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Thursday, 18 June 2015

A Little Bit, About Ticks and Tick Removal

Deer Tick-Public Domain image
Camping and hiking are high-risk activities for encountering ticks, so remember to pack a straw and thread (or thin dental floss) next time you head into the woods(read why, toward end of this article.
Ticks-Latin Name (Common Name): Diseases they can transmit
Ixodes scapularis (deer tick or black legged tick): Lyme, babesiosis, anaplasmosis, Powassan encephalitis, tick paralysis, tularemia, Bartonella
Amblyomma americanum (lone star tick): Human monocytic ehrlichiosis, STARI, tularemia, tick paralysis, Rocky Mountain spotted fever (RMSF)
Dermacentor variabilis (American dog tick): RMSF, tularemia, human monocytic ehrlichiosis
Dermacentor andersoni (wood tick): RMSF, tularemia, Colorado tick fever, tick paralysis, Q fever
Ixodes pacificus (western black legged tick): Lyme, babesiosis, anaplasmosis, bartonella
Amblyomma maculatum (Gulf Coast tick): Rickettsia parkeri rickettsiosis
Do not EVER, ROTATE OR SQUEEZE the body of the tick.
Obviously, the following tick removal methods are NOT recommended:
1. Gripping the tick with thumb and forefinger and tugging at it. Doing so will cause the tick to regurgitate stomach contents—BAD NEWS.
2. Rotating the body of the tick, IN ANY WAY. Mouth parts have barbs which dig into flesh. Rotating the tick’s body, in any way will simply twist it off, leaving the mouth parts imbedded and YOU open to Lyme disease infection-BAD NEWS.
3. Burning the tick off with a match or cigarette lighter,
4. “Suffocating” the tick with petroleum jelly or hot oil
Avoid methods 3 &4 for the same reasons that you now avoid methods 1&2.
The safest rule as regards to how long it takes a tick to transmit a borreliosis to YOU is, ‘the sooner YOU remove the tick the greater the chance of preventing infection’. This is one reason why checking over your body carefully at the end of a long walk in the woods, then showering using a facecloth and back scrubber to scrub the body is usually sufficient to avoid infection even if the tick has already attached because ticks can be brushed off easily if not yet fully attached.
Even Better Than Tick Removal Is; AVOID Them.
Do Not Allow Ticks To Attach In The First Place.
Wearing long pants and sleeves, and walking with a friend who can keep an eye on your back means that you have time to see the tick and brush it off before it attaches. Keep switching positions of who is in back if walking single file. Look frequently for signs of ticks on you or your friend. If you find an attached tick, remove the tick as completely and as quickly as possible.
Ticks in the larval or nymphalid stage of development acquire the Lyme disease bacterium (Borrelia burgdorferi) by feeding on the blood of an infected host. Although we now know we not only have Borrelia burgdorferi in our ticks to cause borreliosis (Lyme disease) in humans, we also have other strains and species such as Borrelia miyamotoi, Borrelia hermsii, etch.
For example, with the recently discovered Borrelia miyamotoi, the mother tick can pass the infection to the egg which in turn can pass it to the larvae, on to the nymph and adult. Larvae hatch in the thousands so if you encounter these you may be at risk, and unfortunately they are not much bigger than the period at the end of this sentence making them very hard to detect.
One good thing is that, unlike mosquitoes (which can attach and begin feeding within seconds of landing on you) ticks take much more time to crawl to a suitable spot on your body, bite into your skin, secrete a ‘cement’ that secures them in place, and begin feeding/salivation.
Now though, we must revisit research done on Borrelia burgdorferi, to see if species/strains such as Borrelia miyamotoi follow the same rules now that we already know Borrelia miyamotoi broke the rule about mother tick not being able to pass the bacteria to their eggs. 
We have to revisit everything such as, does it take hours before the tick can transmit the disease to you, and if mosquitos can transmit it.  Mosquitos have been shown to carry Borrelia burgdorferi in their gut, but have not YET been shown to successfully transmit it but does that hold true for all Borrelia species/strains.
Safe tick removal methods
Method 1: If you already have a pair of fine pointed tweezers, and a steady hand, you can grasp The Mouthparts Of The Tick, NOT the body of the tick, and Slowly Pull The Tick Straight Out.

