Walking With Bears

As seen by fans of the  hell rasen, or is it raisin, rooten tooten Two Gun Kid.

Run he's about to attack us.

Stories of ferocious attacks by blood-thirsty bears on defenceless hikers make great lead stories in the media. The overwhelming sense conveyed in these stories is that bears are dangerous, mean creatures that are an extreme threat to people in any circumstance. This, of course, is inaccurate at best and unhelpful at worst.

Another commonly held myth is that bears are cuddly creatures that resemble the teddy bears we owned as kids. While there is no doubt that bears have the power to trigger children’s imaginations, it is important that the stories we share with our children be based on facts rather than fantasy.

It is important to dispel both myths – the one based on fear, and the other based on a misplaced belief that bears are tame cuddly animals.

Bears are intelligent and resourceful wild mammals that deserve our respect. A greater knowledge of the behaviour, ecology and habitat needs of bears is crucial if we are to learn to co-exist peacefully with these magnificent creatures.

• Bears are not about to attack, if standing on hind legs, they are simply wanting a better view.
• The bear would easily out run you if it were in the mood to attack, A young grizzly is perfectly capable of climbing trees. 
• Most all bears are omnivorous, the long grizzly bear claws used mainly to tear apart decaying logs in order to get at insect grubs,one of the grizzly's favourite foods.
• Grizzlies are a lot more fun
  
  
   than you would ever suspect-just treat them with due respect-the same respect you might claim for yourself.
  

Despite apparent differences in size and colour, black bears and grizzly bears are often difficult to tell apart. Why is this important? Every year, black bear hunters kill several grizzly bears by mistake, which can have dire consequences for local grizzly bear populations.

It is extremely important to know which species is which when you can encounter a bear in your community or in the back country.

Black Bears can be black, blue-black, dark brown, brown, cinnamon and even white. Grizzlies, likewise, may range in colour, from black to blond. Although grizzly bears are, on average, significantly larger than black bears, size is not a good indicator of which species is which. Male black bears in Manitoba’s Riding Mountain National Park, for instance, can weigh up to 800 pounds in the fall, and female grizzly bears on Alberta’s Eastern Slopes can weigh as little as 250 pounds in the spring.

The best indicators are the size of the shoulders, the profile of the face and the length of the claws. The grizzly bear has a pronounced shoulder hump, which the black bear lacks. It also has a concave or “dished” facial profile, smaller ears and much larger claws than the black bear. Black bears have a flatter, “Roman-nose” profile, larger ears, no visible shoulder hump and smaller claws.

The best thing people can do for bears; replace misconceptions with facts.

Bears have fascinated humans for millennia. As one of the most adaptable and versatile mammals on earth, their behaviour stirs fear, awe, wonder, and curiosity in us. Unfortunately, there are still many myths surrounding the lives and behaviour of bears that negatively impact our relationships with them.

Stories of ferocious attacks by blood-thirsty bears on defenceless hikers make great lead stories in the media. The overwhelming sense conveyed in these stories is that bears are dangerous, mean creatures that are an extreme threat to people in any circumstance. This, of course, is inaccurate at best and unhelpful at worst.

Another commonly held myth is that bears are cuddly creatures that resemble the teddy bears we owned as kids. While there is no doubt that bears have the power to trigger children’s imaginations, it is important that the stories we share with our children be based on facts rather than fantasy.

It is important to dispel both myths – the one based on fear, and the other based on a misplaced belief that bears are tame cuddly animals.

Bears are intelligent and resourceful wild mammals that deserve our respect. A greater knowledge of the behaviour, ecology and habitat needs of bears is crucial if we are to learn to co-exist peacefully with these magnificent creatures. 

The Myths and the Factual Truths

  

Myth: Bears are unpredictable. 

Fact: Bears use body language and vocalizations to show their intentions. Learning about bear behaviour can be beneficial to people who live or recreate in bear country.

Myth: Bears can’t run down hill. 

