Survival- the Rules Therefore the Methods Were NOT Developed by the Military

I have very little interest in ANY military survival tactics--because the military did not invent any SURVIVAL  tactics. The job of the military--the job of the soldier is to KILL and to make sure that others do not live. On the other hand, indigenous peoples, world round, have been inventing and developing SURVIVAL-- to make sure that people DO live-- methods ever since the HUMAN species evolved. The "Mother" provided all things necessary to SURVIVE-- but all man really had to do was pay attention: look, listen, and learn. Survival is not about destruction, nor is it about building--it is about filling a niche--adhering to Mother's laws, so that all may live--all may survive. When I use the word all,  I'm not only talking about man, I'm not only talking about this planet earth -- I am talking about all of Mother's creation.All too often lately, I see men and women, dressed in army surplus, camouflage uniforms, practising hand to hand combat manoeuvres,or rapid fire with a semi-automatic side arm, or is some cases using an actual assault weapon. I see young people playing video games supposedly based on fire-fight situations.These people claim they are training for SURVIVAL.This is not survival training--it is combat training--focused on death, destruction and killing. This is training to be a soldier in war-fare--the very opposite of survival training which teaches how to live--NOT HOW TO DIE.

THE MILITARY SIMPLY ADOPTED--OFTEN VERY POORLY--TACTICS, AND PRINCIPLES, THAT ALREADY EXISTED AND THAT WERE IN COMMON USE.
The old hand-book DOWN BUT NOT OUT, used by the RCAF and RAF, contained actual SURVIVAL,  INFORMATION--how to stay alive--some adopted from ancient methods, some--especially COLD WEATHER SURVIVAL--adopted (taken-if anyone ever had a copyright on this material, it would be the Inuit) from the methods used by Canada's Inuit--previously known only to them (traditionally,they did not get along well with Canada's other indigenous peoples, so the information was not commonly shared).

THE METHODS I HAVE POSTED ARE NOT MILITARY ORIENTATED, THEY ARE INTENDED TO ALLOW YOU TO COPE WITH AND SURVIVE A NATURAL DISASTER; OR WHENEVER YOU FIND YOURSELF IN ANY SURVIVAL SITUATION.

©

The End of Civilization, As WE Know it--a Little Early but as Predicted

I am known to be very strongly opinionated and some would say old-fashioned--thank The Mother-Nature for that. I do not join causes and I try to look past the symptoms TO THE REASON or reasons. I look for the WHY. For example: while many express concerns over climate change, the environment, food shortages, health, housing, increased crime, or world peace; I am more concerned about HUMAN over population. This is the real, world wide, problem and the cause of these other concerns which are merely symptoms. From the year: 1990-over 60% of the population in most impoverished (highly over populated countries) was between 10 and 14 years of age and is now into the reproductive years. What do you think is going to happen by the year 2012? Our own country is not immune; many of us still want a large family, and because of a ridiculous belief that a large population is necessary for a healthy economy, we are rapidly becoming over populated. LOOK at the problems faced by every large city (especially Toronto and Vancouver) across this great country; what is the maincause-not symptom? I truly believe and, if you are willing to give an honest evaluation; you must too; that the greatest to our planet and mans very existence or survival (biologically, economically, environmentally, morally, or spiritually) is and always has been over population (or, if you prefer,Man. It is and was largely because of this never ending problem that the "New World" was discovered and we entered into space travel. " The reason for all the disease,famine,starvation, storms and war-fare... is that it is The Mother's (Nature) way of getting back at Man; for his utter greed, complete stupidity, and boastful arrogance.

Check out the European and US economic crisis, NAITO Attack In Pakistan, News Headlines, the "Occupy" protests, revolts against governments, other US lead MILITARY AGGRESSION world wide; flooding and other natural disasters--caused primarily by climate change--caused primarily by over HUMAN population, It's happened, the end of civilization, as we knew it, just as predicted http://cookingforsurvival--yourdownbutnotout.blogspot.com/2010/09/end-of-civilization-as-we-know-it.html

Irish Griddle Scones-Scottish Scones

                    2 cups  flour                             

                   3 tsp baking powder                      

                   1 tsp salt                               

                   1/4 cup cold shortening           

                         2/3 cup cold milk

*Irish Griddle Scones--Roll dough into 2 circles 1/2 inch thick. Cut into wedges and bake on a hot griddle, turning to brown both sides. Split scones while hot, spread with softened butter and place in oven to melt butter.

*Scottish Scones-- Sift together 2 cups flour, 2 tsp. each of baking powder and sugar, and 1/2 tsp. salt.  Cut in 1/4 cup butter. Beat 2 eggs, reserving a little unbeaten egg white. Add the beaten eggs and 1/3 cup light cream to the flour mixture. Toss the dough on a floured board and pat or roll it 3/4 inch thick. Cut the dough into squares, brush them with the reserved egg white, and sprinkle them with sugar. Bake the scones in a hot oven (400 F. for 15 minutes. Finish and serve as above.