Remember that the skin may be swollen around the site of the tick attachment so if you’re not sure what you’re doing, you may prefer to use a specially designed tool. Method 2: Straw and Knot
The ‘straw and knot’ method is an elegant, easy, effective, low technology tick removal method.Place an ordinary drinking straw at a 45-degree angle over the tick. (The straw is simply being used as a guide to direct the knot).Take a length of thread (or dental floss) and tie a loose knot at the top or midsection of the straw.Slide your knot down the straw to where the tick is attached.Position the knot underneath the tick’s belly, so that the knot will encircle the Embedded Mouthparts Only.SLOWLY, tighten the knot to close snugly around the mouthparts of the tick.Remove the straw and pull the thread in a steady upward motion.
This WILLNOT ONLY cause the tick to detach, but Should Also Inhibit Regurgitation Of Bacteria That May Be In The Midgut.
Method 3: Intradermal Blister
If you’re close to a doctor’s office:
A doctor can inject Xylocaine into the skin below where the tick has attached.
A large Xylocaine-filled blister will form.
After tasting the Xylocaine, the tick should release its grip and back out on its own in order to search for a ‘better-tasting’ host.
Tick Treatment
After a tick has been removed, it’s important to wash the bite site using soap and water, followed with an antiseptic. Over-the-counter antiseptic medications are available at any pharmacy.

Don’t wait to develop symptoms. Go to your doctor and request antibiotics as a precaution.~~Al (Alex-Alexander) D Girvan.

Saturday, 29 November 2014

Emergency/Survival Style, Trout rig Setups (Lure Rigging)


Although of course, the rigs I describe are used in recreational, sport fishing, and by the Week End Survivor. They will not always be available in a true Emergency/Survival situation; but having the right trout rigs; or at least knowing how to set one up can give you a big advantage-and possibly be enough to save your life. Many will argue that learning how to make trout rigs is not important and about what is the best type of setup is for being the most effective on the water. Here I am going to show you a couple of ways to setup relatively simple trout rigs that WILL ENABLE YOU to land fish and thereby secure a food supply.
First, Let’s Talk About Different Trout Rigs.
If you are going to be fishing in a lake, probably, the best way to setup a trout rig is by using floating bait and a sliding sinker.
This may sound and even look complicated, but I assure you it is not hard-this rig is very similar to the rig most commonly used in Steelhead fishing(a steelhead is after all simply a rainbow trout that has been, at least once, in salt water). Take your fishing like and slip it onto your sinker (you should get one that is shaped similar to an egg). Now, attach that to a barrel swivel. Take that small trout rig and attach it right to 4lb test line giving yourself about 15-28 inches in length. Make sure to use a lightweight egg shaped sinker, which should allow you to cast farther out giving you the best advantage over the fish. There you have it, the simple yet effective trout rig. Easy. Here are a couple of diagrams to show how to set up rigs for most any fresh water fishing.
The first and most common is to use a bobber, or float. You can use a traditional round plastic bobber or an in line (steel head) float. Both work and there isn’t any big advantage in using one over other. The only difference would be the fact that you can fill the in line float bobber with water which allows you to cast further giving you the most precise locations. After casting out, just sit and wait. Not much in the way of entertainment, you just wait for the fish to come and take the bait.
The second and my favourite method is to do the “dance” as some call it. Simply take your rig - fasten it to your line- and cast out. Allow your rig to sink down in the water-reel it in at a slow (not extremely) speed-as you reel in, move the rod from side to side and up and down-allow the jig to lose momentum after each pull. This appears to be more realistic to the fish, and usually yields fantastic results.
 Lure Rigging
If you plan to use a lure, then you have a couple of options. Lures are great for beginners because they rely a lot more on trial, and error, than anything else does. You simply cast out and make sure your lure does not sink too far down. If your lure snags; then, you need to first use lighter weights, and to reel in faster, preventing  it from settling right on the bottom. Lure fishing really is simple. Just tie up your lure, cast off and hope for the best.
Another trout rig is The Night Crawler Rig. It also is super simple, and highly effective. Go to your local store and pick up some bait holder hooks, size 6-10 short shank fishing hooks work best (of course in an emergency, use anything you have or that you are able to somehow fashion.
The recreational, sport or weekend survivor angler will want to pick up a worm inflator. A worm inflator is, essentially, a tool (like a hypodermic needle) that allows you to put a small amount of air into the worm. This allows you to cast it out and not have your bait come to sit on the bottom. This rig is one of my favourites for most any kind of-including trout- fishing and I always seem to do well with it. Attach your worm just under the skin and use your worm inflator as the instructions state (or, use a float and adjust the leader length.
Make sure, if possible (rancid fat, spoiling meat or fish, night crawlers or other worms that have been tightly bagged and left out in the sun for a spell) to in some way scent your bait. It will make a difference and you do not want to be casting out with your bait covered in human scent.
There are two general methods on how to use trout rigs. The first is to cast out past your desired location. Allow the bait to settle, and then slowly move it toward the quarry. The second method is a more traditional one. Cast out and allow the bait to sit in one spot. The idea here is that you want the trout to come and find the bait by using a more natural approach.
WHEN YOU SEE THE LINE START TO SHAKE, GET READY TO SET THE HOOK AND REEL IT IN!
Insider Tip:
A good rule of thumb when it comes to setting trout rigs is to move your lure slower when in colder waters and at a moderate speed at higher temperature. Of course, this is not always true but it should give you some good trout fishing guidance.
Final Thoughts:
– Adjusting the weight and setup of your trout rigs can determine at what speed and how fast your cast will go
– Learn the “dance” and become the envy of some of the most seasoned anglers.
-Remember that the temperature should control how fast or slow you should reel your rig.
-There is no one method that is better than all other methods; always, use a combination of rigs, and techniques, for the best results ©Al (Alex-Alexander) D. Girvan. All rights reserved.