Fact: Bears can run more than 60 kilometers an hour, and they can do it up hills, down hills or along a slope. To put that in perspective, that’s 15 m/sec or 50 ft/sec – more than twice as fast as we can run. Further fact, a bear can outrun a racehorse over short distances; but, has little endurance.

Myth: A bear standing on its hind legs is about to charge. 

Fact: Actually, a bear standing on its hind legs is just trying to better identify what has caught its attention. As I’m sure you’ll agree, it’s much easier to see, hear and smell things from a standing position, than down on all fours.

Myth: Once a bear has tasted human food, he won’t eat wild food any more. 

Fact: Bears prefer natural, wild food unless it is difficult to find and human food is too easy to get. Even the worst food-conditioned bears still eat natural foods whenever they’re plentiful. Conflicts usually increase when natural foods run out – a good time to be more vigilant of bear attractants on your property; such as bird feed, pet food, fruit trees/berry bushes, barbecue grease and compost. 

Myth: Bear bells are the best way to avoid a surprise encounter. 

Fact: It’s best to alert bears of your presence by talking loudly, singing songs or breaking sticks. Try to hike in a group, on established trails, during daylight hours.  

Myth: If a bear charges you, climb a tree. 

Fact: Despite all their timidness on the ground, black bears seem to feel more courageous in trees. Bears sometimes kill each other by throwing their opponents out of trees. The bear below has the advantage because the bear above cannot easily hang on and face downward to fight back. Also the lower bear seems confident of these advantages and some bears have even come up trees after people who thought climbing was prudent. Grizzlies, too, can climb – perhaps not as quickly, but they have been known to attack people who climbed trees to escape. 

Myth: Bears are carnivores.

Fact: Although classified in the order carnivora, grizzly and black bears are omnivores because they eat both plants and animals. Only a small percentage of their diet consist of meat, which includes fish, insects and other mammals (the exact percentage is dependant on the type of food is available in their habitat).The only truly carnivorous bear in the entire world is the polar bear and even that is changing, due to human interference.

Myth: Bears have poor eyesight.

Fact: Bears see in colour and have good vision similar to humans. Their night vision is excellent and they are particularly attuned to detecting movement. Like many animals, bears’ eyes have a reflective layer called the tapetum lucidum lining the back of the eyeball. This layer reflects light back through the retina, allowing light to stimulate light-sensitive cells in the retina a second time, thereby improving night vision. This is what gives dogs, cats and many nocturnal animals that distinct, bright green eye shine when they are flashed with a light at night.

Myth: Bears that wander into inhabited areas such as camp-sites, rural towns or cottage communities are dangerous

Fact: It is nearly impossible for a bear to make its daily excursions without walking through someone’s private property. Bears may travel hundreds of kilometres in their search for food. If you have stored your food and garbage properly, the bear will likely move on. Remember, problem bears aren’t born, they’re created through mismanagement of human food and garbage. If bears are hanging around, something is attracting them. Removing the attraction will usually solve the problem. 

Myth: Shooting or relocating a ‘nuisance’ bear will solve the problem

Fact: Removing the bear and not the attractant will only create an opportunity for another bear to move in, creating a vicious cycle of conflict and killing.

Myth: Carrying a rifle is safer than bear pepper spray

Fact: A person’s chance of incurring serious injury from a charging grizzly doubles when bullets are fired versus when bear pepper spray is used (Dr. Stephen Herrero). Those injured defending themselves with bear pepper spray experienced shorter attacks and less severe injuries than those who chose to use firearms (US Fish and Wildlife Service). Click here to read the full report. Bears are actually attracted to pepper spray residue if it is sprayed on the ground or on objects. Never spray it around a tent or on yourself. When used defensively, pepper spray must be sprayed directly in the attacking bear’s eyes or nose. Click here for more information.

Myth12: One of the most dangerous encounters is getting between a mother black bear and her cubs

Fact: Because black bears can tree their cubs, it is rare for them to attack a person in defence of cubs. However, if you are anywhere near a mother grizzly’s cubs, she might very well perceive you as a threat. The chances are good that she will just bluff charge and stop well short of physical contact. You need to do whatever you can to show her that you are not a threat, otherwise the consequences could be tragic. Be quiet, make yourself smaller and retreat.