©

Voles, Mice and Lemmings

House Mouse--This image is Public Domain

House Mouse

SOURCE: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Mausprofil.jpgThis photo is also public domain

  Vole (although often called a Field Mouse, it is not a mouse)--http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Bank_vole.jpg

Lemming--http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Tunturisopuli_Lemmus_Lemmus.jpg

Many of you may have read the book Never Cry Wolf by Farley Mowat or perhaps you have seen the movie. The book is about a scientist who spends a year on the Mackenzie Delta (the home range of the worlds largest caribou herd); in an attempt to prove that wolves are not the wanton killers of caribou and are not responsible for decimating the herd as has been commonly claimed.

           In his attempt to do this he examines the scats of many wolves. Most of these scats contain no caribou remains whatever but do contain voles, mice and lemmings. He also shows that caribou being a migratory animal are often not to be found in the region, by wolf or man. In order to further substantiate his theories about wolves and their diet he lives for the entire year on a diet of mice and lemmings, which he eats whole.

            Both the book and the movie are excellent and can do much to change the thinking of the uninitiated or mis-informed. Unfortunately what both the book and the movie fail to mention is that the real indigenous peoples of the barrens often were forced to subsist on exactly the same diet. ©

Braised Ground Squirrel (gopher):

Of course, marmots, ground hogs, prairie dogs, tree squirrels, hares, rabbits, or even birds, can be substituted, instead of ground squirrels; it all depends on what is available at the time, in the area.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Flickertail1.JPG

Braised Ground Squirrel (gopher):

1. Skin squirrels, being careful not to take off too much of the fat; then clean stomach; cut off head and feet.

            2. Cut into pieces and shake in a bag of flour, as you do with chicken.

3. Brown in deep fat

4. When brown add boiling water and simmer 10 minutes.

5. Add onions, carrots and celery, a pinch of sage and potatoes if you wish.

6. Cook until tender; make sure gravy doesn't get too thick.
For more recipes; see also: Gopher, Ground Squirrel
©Al (Alex, Alexander) D Girvan. All rights reserved.

BEAVER, RECIPES--beaver meat and beaver tail were considered a delicacy to Europeans, about the most expensive in the world.

Although it most closely resembles pork; beaver meat is rich and dark.
While wild beaver may on occasion contain tularaemia contamination this is very unlikely to be true of the small kits or the small beaver that have been specially farmed as a gourmet food item. So, looking at the whole and complete picture; beaver meat is undoubtedly far safer to consume than any of the beef; or other meat products; that you are purchasing from Canadian Supermarkets; all of which are very likely to contain e-coli, salmonella, or other, contaminants.
I have found one website that claims it was part of their Alaskan Culinary Challenge to prepare and feed beaver meat to at least one other person. I find this to be rather strange; considering that because there are few Aspen Poplar to be found in most of Alaska; there are; and were; very few beaver. Such a  dish would not represent Alaska or Alaskan  life; in any conceivable way. TheWild, Canadian beaver can weigh upwards of sixty (60) pounds

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:American_Beaver.jpg

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:AmericanBeaver.JPG

Beaver

Beaver are the semi aquatic rodents that literally "built" Canada.  
Beaver pelts were the main currency,

beaver meat and beaver tail -a food staple of native Canadians-were considered a delicacy to Europeans, and were also about 

the most expensive meat in the world. 

Beaver like the Hudson’s Bay Company are an intrinsic part of Canadian heritage; of what Canada was and should still be today. We have sold the Hudson's bay to the United States Of the Americas-let us not sell-out the "CANADIAN" beaver.

There are only two kinds of beavers, in the world, the Canadian or North American beaver (castor Canadensis) and the Eurasian beaver. The two species are similar and specimens of both as heavy as 90 lbs. have been found. The average adult weighs about 35 lbs. The Canadian beaver was the first of this country’s natural resources to be exploited, in this case by the Europeans. At one time, beaver pelts were the unit of currency in the new world.

            If the pelt is to be prepared for market, care should be taken in skinning the animal. Lay the beaver on its back and cut the legs off at the first joint. Then, with a sharp knife, slit the pelt starting at the lower lip. Insert the knife in this slit and with the sharp edge up cut the pelt in a straight line down through the chest and belly to the vent. Work out from this centre line cut and with short strokes separate the skin from the flesh. Carefully pull the legs through the skin leaving four round holes in the pelt. Cut off the tail where it meets the fur. Skin carefully around the eyes and cut off the ears close to the skull. Finish removing the pelt taking as little flesh and fat as possible, then lay it on a flat surface, fur side down, and sponge off all the blood marks with lukewarm water.