Wednesday, 12 November 2014

What Is Hypothermia?

Used as a prefix, ‘hypo-’ means ‘under’ or ‘below normal’.  So hypothermia means below normal temperature.    
When you are awake, your body needs to maintain a core temperature of approximately 37oC (98.6oF).  This is sometimes referred to as ‘normothermia’, i.e. your normal temperature.   
Medically, hypothermia is defined as a body core temperature below 35oC (95oF).  This represents a 2oC (3.6oF) drop from normal body core temperature.  This allows for normal temperature fluctuations that occur through a 24 hour period, including temperature changes in your body while you sleep. 

In reality, however, if someone is awake, normally fit and healthy and has a body core temperature of 35oC (95oF) in a remote outdoors setting, they are likely to be in trouble already.  If they still have the energy they may well be shivering violently.  In the outdoors, you need to do something about a falling body core temperature before it gets to this stage.  We need to look for signs and symptoms of hypothermia in our companions.  Learning to recognise the signs and symptoms – and recognise them early – is very important--at any time--not just in disaster/survival situations. ©Al (Alex-Alexander)D Girvan. All rights reserved.

Tuesday, 19 August 2014

State Symbols of the United States of the Americas, Many Dont Exist in That or any State.

Though we will probably never know the reasons why; the United States of the Americas, from their very conception. has always had great difficulty with the English language, respecting the rights, property, and traditions of other countries, and in thinking globally, or even beyond its own borders, except that is, to steal from others. We do know that without their domineering, and obstinate interference, there would be a lot less world conflict.

Home on the Range, the State song of Kansas, original words by Dr. Brewster Higley, a man who, obviously, knew very little about the animals, or, plants, native to North America. In any case, as per usual, like most people living in that area (now United States of the Americas), he got things, just little, screwed up.
VERSE 1:
Oh, give me a home where the buffalo roam,
Where the deer and the antelope play,
Where seldom is heard a discouraging word
And the sky is not clouded all day.
VERSE 2:
Oh, give me the gale of the Solomon vale,
Where life streams with buoyancy flow,
On the banks of the Beaver, where seldom if ever
Any poisonous herbage doth grow.
Free, wild buffalo and antelope have never existed in the Americas. Much of the native herbage (berries, fruits, vegetables, plants in general) growing along the banks of the Beaver- or any river, stream, brook- anywhere in the Americas is, indeed poisonous, to some degree..
State Animals-Mammals
Alaska state land animal-moose= elk, known round the globe.
Kansas state animal-United States of the Americas buffalo= bison.
Maine state animal-moose= elk, known round the globe.
Texas state animal-Texas Longhorn= Spanish Longhorns, evolved from several ancient BREEDS of cattle, brought to the Americas; by, of course, the Spanish.

Utah state animal- elk=Wapiti, is not an elk, exists only in North America.©Al (Alex-Alexander) D Girvan. All rights reserved.

Sunday, 10 August 2014

What Do You Need To Do To Survive.