Myth: People travelling in bear country are often attacked.

Fact: Bear attacks are extremely rare. Bison are the animal that kill most humans -each and every year. Although there are thousands of human-bear encounters every year, only a very few result in personal injury. Most bears will actually retreat before you are even aware of their presence. It is still important, however, to stay alert and know what to do.

Myth: It is dangerous for a woman to go into bear country when menstruating

Fact: Current evidence suggests that menstruation does not increase the likelihood of an attack by a black, or grizzly bear, but tampons are recommended over pads. They may be disposed of by burning and then packing out the remains. 

Myth: Play dead during an attack.

Fact: Playing dead will work if you’re being attacked by a mother grizzly defending her cubs.

But it is the wrong thing to do if you’re being attacked by a predatory bear. If a bear attacks (particularly a black bear) in an offensive manner and physical contact is made, fight for your life. Kick, punch, hit the bear with rocks or sticks or any improvised weapon you can find. 

A predatory bear usually stalks its prey and attacks from behind. It is often silent and the bear does not exhibit any defensive behaviours like huffing or slapping the ground. Its ears may be laid back and its head held low, with its intent focused directly on you. 

Bears are normally shy, retiring animals that have very little desire to interact with humans.Black bears will often live near human settlements, whereas grizzly bears prefer to stay as far away as possible. .

Understanding bear behaviour is an essential part of creating safe environments for both bears and people. More often than not, bear behaviour is misinterpreted. People all too often interpret what a bear does in terms of their own fear. To truly understand bear behaviour, you must interpret bear postures and vocalizations in terms of what the bear fears.

Bears have fascinated humans for millennia. As one of the most adaptable and versatile mammals on earth, their behaviour stirs fear, awe, wonder, and curiosity in us. Unfortunately, there are still many myths surrounding the lives and behaviour of bears that negatively impact our relationships with them.

Always Remember:

Bears are predictable. In fact, bears are usually more predictable than people. If you learn more about bears and how to interpret their behaviour, you will be able to react appropriately when you see them and avoid a negative encounter.

Bears are NOT ferocious. They are NOT mean, or malicious. Bears are normally shy, retiring animals that have very little desire to interact with humans. Unless they are forced to be around humans to be near a food source, they usually choose to avoid us.

Bears, like humans and other animals, have a “critical space” – an area around them that they may defend. Once you have entered a bear’s critical space, you have forced the bear to act – either to run away or be aggressive. The size of the critical space is different for every bear and every situation.

Although black bears and grizzly bears do share some common traits, it’s important to understand the difference in the way they react to perceived threats. Each species has evolved different strategies for survival. Black bears, for instance, are usually less aggressive and more tolerant of people. They often live near human settlements, whereas grizzly bears prefer to stay away from human settlements and are often extirpated from heavily used or populated areas.

Black bears are excellent climbers. When a black bear is threatened he usually runs from the perceived threat or goes up a tree. With cubs out of danger, female black bears don’t have to make vigorous defences that risk potential injury. Although black bears tend to retreat from people, they are still incredibly strong animals that can cause injuries.

Today, grizzly bears tend to live in coastal or mountain forests, but they evolved in treeless habitat that influenced their behavioural response to perceived threats. For instance, they are more likely than black bears to defend themselves when threatened. A black bear’s first line of defence is retreat, but grizzlies, especially sows with cubs, can be very aggressive towards other bears and people they perceive as threats.

While grizzlies especially adults are not good tree climbers, it’s important to note that they can climb trees. However, a mother grizzly will usually aggressively defend her cubs on the ground rather then send them up a tree as a black bear sow will.

Bears are very curious and will inspect odours, noises and objects to determine if they are edible or playable. Standing up on its hind legs allows a bear to get more information from its senses of smell, sight and hearing. It is a sign of curiosity, not aggression.

