving. It was about enriching the lives of their children and for future heirs. Some even learned some degree of appreciation and enjoyment for and of our local woods, waterways, mountains etch. 
Who-or- What is: Bushcraft, a Pioneer, Self Reliance, a Survivor.  
Do You Really Want to be Counted Amongst the Survivors?

© Al (Alex-Alexander) D Girvan. All rights reserved.   

About Parachutes and Parachute Cord

I have worked and lived in, or near, most of the locations I mention in my next older posting-Subarctic Berries and Images Thereof. I have flown in most of the bush planes, passenger planes, and helicopters, commonly used in the Arctic at the time-1970s and 80s- even a Lear jet.I have flown over mountains, through narrow mountain passes; landed on steep mountain slopes, on the very top of mountains; on ice, snow, and water. Never during that whole time; no, not  even once, was the pilot or I ever equipped with a parachute; so the odds that you; unless you have purchased, and packed, one in your own Personal, Survival or Arctic Kit, having one available if, and when, you find yourself in an actual, survival, situation are very, very, remote indeed-it just is not going to happen-so forget about all your “cool” methods of building shelters and/or tents in which you employ the use of one.

Parachute Cord

Parachute cord (also known as Para-cord or 550 cord) is a light weight nylon rope originally used in the suspension of parachutes during World War 2 (it did not originate in the United States of the Americas). As documented in the original Survival Manuel used by British Empire Air Forces-Down but Not Out-aircrew found this cord to be very useful for many other tasks; consequently it is now used as a general purpose utility cord. Because it is fashioned from nylon which is elastic by nature, par-a-cord is also fairly elastic; but, just as nylon in  is is basically impervious to water, soaking parachute cord for 10-15-20 minutes, for several hours, or for several days, will not cause it to stretch more.

Illustrations below: Wikipedia-http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.5/deed.en

Illustrations above: Wikipedia-http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.5/deed.en

What makes it most useful and practical for use- even over and above the spools of prepared fishing line that I recommend including- in your survival is that the braided sheath has a high number of interwoven strands for its size. But, the all-nylon construction makes the cord elastic; depending on the application, this can be either an asset or a serious liability. parachute cord may be used in almost any situation where light cordage is needed and typical uses include attaching equipment to harnesses, building shelters, snares and traps.

Remember, however, that fashioning a gill net-long proven to be, by far, the most effective method of catching fish, under any conditions;bushcraft survival or otherwise-takes a lot of cordage; which is one of the main reasons why I still recommend including several spools of fishing line in  your larger survival kits. Effective as a gill net is, it is not always the best choice in a survival situation where your cordage supplies are going to be  limited, to say the least; the set-up I show below may be a much better one.

The cords core (commonly referred to as “guts” by North Americans) can also be removed when finer string is needed;  as is usually the case when used to fashion fish lines or nets, sewing or repairing gear. The nylon sheath may also be used alone the core threads removed, when less elastic ties are needed, such as when used as a boot or moccasin lace Ends of the cord must be melted together to prevent fraying. Hikers and other outdoor sports enthusiasts may want to fashion a Survival bracelet, arm band or even anklet; made of several feet of Para-cord; which is woven (usually using one of  the slight variations of the original, simple, one strand, Conquistador braid which is similar to knitting), into a compact and wearable form of jewellery that not only has many practical uses; but is undoubtedly, potentially far less dangerous to ones physical well-being than most of the other, senseless, absolutely useless, body art, and jewellery that people wear. 
Such bracelets are meant to be unravelled (just like the knitting of a sweater), whenever one needs rope, or cord, for whatever purpose.

Unfortunately, while some commercially available Para-cord is made to specifications, much of it, even when labelled as such; will be of inferior quality, and strength. Particularly poor quality examples may have significantly fewer, or no separate strands in the inner core (core constructed of bulk fibre rather than individual yarns or include materials other than nylon.