Your First Priority-The Hierarchy of Survival Needs- is to look after that which is most critically needed-FIRST AID-in that particular situation, at that particular time. the person who is drowning is not apt to be concerned with building a shelter on dry land; and the person who is rapidly bleeding to death needn't be overly concerned about hunting for food or water.

About Shelter or Shelters, Survivor Style.
While in many cases you will not have much time in which to look after all your survival needs, shelter is never your first priority and, probably, not your second, third, or even forth.The most important need for shelter is insulation; between you and the ground, in cold, and, the sun in hot weather—insulation first and breaking the wind second.
If you were to sleep on the cold ground, your body heat would conduct into the ground quickly and you might not wake up because of this rapid heat loss.
If, ground cover is your first shelter consideration, and all you have, available, is a thermal blanket, for example, then wrap in it instead of trying to build a tent out of it for overhead cover. Then add to your shelter with natural cover and/or insulation.
You can spend all day building a roof over your head and then freeze to death lying on the cold ground. Build an elevated bed, if possible, or, at least have ample insulation between you and the ground. Pile up boughs and other vegetation underneath any raised beds to keep the wind from flowing under the platform. Then focus on the roof. In extremely hot weather just reverse the process.

Fire Craft
Fire is may be needed for warmth, water purification, to repel predators and insects, signalling rescue personnel and/or just for morale. Fire might, possibly, be a priority as soon as your shelter is constructed and it is usually a good idea to have one, with ample wood for the night, before it gets dark..
In dry warm climates, anyone can create a fire but it takes a certain skill set and knowledge to start a fire in a wet environment. Unless you have extensive fire starting skills, you would need the means to create fire on your person((smoker or not, always carry a cigarette lighter or mini-torch in your pocket, make sure that it is refillable and has adequate fuel) . You simply cannot begin rubbing two sticks together to create fire unless the conditions are near perfect-not exactly true, but, you do have to have some workable knowledge about it. Wet or damp wood and tinder might not allow a fire to be created this way.
Carry a fire kit that contains magnesium sticks, Ferro rods, waterproof matches and dry tinder. Tinder can be cotton balls saturated with petroleum jelly, which are ideal for damp conditions. Alcohol based hand sanitiser or alcohol wipes can also be used. A spark from flint and metal can ignite tinder that has alcohol applied to it. Carry char cloth, which can also be ignited from a single spark along with dried grasses and/or fatwood (pine resin) and wood curls from seasoned wood.
Rope (Cordage)
Cordage might be needed for shelter building, snares, lashing materials to your pack or body, and for carrying or pulling items.
Making cordage from materials found in the wilderness while, like fire building, maybe harder than some survival manuals, and survival adventure, reality shows, try to make it out to be, can be done by anyone—with basic industrial arts, or, home economics knowledge. Always remember, while cord making can be a fun pass time—you know like stone knapping—it is almost never a necessity(there are other ways of obtaining cordage in any disaster/survival situation-it is seldom, ever a necessity and might be almost impossible to accomplish in cold weather, particularly if there is a good deal of snow as well. But, should you have the time-to waste, persistence might, eventually pay off , provided of course, you have any idea, at all, of what you are really attempting to do—that is succeed at Canada’s national game and--WIN. Certain types of rope, string or twine may be made from plant material as well as animal sinew; and, you are—well maybe-- surrounded by plant materials in a wilderness environment.
Plant materials that are ideal for making cordage include dogbane, milkweed, hemp, flax, bulrushes, cattails, yucca, willow, cedar, tuliptrees (many times mistaken for poplar) and basswood. You can essentially make twine or string from any plant material that can be twisted or plaited.
The fibre of the plant is used and then the individual strands are twisted or braided together. In some cases, a supple vine can be used as is. Grasses can be used by tying the ends of three pieces together to do a simple braid. Larger fronds like those found on cattail or certain cacti can be used to make carrying containers by weaving the fronds into baskets, bowls or even into sleeping mats. To make string from cattail fronds separate the fronds into fibres and twist or braid together.
Clothing and other material can be unravelled and, or cut into strips and twisted together—so may strips of plastic. If, you become stranded in a vehicle, you may have plastic grocery sacks that can be used and even the vehicle wiring can become cordage. The material in car seating can be cut into strips and braided together as well. Do not forget shoelaces and drawstrings on clothing and backpacks.
Food Gathering
Hunting
Always, in any disaster/true survival situation, ALWAYS, ALWAYS, hunt for and gather WATER, and any, available, berries, nuts, vegetation, first and foremost.
To many weekend survivors and urban bushcrafters; those really not at all familiar with Canada’s true national game; humans and grizzly bears, are considered apex predators, living in an environment where they are the biggest animal with no predators that consider them prey because of their size and ferocity; which would mean they are hunters and typically not the hunted.  
A human’s ability to reason and use weaponry along with the capability to control the environment around them is why humans are considered, by most of these people, to be APEX predators. While, of course, again, as usual; neither premise is true- for not many humans normally do any hunting and:
1.   YOU HAVE TO HUNT. But more importantly, you have to know what to hunt for-If you enter the wilderness without hunting or gathering; not necessarily, killing trapping skills, you may very well, probably, go hungry.
2.   While historically, grizzly bears did at one time live in an environment in which they were, arguably, among the top FIVE or so, land animals in size (total bulk), after woods bison, prairie bison, elk (North American moose), and the polar bear of the high-Canadian- arctic. While they might have run up against an odd very large elephant seal, or sea lion; their normal range was too far south for them encounter many walrus.
3.   Grizzly bears are not carnivorous, the only truly carnivorous bear, in the entire world is the (most live in Canada- Churchill is considered, the polar bear capital of the world).