            Cut the head off and eviscerate: make a cut through the thin layer of meat from the breast bone to the vent, encircling the vent and being careful not to pierce the intestines. Lay the body cavity open and remove the viscera by grasping above the stomach and pulling down and out from the cavity. Carefully cut out the musk glands from under the skin on the inside of the legs and be sure to remove the castor gland under the belly near the tail (The scent taken from this gland is used by trappers). Trim off all the fat and wash the carcass thoroughly with warm salted water.

 Roast Beaver:

Treat exactly as roast pork; to which, when properly prepared, it is very, similar; so much so that I have served beaver meat; then been asked for my delicious pork recipes. I have read that beaver is similar to venison; but not knowing to which; venison, they were referring;  found it to be, a little, confusing. As any of my faithful followers already know; there is considerable difference in colour, fat content, flavour and texture of the meats from different members of the deer family. Elk meat for example, bears little similarity to that of a white tail or caribou.

            Braised or Stewed Beaver:

1. Clean beaver, and strip off all fat, including scent glands. Soak in water to cover with 1/4 cup vinegar, overnight.

2. Wash meat; pat dry, and place on rack in a braising pan: add 1/4 cup water.

3. Brush meat with butter; cover and braise in a moderate oven.

4. Take the cover off the braising pan, when meat is half cooked, add a cup of vegetables, finely diced. The vegetables should include onion, celery, carrots, and maybe a turnip.

5. Finish cooking with lid off, adding more water if necessary until the meat begins to fall from the bones.
For stewed beaver, simply use a larger cut on the vegetables, more stock, and a pot, instead of a braising pan (covered "roaster").

 Beaver Tail:

To Epicurean Gourmets, Eurasian  and Canadians this portion of the animal was considered the greatest, and it was once considered a real delicacy in fine restaurants world wide

Hold over open flame until rough skin blisters. Remove from heat. When cool, peel off skin. Roast over coals or simmer until tender

OR

Broil tail in a very hot oven; then cut it open and pull the skin off.

This makes a very rich meat 
©Al (Alex-Alexander) D Girvan,. All rights reserved.

SLINGS AND SLINGSHOTS

Slings are mentioned in the bible; (David and Goliath as a military weapon), and they are very simple to manufacture. You can make a  sling by tying two pieces of cordage, about two to three feet long, at opposite ends of a palm-sized piece of leather or cloth. That's all there is to it. So, they must represent a very practical and serviceable  tool and weapon--right!

Yea, Right!

They require room to use; and so, are not of much use in the bush.To use, place a piece of rock or a small stone in the cloth or leather pouch and wrap one cord around the middle finger and hold it in your palm. Hold the other cord between the forefinger and thumb. To throw the rock, spin the sling several times in a circle and release the cord between the thumb and forefinger. Practice to gain proficiency.

PROBLEM--this may take years--but when, and IF, you gain proficiency; the sling can be very effective, against smaller game, in an open field.

So, How About a Sling-shot?
Everyone knows that they can be very accurate, and they can be very powerful. They do not require a lot of practice-- not as much as a sling--after-all, a few years ago, every young boy carried one.

But, you are in a survival situation--not on a reality TV show--rubber inner-tubes are now almost extinct. Did you think to pack a sling-shot; or at least some rubber tubing, and some steel balls in your survival kit?Yea, I know you would have; this little reminder is for the "other" 99,999% of week-end adventure, bushcrafters,survivors that would not have.

Quoted ,From Other Websites:

“Before this weekend’s bushcraft, survival, camping trip, I was in my local supply center. I was going to pick up one of their daisy slingshots, so I could take it camping with me. When I got to the counter to pay, I was asked for my driver’s license. I am clearly over 18, so I decided to ask about this process.

The cashier informed me that this wasn't just for age verification, but that they entered your license number and details into the system and it was tracked by State Police. Ok…what the heck? Needless to say I don’t like that, so I didn’t buy that slingshot. Here I am now, in the forest. I have a Swiss Army knife, a Leatherman Wingman and NO SLINGSHOT.

What would I ever do now? I know…

 I’ll make a bushcraft survival slingshot.

 First things first.

 I needed to find a forked branch. I found one and used the saw on my Swiss Army Knife Hiker to saw it off the remainder of the branch. Once that was done, I had my bushcraft survival slingshot frame.

We’ve now come to the more challenging part. Where in the world could I find something rubbery or springy for my bushcraft ,survival, slingshot propulsion system? I decided to hike back up to the road, and walk along it to see if I could find some litter or discarded auto parts that might fit the bill. After hiking along the road for a little over an hour, I came across a bicycle inner tube. Not exactly what I was looking for, but it “should” work. I put the inner tube in my outer pack pocket and headed back towards camp.

