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Saturday 29 November 2014

Emergency/Survival Style, Trout rig Setups (Lure Rigging)


Although of course, the rigs I describe are used in recreational, sport fishing, and by the Week End Survivor. They will not always be available in a true Emergency/Survival situation; but having the right trout rigs; or at least knowing how to set one up can give you a big advantage-and possibly be enough to save your life. Many will argue that learning how to make trout rigs is not important and about what is the best type of setup is for being the most effective on the water. Here I am going to show you a couple of ways to setup relatively simple trout rigs that WILL ENABLE YOU to land fish and thereby secure a food supply.
First, Let’s Talk About Different Trout Rigs.
If you are going to be fishing in a lake, probably, the best way to setup a trout rig is by using floating bait and a sliding sinker.
This may sound and even look complicated, but I assure you it is not hard-this rig is very similar to the rig most commonly used in Steelhead fishing(a steelhead is after all simply a rainbow trout that has been, at least once, in salt water). Take your fishing like and slip it onto your sinker (you should get one that is shaped similar to an egg). Now, attach that to a barrel swivel. Take that small trout rig and attach it right to 4lb test line giving yourself about 15-28 inches in length. Make sure to use a lightweight egg shaped sinker, which should allow you to cast farther out giving you the best advantage over the fish. There you have it, the simple yet effective trout rig. Easy. Here are a couple of diagrams to show how to set up rigs for most any fresh water fishing.
The first and most common is to use a bobber, or float. You can use a traditional round plastic bobber or an in line (steel head) float. Both work and there isn’t any big advantage in using one over other. The only difference would be the fact that you can fill the in line float bobber with water which allows you to cast further giving you the most precise locations. After casting out, just sit and wait. Not much in the way of entertainment, you just wait for the fish to come and take the bait.
The second and my favourite method is to do the “dance” as some call it. Simply take your rig - fasten it to your line- and cast out. Allow your rig to sink down in the water-reel it in at a slow (not extremely) speed-as you reel in, move the rod from side to side and up and down-allow the jig to lose momentum after each pull. This appears to be more realistic to the fish, and usually yields fantastic results.
 Lure Rigging
If you plan to use a lure, then you have a couple of options. Lures are great for beginners because they rely a lot more on trial, and error, than anything else does. You simply cast out and make sure your lure does not sink too far down. If your lure snags; then, you need to first use lighter weights, and to reel in faster, preventing  it from settling right on the bottom. Lure fishing really is simple. Just tie up your lure, cast off and hope for the best.
Another trout rig is The Night Crawler Rig. It also is super simple, and highly effective. Go to your local store and pick up some bait holder hooks, size 6-10 short shank fishing hooks work best (of course in an emergency, use anything you have or that you are able to somehow fashion.
The recreational, sport or weekend survivor angler will want to pick up a worm inflator. A worm inflator is, essentially, a tool (like a hypodermic needle) that allows you to put a small amount of air into the worm. This allows you to cast it out and not have your bait come to sit on the bottom. This rig is one of my favourites for most any kind of-including trout- fishing and I always seem to do well with it. Attach your worm just under the skin and use your worm inflator as the instructions state (or, use a float and adjust the leader length.
Make sure, if possible (rancid fat, spoiling meat or fish, night crawlers or other worms that have been tightly bagged and left out in the sun for a spell) to in some way scent your bait. It will make a difference and you do not want to be casting out with your bait covered in human scent.
There are two general methods on how to use trout rigs. The first is to cast out past your desired location. Allow the bait to settle, and then slowly move it toward the quarry. The second method is a more traditional one. Cast out and allow the bait to sit in one spot. The idea here is that you want the trout to come and find the bait by using a more natural approach.
WHEN YOU SEE THE LINE START TO SHAKE, GET READY TO SET THE HOOK AND REEL IT IN!
Insider Tip:
A good rule of thumb when it comes to setting trout rigs is to move your lure slower when in colder waters and at a moderate speed at higher temperature. Of course, this is not always true but it should give you some good trout fishing guidance.
Final Thoughts:
– Adjusting the weight and setup of your trout rigs can determine at what speed and how fast your cast will go
– Learn the “dance” and become the envy of some of the most seasoned anglers.
-Remember that the temperature should control how fast or slow you should reel your rig.
-There is no one method that is better than all other methods; always, use a combination of rigs, and techniques, for the best results ©Al (Alex-Alexander) D. Girvan. All rights reserved.

Wednesday 12 November 2014

What Is Hypothermia?

Used as a prefix, ‘hypo-’ means ‘under’ or ‘below normal’.  So hypothermia means below normal temperature.    
When you are awake, your body needs to maintain a core temperature of approximately 37oC (98.6oF).  This is sometimes referred to as ‘normothermia’, i.e. your normal temperature.   
Medically, hypothermia is defined as a body core temperature below 35oC (95oF).  This represents a 2oC (3.6oF) drop from normal body core temperature.  This allows for normal temperature fluctuations that occur through a 24 hour period, including temperature changes in your body while you sleep. 

In reality, however, if someone is awake, normally fit and healthy and has a body core temperature of 35oC (95oF) in a remote outdoors setting, they are likely to be in trouble already.  If they still have the energy they may well be shivering violently.  In the outdoors, you need to do something about a falling body core temperature before it gets to this stage.  We need to look for signs and symptoms of hypothermia in our companions.  Learning to recognise the signs and symptoms – and recognise them early – is very important--at any time--not just in disaster/survival situations. ©Al (Alex-Alexander)D Girvan. All rights reserved.