  • Nearly five times as many people are STILL, killed or seriously injured each year in North America by bison as by all predators combined.
4.   In any case, being an apex predator does not mean that prey give themselves up to you. Learn hunting skills before you need the skills to provide food for you and your family. Hunters that are desperate rarely do well for obvious reasons and hunters become desperate because of lack of success that stems from lack of training and experience. You do not need to come back to camp more than one time empty handed with hungry mouths staring up at you to understand desperation.
You need certain skills sets, tools, and equipment to hunt successfully. This does not mean you cannot improvise. You are not an apex predator and probably never will be but, hopefully, you do have ability to reason, in other words you may be able to, intelligently, solve some simple, problems.

Hunting Trapping Snaring Small Game
If you do not have a firearm, cross bow or longbow and after most any disaster or in a true survival situation, you won’t; then your chances of bringing down big game are low. This means you have to concentrate on smaller game that can be caught in snares or traps or in some cases brought down by thrown sticks or stones (highly unlikely, considering most “week end, survivor /adventure game players would not have the first clue as to how to go about doing so. Certain birds can be knocked down by stones and hunters in certain parts of the world routinely hunt birds and small mammals with sticks.
Spears can be used as well but success with a spear for most “Survivors” has more to do with luck than knowledge or skill. However, spears can be used by practically anyone to fish with if you stand directly over the fish and plunge straight down while still hanging onto the spear.
Thrown-something you don’t want to be ever doing- spears unless specifically designed, and balanced, (not a “survival” tool) do not have enough thrust behind them.

Snares once set can be considered a passive food-gathering method so set your snares first and then fish or hunt. You simply cannot rely on just one method of capturing game. You have to increase your chances of success by employing multiple methods.
Set snares along game trails that lead to and from water but keep in mind larger predators also use these trails so you will be competing for resources. Trapped animals are an easy meal for larger animals so you have to check your traps often.
A simple snare is nothing more than cordage or wire in a loop with a slipknot. The animal walks into the noose and it tightens as they try to push through. The loop must be sized for the type of game in the area. Too big of a loop and the animal walks through the snare and two small of loop means their head cannot enter the loop.

Tracking
You see tracks in the snow or mud, now what do you do? You are hungry, do you follow the tracks or sit tight and hope another animal comes along because the tracks may indicate a trail that other animals might move along as well.
You should be able to tell right away if it is a trail used by all animals, trails usually lead somewhere, and it is usually to a water source. Multiple tracks of various animals and the age of the tracks would indicate a game trail that has been used for some time.
You have to know to some extent how old the tracks are, if they are days old it will not do you any good to follow them. In a survival situation, you have to balance the effort against what you may gain. If you burn up 2,000 calories in hopes of stumbling upon something then you will likely end up with a deficit at the end of the day.
With a little practise, you can determine fresh tracks from old tracks particularly in snow or mud. Tracks in snow will lose their shape quickly depending on wind and temperature. If you cannot look at the track and see an actual print embedded then it is likely an old track. Older tracks in the snow all tend to look alike and it is difficult to determine if it is a deer, rabbit or even human after a while because of snow melting and from snow that has been blown into the tracks.
Tracks hours old in the mud may, but, do not count on it, begin to crumble at the edges. If, there is sun or breezes, you can easily see where the mud is drying around the rim.
Bent or broken vegetation is another sign an animal or human has passed by. In cold weather, it will be harder to determine how long ago because the vegetation will not likely have sap. Green vegetation will have seepage, a fresh break is easily identified by the fresh sap, and older breaks will be readily evident as well by the effects of weathering. Note the height of the break from the ground to get an idea of the size of the animal.
Grasses that have been trampled will typically begin to spring back after an hour in warm weather but the time it takes depends on how high the grass is. If the grass is, only a few inches high it will spring back into position faster than deeper grass.