I kept my eyes open on the way back to camp for any method I could use to fasten the inner tube to the bushcraft, survival slingshot frame. As I was walking past a fence row, I spied a spool of some type of metal wire. It wasn’t mine, but I did stop and snip off about 12 inches of it with my Wingman multi-tool, and stashed it in my pack also. Once I got back to camp I started looking at the bushcraft , survival slingshot frame, the inner tube and the wire to see how I could make this all come together. I cut the inner tube to about 12 inches and wrapped each end around a twig, then pinched the wrapped end with some wire so that the tube couldn’t unwrap from the twigs on the ends. Then I held the bushcraft  survival slingshot frame and used the saw, from my Swiss Army Knife, to slot the arms of the slingshot, so I could slide the inner tube into them. The twigs, wrapped in the end of the inner tube, prevented the inner tube from sliding back through the slots in the arms. After wrapping the top of the arms of my bushcraft, survival slingshot with wire, to keep the inner tube from sliding up out of the slots in the arms, I was holding a fully functional bushcraft , survival slingshot.”

“Could you survive in the wilderness with only a sling shot as your weapon?

Lots would depend on your survivability. Having a means to harvest protein and animal fat would surely increase your chances.

In a perfect world, the sling shot would not be my first choice. But having options makes one more robust.”

Due to their inconsistent shape, stones tend to curve or slide off target-EVEN AN EXPERT MARKSMAN, IF USING THEM, WOULD BE UNLIKELY TO BAG ANY GAME.

How About an Arrow Throwing Sling Shot? Remember, you are lost; or in A Real Disaster, Survival Situation, you do not have a trailer load of supplies; just what you can carry and have on your person.

An Arrow Throwing Slingshot.

Note: The ring acts as an arrow support. When fired, the arrows pass through it. The ring is not intended to be used as a sight.

It must be noted: REAL “bush craft survival tools”  (all are IN REALITY the hand tools used by early pioneers, settlers, survivors, homesteaders,handymen, farmers, craftsman, stumble bums and ordinary citizens. they are NOT  play toys for macho types--kids; who never grew up. All are very, very, dangerous-can be dangerous to human life or detrimental to survival. All are illegal to use in Canada and or other CIVILIZED counties, except in extreme emergency. All must be clearly marked during the period of use; and must be dismantled immediately after the emergency situation is over. IF YOU ARE USING ANY OF THESE TOOLS TO TRAP OR KILL GAME, UNDER THE GUISE OF PRACTISING BUSHCRAFT, YOU COULD, AND SHOULD BE, CHARGED WITH ANIMAL ABUSE, DANGEROUS ACTIVITY-POTENTIALLY CAUSING HUMAN HARM, AND SEVERAL OTHER THINGS UNDER THE FISH AND WILDLIFE ACT.
 © Al (Alex, Alexander) D. Girvan

PRACTICAL/USABLE, KNIVES, POINTS, AND TOOLS; PLUS TWO KNOTS

Regular readers are well aware that I am not, at all, impressed or influenced by ALL THE BULL CRAP SO WIDELY CIRCULATED ON MOST WEBSITES, ON MOST SUBJECTS. Usually, the writers have no real knowledge, they are just recirculating advertising/merchancising propeganda. As for the subject of Survival; MOST OF THESE GUYS WOULD NEVER SURVIVE, IN A REAL SURVIVAL SITUATION. On both counts, this post serves, very well, to illustrate, just, why I'm not.

http://ushistoryimages.com/native-american-weapons.shtm

While an axe; especially a light 1 1/4 pound, belt/hand axe, light enough to carry easily; yet heavy enough to do the work it is intended to do-- that of chopping, driving stakes, and splitting wood; and a military type folding belt shovel is great--- for the light, digging, chores;

you can usually break the firewood you need, through the use of two conveniently spaced trees(avoid using a tree crotch; which will pry the crotch apart and leave the tree open to disease, fungal and insect infestation)with your hands; so, there will not, really,  be any necessity to do a great deal of chopping, (Canada's truly Indigenous peoples did very little). And, other improvised tools can be used to dig, drive stakes, or even piles--if you ever have occasion that you wish to do so but i can not imagine why you ever would in a survival situation. 
A knife therefore is your second-third fiftyith-hundredth-most valuable tool (after what ever else is FIRST-needed-Aid)  in any survival/disaster situation. 

Still, however, the wise man or woman always carries at least a top quality "stock-man" knife, pictured top, or other knife; (without a lot of cumbersome gadgets; and not designed for easy conversion into a spear point--a knife is meant for cutting, puncturing, or slicing--you do not CHOP--even meat or vegetables-- and you do not ever, ever, ever, throw them.) on their person at all times and they keep it razor sharp (when quality knives are now so readily available; why would they not? A good sharp knife can be a valuable survival aid, if and only if, used thoughtfully, and properly).
When I was in the Arctic I carried a somewhat larger folding knife that also had a saw blade (pictured bottom). I have used the saw blade to cut through wood as large as a 2x4. While not perfect by any means, (short and stiff) the cutting blade is usable as a game dressing, muscle boning, skinning knife. My main job while in the Arctic was camp cook, so I usually had several other knives readily available; non the less, I have used the knife pictured to fillet Arctic char and had no problem in doing so with no loss of meat.