Bears are usually active from dawn to dusk, but they may be seen any time of day or night. Bears in many places of high human use have become nocturnal in order to avoid people. While others have become habituated to people in order to gain access to their plentiful buffet of improperly stored garbage and other attractants.

Bears can be very social. Bears are often described as asocial when compared to wolves, chimps or lions, but to use the term “asocial” to describe bears is incorrect.

While bears do not live in extended family groups or join in hunts, they can co-exist in very close proximity to each other and in fact form alliances and friendships – some adult bears have even been known to mentor younger unrelated bears; young unrelated adolescents hang around in pairs and even groups (likely because there is strength in numbers). The bears of a region are usually familiar with one another and meetings consist of complex social exchanges. Some bears like each other and other simply don’t tolerate one another in their respective home ranges – not unlike people’s relationships with each other.

Bears are not territorial. Being territorial means keeping other members of your species away from a given area. Wolves and primates(including all the, so called, HUMAN species)are territorial – bears are not. 

Bears,share home ranges. This mutual use of land and resources is a basis for bear social behaviour.

Bears habituate, or become accustomed, to people just like they do other bears. Because plentiful food resources can be localized – salmon in a stream or berries on a mountainside – bears have evolved behaviour that allows them to tolerate each other at close distances. This behaviour is transferred to their relationship with humans. If they are not shot or harassed, bears habituate to people the same way they do to each other.

Bears live in a dominance hierarchy based on age, size and temperament. Mature males are at the top of the hierarchy, and sub-adults and cubs at the bottom. Bears establish and maintain their social position and place in the hierarchy by posturing or acting aggressively. Single females and sub-adult adolescents are almost always submissive to mature males but have a loose hierarchy within their own group.

Bears react to new things in their environment. New objects or situations often frighten bears. Behaviourists call this “strange object response.” After an initial fright, bears will often investigate what alarmed them. This is not an aggressive act and shouldn’t be regarded as one.

Bears are not always aware. Bears, particularly adult brown bears, are not always aware of what is going on around them. A bear following a trail doesn’t always look ahead. He may be distracted by a yummy food source or may not be able to hear over the loud sounds of rushing water or blowing wind. A bear can literally blunder into an unsuspecting person.

Relation Between Humans and Polar Bears:

The interactions between humans and Polar Bears have a long existence. Some of them have been good relationships and others seem to threaten the well being of the other. Early writings and oral stories passed along from generation to generation indicate that many cultures were very respectful of Polar Bears. They understand these large creatures were dominant in their world. They also believed that human souls could take on the form of Polar Bears. Many of their rituals involved honouring the Polar Bears as well.

On the other side of that you have those cultures that found Polar Bears to be a great source of food. They would hunt them and use all but the liver from these animals for their survival. They too were very thankful for the Polar Bear, and only used what they needed to in order to survive.

It wasn’t until much later that Polar Bears and humans started to have huge conflicts. As humans began moving into the territory of these animals, the fights ensued. Humans have always felt they could take over any area they wanted regardless of the natural habitat it would destroy in the process. The Polar Bear was willing to stay and fight for their own survival. Even when they did move to other locations, they often found themselves stepping on the toes of humans in that region too.

The commercial hunting of Polar Bears almost drove them to extinction. The misconception was that there were very powerful bears with a taste for human blood. Therefore they were to be hunted and destroyed so they couldn’t kill humans. With advanced tools and hunting techniques, these efforts were successful at slaughtering huge numbers of them. Many avid hunting fans took part in such expeditions simply for the challenge of killing such a large animal.

Polar Bears have found their way to the list of Endangered Animals.

However, most humans don’t see to care that they are on there. They would like to see such conservation efforts go towards other animals. 

Paranoid humans, especially those with an extreme persecution complex, don’t like the fact that such a predator is out there-- being protected. Yet, we all need to understand that the Polar Bear remains at the top of the food chain. Should they be destroyed that entire pyramid of balance will come crashing down. ~~Al (Alex-Alexander) D Girvan.

More Chickens 101-First Chickens in Americas Were Brought From Polynesia

 Of Course you Already Know, Fried Chicken is Really Chinese Food.