© Al (Alex, Alexander) D. Girvan-2012

Diet, North American Native, Before "The Horse Culture"

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Nez_Perce_warrior_on_horse.jpg

Recently, diet of the North American Native, before the start of European settlement, and before the "horse culture", has been the subject of major research. Coprolite research: dried human faeces--represent an extraordinarily direct line of dietary evidence. When found during archaeological exploration, they are just dry fibrous lumps that have little discernible smell, but each lump can tell a day-in-the-life story when properly studied back in the lab.

So come on people--let's get real--

plants-- 

 NOT MEAT  were the dietary mainstay.

It is impossible to envision peoples, reliant on meat, of any kind, surviving to age thirty, or the life expectancy at the time (a strictly lean meat diet will quickly kill any animal on earth). 


Woman and children would have harvested most of the plants, especially those requiring labour-intensive gathering and processing such as berries, cat-tails/bull-rushes, chick-weed, onions, and other bulbs and roots. But this stereotypical division of labour masks much of the food that was gathered and eaten. On daily rounds, anyone able and hungry, would have been on the lookout for anything easily acquired. While venison (moose meat is venison) supplied an estimated 40-50% of the total meat (and usable skins for that matter), the animal bones came from many different critters. Most of them were relatively small animals that were probably trapped, snared, netted, or knocked on the head with a stick, rather than brought down with an arrow or spear.

Beaver, Muskrat, porcupine, ground squirrels, prairie-dogs, rabbits--would you eat one of these little critters? The North American Natives did and our pioneer ancestors did; they were  very glad to have them;these meats are much healthier tham the highly procesed meat products we commonly consume today. http://al-alex-alexander-d-girvan.blogspot.com/2010/02/building-of-canada-another-excerpt-from.html

Beaver, Muskrat, porcupine, ground squirrels, prairie-dogs, rabbits, skunk. Were all specially targeted (rabbit pelts were woven in to blankets and robes which were softer, just as warm, and a lot less labour-intensive than bison robes or pillows).

Researches have found plant fibres make up most of the volume of every coprolite that has been studied and that plants constituted at least 75% of the native North American diet.
© Al (Alex-Alexander) D. Girvan. All rights reserved

The Plains Indian "Horse Culture"

All of the above paintings are in the public domain, there are NO copyrghts.

 NO PRIVATE OWNERSHIP OF INDIVIDUAL IMAGES.

Such paintings by Charles Marian Russell and other artists

prove three things; that they vere all, very, good at, repetitive task, sall had very vivid imaginations;
 and access to a CAROUSEL--nice horses.

            The acquisition of horses by the plains Indians in the late 18th century (about 1750) transformed the livesof most tribes.

            Since the bison herds moved seasonally great distances from place to place those who would depend (or pretend to) on them for their survival must more also. The horse made this possible. I know of few situations in history where the economy and culture of a society has been so dramatically transformed. The romance and excitement of this colourful culture truly captured the imagination of the Western World and has become a favourite subject for books, paintings, movies, and especially mythology—it is really regrettable that the glory days of the Plains Indian Horse Culture developed, bloomed, and died, in less than a century. 

When they think of Indians, many North Americans think of the above paintings; and they picture a brave and gallant warrior with a spear or bow and arrow hanging onto a fast running horse. But, the Indians (Indigenous tribes native to North American )did not always have horses. In fact, they did not always have bows and arrows, but that is a different story and trying to use one while on horse back would not be very sensible anyway-the North American Native, before they became extinct; were not stupid.

Although the more northern natives(of the area that is now Canada) undoubtedly saw and became acquainted with horses  of the original “discovers of The Americas-Norse and British- long before; in Southern North American, natives got their first horses from the Spanish. When the Spanish explorers Coronado and De Soto came into America they brought horses with them. This was in the year of 1540. Some horses got away and went wild. But, the Indians did not seem to have done much with these wild horses. They did not start to ride or use horses until much later.