While, as previously mentioned, a light belt/hand or other axe, with up to a two pound head, can be very handy in any camping, and,or, survival situation; LARGER HEAVIER AXES which are designed for cutting larger logs in long term, and, or, pioneering, projects ARE NOT REALLY TOOLS FOR BUSHCRAFT/disaster/emergency SURVIVAL. 

Machetes are designed and primarily used to slash away heavy undergrowth. In CANADA, in a disaster, or an emergency survival situation, a much more compact and easier to carry meat cleaver (I was Cook and First -aid Man)will do almost as well as either an axe or machete.

REMEMBER, BECAUSE YOU NEED TO, AND WILL WANT TO; KEEP IT WITH YOU AT ALL TIMES; YOU WILL HAVE TO BE ABLE TO CARRY ALL YOUR EQUIPMENT.
It must be noted these “bush craft survival tools” are not toys for macho types; or for kids; who never grew up. All are very, very, dangerous-can be dangerous to human life or detrimental to survival. All are illegal to use in Canada and or other CIVILIZED counties, except in extreme emergency. All must be clearly marked during the period of use; and must be dismantled immediately after the emergency situation is over. IF YOU ARE USING ANY OF THESE TOOLS TO TRAP OR KILL GAME, UNDER THE GUISE OF PRACTISING BUSHCRAFT, YOU COULD, AND SHOULD BE, CHARGED WITH ANIMAL ABUSE, DANGEROUS ACTIVITY-POTENTIALLY CAUSING HUMAN HARM, AND SEVERAL OTHER THINGS UNDER THE FISH AND WILDLIFE ACT.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN  A "FIELD KNIFE"
First, always remember, as indicated by the following paragraph; much of the advice out there is pure bull-shit.
"What you want is a full tang knife made of high carbon steel with a 4-6" flat or convex grind drop or spear point blade with a synthetic handle. A full tang is when the knife blade extends the full length and width of the handle and is by far the strongest design. High carbon steel is stronger than stainless steel because it does not contain chrome which weakens the steel. Of course there are some amazingly strong modern stainless steels out there, so the general rule breaks down. However, high carbon is easier to sharpen in the field. The drawback is that it rusts if not kept dry and oiled. A 4-6" blade is the best all around length if you are only carrying one knife. Flat or convex grinds have stronger edges. I prefer a drop or spear point blade because of its tip strength."

Actually, a field knife or ANY KNIFE does NOT have to be extremely tough; which means- that while you will be wise to avoid certain features which could compromise a knife under duress, do not get fanatical about it.

Here are some you might want to avoid: hollow, plastic or synthetic handles, cumbersome knives with a lot of unnecessary gadgets, heavy knives, extremely thin, pointy tips (this does not include the extremely practical and useful, double edged, Commando- knives  of the First, and Second, World Wars; that gave the British, Canadian and "The Devil's Brigade"a reputation of being the best in the world), partial  or bolt tangs, serrated edges. 

1. Many synthetic knife handles are actually hollow. For a hollow handled knife, the cylinder has to be bonded, or welded, onto the blade; a bond which could be extremely weak.
2. A heavy knife is awkward, impractical, and tiresome to use--it will just pull your pants down.
3.  With a clip point or other narrow profile blade you could break off the tip; but then; the knife should not be used as a pry-bar in the first place and a narrow, flexible, blade is very useful, for dressing an animal, bird, or fish (muscle boning or filleting).
4.  Partial or bolt tangs could break the handle. But, properly used, a bolt tang will also enable the replacement of that broken handle and, the tightening of any; loose handle. 
5.  While they are somewhat easier to clean, ridged  " Sheath" knives are, primarily, "status symbols"; A quality folding knife should never fail  you, nor will you easily loose it- if -like the ridged sheath knife, it is also kept in a belt case. 
6. The edge on a hollow ground blade is no weaker than any other truely sharp edge; but, the hollow grind, while being slightly harder to sharpen,  may,ultimately, allow you to get a "keener" edge. 
7. Leather or wood handles DO NOT become slippery in the rain which is why they were the handles of choice for military knives and bayonets.
8. Leather handles are usually made with bolt tangs BECAUSE, they can  be tightened, should the leather become dry and shrink. All wood handles, no matter how hard the tree species, are susceptible to breakage but so are synthetic handles, if the knife is misused. Knives are not meant to be used as a splitting wedge or with a batton.
9. Be aware, serrated edges cannot be sharpened in the field and are difficult to sharpen at home.
10. Even a "Field Knife" does not have to be tough but if it did; there is NO noticeable difference  in the strength of stainless steel and carbon steel blades. Stainless steel is harder then carbon steel; so it will take longer, and be slightly more difficult to sharpen to a really keen edge; another but; it will keep that really keen edge longer than a carbon steel blade-one reason stainless steel in so often used in lumber mills-and why carbon steel is now virtually obsolete.