That is right, not a typo. The original ancestors of all domestic chickens came from China.

The chicken (Gallus gallus domesticus) is a domesticated fowl, a subspecies of the red junglefowl. As one of the most common and widespread domestic animals, with a population of more than 19 billion in 2011. There are more chickens in the world than any other species of bird or domestic animal. Humans keep chickens primarily as a source of food, consuming both their meat and their eggs.

The earliest known domestication occurred in Northern China 8,000 BCE determined from archaeological chicken bones

Why did the chicken cross the Pacific Ocean? To get to the other side, in South America. How? By Polynesian canoes, which apparently arrived at least 100 years before Europeans settled the continent. Such is the conclusion of an international research team, which reported that it had found “the first unequivocal evidence for a pre-European introduction of chickens to South America,” or presumably anywhere in the New World. The researchers said that bones buried on the South American coast were from chickens that lived between 1304 and 1424. Pottery at the site was from a similar or earlier time. A DNA analysis linked the bones, which were excavated at El Arenal on the Arauca Peninsula in south central Chile, to chickens from Polynesian islands. The presence of the South American sweet potato in pre-European sites in Polynesia also indicates some prehistoric contact between the Americas and the Polynesian islands.

The findings published in the Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences. The lead author Alice A. Storey, an anthropologist at the University of Auckland, New Zealand, and other team members are from American Samoa, Australia, Canada and the United States.

Much later; in Northern Italy, near the port of Leghorn, were found a landrace of fowls, known as Livornese. Smallish in body, but which lay very many eggs. In 1852, Captain Gates entered the harbour at Mystic, CT, and arrived with the first importation of Leghorn chickens that were to be ancestors of today’s flocks. The birds were what we now call Brown or Red in colour. In 1853 F.J. Kinney received an importation of Brown/Red Leghorns at Boston Harbour, while Mr. Simpson received a shipment of White Leghorns. From this point, forward Leghorn chickens began to win the hearts of North Americans. The Best Egg-Layer of the older most familiar breeds: They’re generally friendly, though they can be noisy and a bit aggressive at times. Leghorns are good layers of white eggs, laying an average of 280 per year and sometimes reaching 300–320. Better egg layer than brooder

Rhode Island Red: The Best Dual-Purpose Bird: Easy to care for and a good layer! Theyare a popular choice for backyard flocks because of their egg laying abilities and hardiness. Although they can sometimes be stubborn, healthy hens can lay up to 5–6 eggs per week depending on their care and treatment.

Rhode Island Red hens lay many more eggs than an average hen if provided plenty of quality feed.

Buff Orpington: The Best Pet Chicken:

The one caution on this breed is that their docile nature will often make them a target for bullying from other birds.

Bred to be an excellent layer with good meat quality. They can go broody very often, and make great mothers. Due to their build they do well in very cold climates. If you choose to raise a Buff Orpington, be careful not to add aggressive breeds to your flock.

Delaware: The Meaty Bird: Delaware’s are inquisitive and friendly, and generally low maintenance birds. They do tend to have tough moults though, and while most have mild dispositions, some can be a bit cranky.

Delawares are hardy birds that mature quickly. Hens are good layers of large to jumbo brown eggs and will go broody. Not the friendliest bird in the yard but a good layer.

 Ameraucana (sometimes mis-spelled Americana): AKA the Easter-Egger: This breed makes wonderful backyard chickens. They will thrive well either in confinement or free-ranging. They have a calm, non-aggressive disposition, and are very easy to handle. This is possibly the best bird for a family with kids.

The Wyandotte

is a docile, dual-purpose breed kept for their large brown eggs and for meat. Wyandotte hens are devoted mothers. The Wyandotte is a versatile chicken and can adapt to different temperatures. These chickens do fine on free range or in a fenced in yard. The hens will lay around 200 eggs a year. The Wyandotte is a hen that will need her vent checked regularly because of the thickness of her tail feathers she is prone to become clogged if not kept clean.

True Meat Breed: It's not the breed, it's the strain.