****Foraging, Gathering****
Foraging is simply the act of gathering supplies usually food. Edibles to forage for in a wilderness environment include nuts, berries, and edible plants.
There are edible plants however, that are readily identifiable from their pictures such as cattails, arrowroot, and even day lilies growing wild. These plants do not resemble other plants that may be poisonous.
Pinion nuts, for example, were a staple of Native Americans diets and the local people often migrated according to the Pinion nut’s growing season.
Berries that are easily identified include blackberries, raspberries and Indian strawberries, which should not be confused with so-called wild strawberries. Strawberries really are not wild berries and if you find the white blossomed berries then they are traditional strawberries and not Indian berries. The white blossomed plants are likely holdouts from a farm that was in the area or birds have carried the seed. Indian strawberries have yellow blossoms and do not taste like a strawberry but they are edible and plentiful if you find a patch.

Foraging must be done regularly because you are competing with birds and other mammals in the area so you need to keep track of the ripening process. Over time, you will know when to begin looking and where to look.©Al (Alex-Alexander) D Girvan. All rights reserved.

Tuesday, 22 July 2014

Bivouac and Hammock Tent Survival Shelters


A “ bivouac” shelter may include  any of a variety of improvised, or now, more commonly, manufactured,(top, left image)  camp site shelters; such as those used in scouting, mountain climbing, week end adventure Survival  scenarios. The term may often refer to sleeping in the open with a bivouac sack, but it may also refer to a shelter constructed of natural materials like a structure of branches to form a frame, which is then covered with leaves, ferns and similar for waterproofing and duff (leaf litter) for insulation. Of course, the term could also be used in reference to an all snow iglu in which the only heat was, traditionally a Kudlik (stone lamp or "bitch lamp". In any case, what we usually think of as a bivouac is rather small and were as a Kudik was enough to provide all the heat wanted in a snow iglu; a candle can provide- more than- enough heat for any other bivouac type shelter.
The word bivouac is French; and ultimately derives from an 18th-century Swiss German usage of beiwacht (bei =  by, wacht =  watch or patrol).

In North America, a bivouac is sometimes called a bivy for short.©All (Alex, Alexander) D Girvan. All rights reserved.

Monday, 21 July 2014

The Tarp Emergency Shelter, Including a Word of Caution About Commercially Manufactured Tents

A "tarp" shelter is often enough for most of our “bushcraft"/survival situations. Most of us only go out for such adventures in rather nice weather anyway.
Although generally bulky, the tarp does not have to be large nor  expensive. They need weigh almost nothing. For one person, one 6 x 10 bought in some hardware or gas station will more than suffice.
Many of you own a military type poncho or ground sheet. These can and were intended to be used to make an emergency shelter. Just make a frame from saplings and tie the ground sheet over it, using para-cord.  Or, use as shown in my illustration (.Sleeping kit is airing in the morning sunshine). A decent-sized tarp creates a fantastic space under which to live, not just sleep. You get much more room than you do in a tent; and, you can adjust the ceiling height to suit yourself. Not just for disaster/survival situations; for most of the year it is my favourite way of sleeping out in the woods. You wake up fresh and in the environment around you, not shut off from it.

The tarp is suspended, running the cord under the apex of the tarp. This gives a line inside the tarp on which one can hang equipment (including, a battery operated camp lantern, for easy reach in the night), as well as being able to air the sleeping kit, socks, etch. under the tarp without fear of it getting wet in a rain shower.


Lay branches and leaves on the ground for bedding, and add side walls, if needed
Very important in winter conditions; if, you are, or intend to be, using a commercially manufactured tent, make sure it is double walled and also large enough to meet your needs. Most "two" man tents have barely enough space for one person.
©Al (Alex-Alexander) D. Girvan. All Rights reserved.