Imagine being in a survival situation without any equipment or tools except your knife.You might even be without a knife(it could and often does happen). You would probably feel very helpless.
With the proper knowledge, preparation and skills, while it may not-will not- be easy, you CAN IMPROVISE needed items. Out of necessity, you may HAVE TO fashion any number and type of tools and/or equipment.
Improvised equipment and tools may serve many purposes. They can provide a sense of accomplishment and hope. They can make life much easier and comfortable.THEY CAN ALLOW YOU TO SURVIVE. 
Improvised cutting implements, of any type, are best fashioned out of bone (from a large bird, if available) 1.quickly made, using any of several different methods 2. will handle most tcutting tasks reasonably well 3.easily resharpenable, again, by using several different methods. 4. much easier to obtain than ANY SUITABLE stone.

CLUBS
A club can have many uses. Here, we are concerned  with survival  and the TOOLS of SURVIVAL (life), not with the military or military weapons of death. We are concerned with REAL survival situations (you know, the type you are most apt to find yourself in); situations where clubs are used as a camp tool (hammer).  You hold clubs, you jab or trust with them-- you swing them(most often to drive stakes--you do not normally throw them. 
Simple Club
A simple club is a staff or branch. It must be short enough for you to swing easily, but long enough to provide some leverage and strong enough to serve the intended purpose.
Weighted Club
A weighted club is any simple club with a weight on one end. The weight may be a natural weight, such as a knot on the wood (the famous Irish shillelagh), or something added such as a stone lashed to the club. A stone with a sight hourglass shape works best. If you cannot find a suitably shaped stone, you can fashion a grove or  channel into the stone by a technique known as pecking (from the chicken or wood pecker). By repeatedly pecking the head stone with a smaller hard stone, you will eventually get the desired shape. The "tomahawk"(see illustration below), used by early North American natives, and often referred to as an axe, was really a just a club with a more, or less, sharpened striking surfaces--a stone axe is not really suited for felling trees.
There are three techniques for lashing a stone hammer head to the handle.

NOTE: DO NOT  attempt to lash and tie the head stone to the handle using knots as illustrated,(you will not be able to tie the knots or lashing near tight enough and it will come undone---whoever drew this diagram, originally, knew very little about the subject) as shown in the above diagram--use instead the WHIPPING METHOD diagrammed below. The simple or weighted clubs are the only ones practical in a survival situation

This is the same method  used to: "whip" the ends of cordage or rope, and since pre-historic times, by farmers, to tie grain or storage bags. It is also, with very little alteration, variation, or in the case of the double; addition; the very same knot that anglers refer to as a bait/egg loop, when fishing for Arctic Char, Northern  Pike, Pickerel Perch, Salmon, Steelhead; actually most any predatory fish.

The Single Bait/Egg Loop Knot is the  same knot that is used to "whip the ends of cordage or rope.

The Double Bait/Egg Loop Knot

© Above 5 images , Al (Alex-Alexander) D. Girvan. All Rights Reserved

Note:My apologies, some of you may have tried tying this knot and run into problems. This would be because at image 3, I inadvertently neglected a step in my original instructions. TO THIS POINT YOU HAVE A BASIC, SIMPLE, WHIPPING KNOT.
BRING YOUR LINE THROUGH THAT INITIAL LOOP YOU MADE; BEFORE GOING THROUGH THE HOOK EYE; OTHERWISE KNOT WILL COME APART.  Unlike the conventional Egg Loop Knot, this knot has a bait or egg loop as part of the knot-plus the loop formed when the leader is passed through the eye of the hook the second time.(shown in image 5).

©Al (Alex-Alexander) D Girvan. All rights reserved.

I add two more steps, as shown above, (long leader line, now cinched controls front loop; short line the second loop-- near yellow label)which I find holds my bait better; but I know of nobody else that does so:

1. Bring leader length back and pass it under bait loop.
2. Pass it. once again, through the hook eye.

Whether you are Fashioning a axe or club, tying a grain sack, hang man's knot, whipping the end of a rope to prevent ravelling,   tying a single or double egg loop fishing knot; while, they may look some what different, at first glance, they are, basically, all the same knot.  Use them well, and for the purposes intended. Save yourself a lot of grief.

SPEARS
Like clubs, spears are used for thrusting; not throwing. In a survival situation, spears do not have  many practical uses--used mainly  for fishing. Therefore, while points may be attached, they are not really necessary and involve extra time and work better used to accomplish something else--more worthwhile.