In the 1600s there were a lot of Spanish missions and settlers in New Mexico just to the west of Texas. This is where the Pueblo and Navaho Indians live. The Spanish in New Mexico used the native populations as slaves and workers. These native slaves and workers learned about horses working on the Spanish ranches. The Spanish had a law that made it a crime for any aboriginal person (whole or part)to own a horse or a gun. Still these people did learn how to train a horse and they learned how to ride a horse. They also learned how to use horses to carry packs.

In the year of 1680 the Pueblo Indians revolted against the Spanish and drove the Spanish out of the territory and back down into Old Mexico. The Spanish were forced to leave so fast they left behind many horses. The Pueblo Indians took these horses and used them. The Spanish did not come back until the year of 1694. While the Spanish were gone the Pueblos raised large herds of horses. They began selling and trading them to other tribes such as the Kiowa and Comanche. The Pueblos also taught the other aboriginal tribes how to ride and how to raise horses.

Horses spread across the Southern Plains pretty quickly. French traders reported that the Cheyennes in Kansas got their first horses in the year of 1745. Horses changed life for the plains tribes. The natives of Canada,  the southern Plains Tribes, including the, so called, Texas Plains Indians, hunted bison on foot before they had horses. Bison are not easy to hunt on foot. They can run away faster than any hunter; even on horseback,(bison can run faster and for longer periods than the average horse can) can follow after them.

© Al (Alex-Alexander) D. Girvan. All rights reserved.

 SEE ALSO: Native Hunting-http://al-alex-alexander-d-girvan.blogspot.com/2010/02/native-hunting.html

Recipe, Real Pemmican: THE Original, WORLD WIDE "Trail-Mix" or Emergency Food

Pemmican was the original, WORLD WIDE "Trail-Mix" or emergency food; it was not invented in the United States, by indigenous North American peoples, or even in the Americas.

Pemmican is best made in August.

1. First dry the meat, as I have described in The Story of Pemmican post.

2. Cook meat in boiling water for about 10 minutes. Pound well with hammer and mix with marrow or grease.

3. Add berries or diced onions if you like.

4. Put pemmican into those ever useful freezer bags.

5. Freeze; cut in slices.

A MODERN Recipe, for the WEEKEND, ADVENTURE/REALITY GAME type survivor:
Makes 6 cups.
3 Tbsps. salted butter???
3 Tbsps. brown sugar???
!/4 tsp. powdered ginger???
1/4 tsp. ground cloves???
1/4 tsp. ground cinnamon ???
4 cups beef jerky, ground into small pieces
1/2 cup cut almonds, walnuts, or hazelnuts (definitely optional)
!/2 cup sunflower seeds??? (again, definitely optional)

For other recipes treat moose, caribou, elk, bear, sheep, or goat meat as if it were beef, but please remember – Because of the usual low fat content, by preference, game meat is seldom ever broiled or roasted. Bear meat should be cooked thoroughly as for pork.

WOOD BISON

THE WOOD BISON,Bison bison athabascue, also called Mountain Bison is a distinct northern subspecies of the North American bison and  are truly the Canadian  bison. It's original range included much of the boreal forest regions from the southern tip of Alaska,through the Yukon and Northwest Territories, north eastern British Columbia, northern Alberta and western Saskatchewan.

The Wood Bison differs from the Plains Bison in a number of important ways. Most notably, the Wood Bison is heavier, with large males weighing over 2500 pounds. The highest point of the Wood Bison is well ahead of it's front legs, while the Plains Bison's highest point is directly above the front legs. Wood bison also have larger horn cores, a darker and woollier pellagra, and less hair on their forelegs and beard. Wood Bison do not migrate north and south as do the Plains Bison.

UNFORTUNATELY: PROFESSIONAL PHOTOGRAPHERS DO NOT ALWAYS KNOW THE DIFFERENCE AND I HAVE SEEN THE SAME PHOTO TAGGED AS BOTH A PLAINS BISON AND A WOODS BISON--THE PHOTO I REFER TO HAVING BEEN TAKEN IN ELK ISLAND NATIONAL PARK ALBERTA CANADA.