KNIVES AND POINTS
NOTE: Some stones such as chert, flint, obsidian, or quartz can have and hold edges very much sharper than the finest steel razors but they chip or break easily. In a short term survival situation, their usefulness is not worth the labour or work required to produce them..
BARK
Bark is easily shaped and it can be heat tempered to take and hold (almost glass-- or at least about the same hardness as copper or bronze) to take and hold a keen edge. A knife made from bark can work very well for slicing--they will even cut through wood.
BONE
Bone, like bark is relatively easily shaped. Some bone, like bark, will take a very keen edge, and like bark, some bone can be further heat tempered but they are usually not as brittle and do not chip or break as easily as stone. It is amazing just how rugged and serviceable they can be.
While whale bone, if, and where, available, is very, very, versatile; generally speaking, the best bone for knives, needles, or points comes from sea birds, poultry, or the smaller animals (quite similar to poultry bones, the bones of a fox are good). Bones from larger animals (excluding horn or antler) are often softer and do not hold an edge as well.
WOOD
Like bark or bone, wood is easily shaped and can be tempered; but wood (except bamboo, which is a grass, not a true wood and is not generally available in most areas of Canada) still will not hold a keen edge. However, for most POINTS; wood is all that is really necessary.
NOTE: While in most survival situations you would not be using  arrows-when arrows are used to shoot birds and small game they are usually blunt, with no point at all-.for very practical reasons, they are easier to recover but still do the job.

FIRE HARDENING/HEAT TEMPERING
Bark bone, or wood can all be hardened or tempered using high heat. If a fire is possible, dry the blade portion over the fire (or other dry, high, heat source, hotter the better, until the bark, bone, or wood (or minerals and resins there in) actually start to melt; but do not allow the material to char,(burning,charring= oxidation)will actually break down and soften the surface of the bark, bone, or wood and render it less suitable for your intended purpose.
© Al (Alex, Alexander) D. Girvan-2012 All rights reserved

Bison--The Nature of The Animal

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DO NOT HONK YOUR CAR HORN AT A BISON. 

 YOU DO NOT ATTEMPT TO CHASE THEM OFF THE ROAD

This road sign depicts what will happen if your vehicle should encounter a bison head-on. 

The first thoroughfares of North America , except for the time-obliterated paths of mastodon or musk-ox were the traces made by bison and deer in seasonal migration between feeding grounds and salt licks. Many of these routes, hammered by countless hoofs instinctively following watersheds and the crests of ridges in avoidance of lower places, summer muck, and winter snowdrifts, were followed by the natives as courses to hunting grounds and as warrior's paths they were invaluable to explorers, were adopted by pioneers and many became our modern highways.

As massive and bulky as they appear, many people--especially Hollywood Movie Producers, some artists, and politicly motivated historians--are under the impression that bison are delicate, slow, stupid and awkward.
Nothing could be further from the truth
In REALITY, bison can outrun and easily out-manoeuvre horses. They have the agility of a mountain goat. And if on the run, they can, just as easily, break through seemingly adequate corrals that hold the biggest and strongest cattle--but then bison are far from being dumb cattle.
Instead of running, or stampeding, as many might suppose; bison will often stand and face, or as early rail-roads quickly found out, ATTACK their attackers--they were responsible for more than one TRAIN derailment.
Bison are very protective and operate as a group when threatened. They face into the threat and back each other up

 Well-known and admired for their stamina,when they do run, bison are lightening fast and can turn on half of a dime. 
Unlike horses they can run for many miles, sprint at upwards of 40-miles per hour, and have the ability to jump straight up from a complete standstill. 
Much like that mountain goat, a bison can traverse rough, rocky terrain. At the same time, they are content on the flat prairies or in the wooded-areas that many Canadian bison call home.

Although bison normally appear quite docile and may even allow predators or people to approach them, they are very unpredictable and will charge predators, people, or machines in the blink of an eye. You DO NOT honk a car horn at a bison and you definitely do not attempt to chase one off the road.
Nearly five times as many people are killed or seriously injured each year in North America by bison as by all predators combined.
They can pivot instantly on their hind legs as well as the front and contrary to popular belief they are quite capable of and will attack when on the run but unlike their European cousins, they are "head butters" and do not try to hook  their attackers with their horns.

KNAPPING STONE, ARROWHEADS, BLADES, KNIVES, AND SPEAR POINTS

As made very evident; in the above illustration, flint or stone knapping (even if you should be lucky enough to find some suitable stone--which is very unlikely and the prime reason why so many "stone" knappers practice on pieces of glass a material that like suitable stone, you are very unlikely to find much of in the bush; or in any other survival situation in which you think you might be called upon to do any napping) is lot of hard work, requiring a lot of skill, practice, and equipment. Even then, with everything necessary, you probably will not be able to actually produce a usable product. While ceramic, glass or stone tools hold an edge better and can be many times sharper than the sharpest razor or scalpel made from steel;  ceramic, glass, or stone is also very brittle and tends to chip or break quite easily.
Produced by the most skilled stone knappers, the very best ceramic, glass or stone blades are not really suited for chopping; which is why truly stone age peoples anywhere in the world, did not fall a lot of trees, build a lot of fences--or actually do that much building or construction of any kind, THAT REQUIRED USING STONE TOOLS TO CHOP.
Imagine the shock it must have been to the early European invaders to discover that the Aztec and Mayan peoples were able to build and construct--out of stone--(the finished product often, in many ways, superior, to any thing found in Europe at the time-- or even today for that matter)--using tools made only from wood and or bone. 
Any sharp piece of stone that is any where near sharp enough or thin enough  to be used as a tool will-- unless you are familiar with the little known technique of heat treating flint or stone-- also have a natural curve or hook

Heat Treating Flint

It is a well-known fact that flints may be used in fire-lighting but they should NOT be exposed to heating by direct fire. Stone fracturing can result from uneven expansion, causing fragmentation. To combat fragmentation, flint/chert should be “BAKED” (in an oven); slowly brought up to a temperature of 300 to 500 F, held there for 24 hours, and then—slowly—cooled to room temperature. This heating process makes the material more homogenous and thus more knappable producing a straighter cleaner, sharper cutting edge

Comparison of Natural Flint With Ferrocerium 

Use of flint and steel or iron pyrite should not be confused with the use of ferrocerium(also known as hot spark, metal match, or fore steel) which is a manmade material. When scraped with any hard, sharp edge it will produce a spark that is much hotter than that which is obtained with natural flint and steel. Because it will also produce sparks when wet and can start hundreds of fires when used correctly, ferrocerium is a common item included in commercial survival kits. Ferrocerium is also the material commonly used in cigarette and cigar lighters—but we usually call it “flint”, when so used

Any crude tool (such as those illustrated) will NOT have enough practical use (other than for puncturing or stabbing) to be worth the effort, don't waste your time.

Knapping is the shaping of CHERT (chert is a form of quartz with an exceedingly fine grain. Different types are called, flint, agate, and chalcedony. Obsidian, (a similar rock, forms from high-silica lava and is the best knapping stone of all), or other conchoidal fracturing stone through the process of lithic reduction to manufacture stone tools, or in some cases for the construction of buildings. It takes years of practice, and you cut your hands a lot until you become an expert.
Flintknapping or Knapping: is done in a variety of ways depending on the purpose of the final product. For stone tools and flintlock strikers, chert is worked using a fabricator such as a hammerstone to remove lithic flakes from a nucleus or core of tool stone. Stone tools can then be further refined using wood, bone, and antler tools to perform pressure flaking.
For building work a hammer or pick is used to split chert nodules supported on the lap. Often the chert nodule will be split in half to create two cherts with a flat circular face for use in walls constructed of lime. More sophisticated knapping is employed to produce almost perfect cubes which are used as bricks.There are many different methods of shaping stone into useful tools. Early knappers could have used simple hammers made of wood or antler to shape stone tools.
Hard hammer techniques are used to remove large flakes of stone. Early knappers and hobbyists replicating their methods often use cobbles of very hard stone, such as quartzite. This technique can be used by flint knappers to remove broad flakes that can be made into smaller tools. This method of manufacture is believed to have been used to make some of the earliest stone tools ever found, some of which date from over 2 million years ago.

Pressure Flaking: involves removing narrow flakes along the edge of a stone tool. This technique is often used to do detailed thinning and shaping of a stone tool. Pressure flaking involves putting a large amount of force across a region on the edge of the tool and (hopefully) causing a narrow flake to come off of the stone. Modern hobbyists often use pressure flaking tools with a copper or brass tip, but early knappers could have used antler tines or a pointed wooden punch; traditionalist knappers still use antler tines and copper-tipped tools. The major advantage of using soft metals rather than wood or bone is that the metal punches wear down less and are less likely to break under pressure.Soft hammer techniques are more precise than hard hammer methods of shaping stone. Soft hammer techniques allow a knapper to shape a stone into many different kinds of cutting, scraping, and projectile tools.

Uses

In cultures that have not adopted metalworking technologies, the production of stone tools by knappers is common, but in modern cultures the making of such tools is the domain of experimental archaeologists and hobbyists. Archaeologists usually undertake the task so that they can better understand how prehistoricstone tools were made.Knapping is sometimes learned by outdoorsmen, supposedly as a survival tactic.

As a Hobby: if you happen to own one of those souvenir shops, specializing in "AUTHENTIC"--mostly made in China--Native North American curios it COULD become quite profitable.
Knapping for the supply of strikers for flintlock firearms was a major industry in flint bearing locations, such as Brandon in Suffolk, England, where knappers made strikers for export to the Congo as late as 1947 (some are still produced for the "black powder/muzzle loader" crowd).

Knapping for building purposes is still a skill that is practised in the flint-bearing regions of southern England, such as Sussex, Suffolk and Norfolk, and in northern France, especially Brittany and Normandy, where there is a resurgence of the craft due to government funding.

©Al ( Alexander) D Girvan 1995-2012