Jersey Giant-Weight: TEN POUNDS-a capon of course, would be even larger.

Big, sweet and a truly gentle giant, this ten pound bird is the least economical chicken out there. It is not a good enough layer, though it is a fair layer, to be worthwhile there and it simply eats too much to make it worth while on the dinner table. But, if you're looking for a sweet and loving bird that loves to be picked up and petted, this is the best bird for you. And even though they aren't great layers, the hens are robust and hardy, and quite willing to work steadily through the winter.

Brahma: Weight: 9 Pounds

The origins of the Brahma have been in dispute for more than 150 years. They were introduced in the 19th century to either London or New York and were probably imported from Shanghai, however it is also possible they came from China, India or some other East Indies port. They have also been called Chittagongs, Shanghais, and Brahmapootras. They are fair layers of brown, average sized eggs and very robust and cold hardy. They are very gentle birds which is good as their size could make them quite formidable.

Cochin: Weight: 8 1/2 lbs.

An uncommon chicken, this bird hails from China and shared a name with the Brahma, Shanghai. This breed launched interesting poultry shows as they resemble a large ball of fluff and feathers. Interestingly, the bantam version of this bird is known as a Pekin instead of a Bantam Cochin, though you can certainly find them for sale under the Bantam Cochin moniker. They lay a small, yellowy brown egg and are robust and cold hardy. They are calm, docile and easily handled.

Cornish Game: Weight: 8lbs.

These are the meat birds of the poultry industry and with a solid 8 lbs, it's not hard to see why. They were developed in Cornwall and are often breed with Plymouth Rocks to make the excellent birds we all love to eat. They are a poor layer of small eggs but cold hardy and early maturing. Easily contained, they are less active and more docile than most other game birds.

Orpington: Weight: 8 lbs.

A dual purpose bird, the Orpington is a bit small on the weight side but definitely not on the appearance side. The loose feathering makes the Orpington appear much larger (nearly two times) the size of some other hens and when they are brooding or aggressive they fluff out and appear even bigger. The Orpington is a good layer of above average sized eggs and hardy in all weather. Cold doesn't faze them so you can expect them to continue laying during the cold seasons!

Before the onset of the Cornish Cross broilers, the meat breeds were usually Delaware, New Hampshire, or White Rock. Chosen mainly because the light coloured feathers gave a prettier carcass plucked. You can see the dark pin feathers much easier than the light coloured ones.

But, these breeds were bred and maintained for maximum meat production. Unless you reinforce certain traits in each generation of chickens by selecting your breeders for these traits, you quickly lose those traits. Hatcheries do not select for those traits that give you good meat production. They are in the business of mass producing chickens for backyard flocks, not specialty meat birds. That's what the Cornish Cross is for. You are not going to find good dual-purpose meat birds from a hatchery. It is not a breed thing. It is purely the way they select their breeders.~~Al (Alex-Alexander) D. Girvan.

Emergency Preparedness, Response & Recovery,Face Book Posting.

Emergency Preparedness, Response & Recovery.

Are you prepared for an emergency? Make sure you’re as ready as you can be for an accident, environmental emergency or natural disaster. Click on MY WEBSITE--http://www.cookingforsurvival--yourdownbutnotout.com. AND SAVE YOURSELF A LOT OF MONEY; or Go to >

Prepared BC

Explore Within Emergency Management

Emergency Management BC is the Province's lead coordinating agency for all emergency management activities, including planning, training, testing and exercising, to help strengthen provincial preparedness. Quote:

Know the Risks

Ready or Not?

Prepare Your Home

Build an Emergency Kit

Neighbourhood Preparedness

Emergency Mommy

People with Additional Preparedness Needs

Response & Recovery

Travel Safe

Definitions You Should Know

Build an Emergency Kit

Creating a Home Emergency Kit Doesn't Need to Take Long. Just Follow the Basic List Below and Store Your Collected Supplies in an Easy to Access Location.

First-Aid kit

Battery-powered or hand-crank radio

Flashlight and extra batteries

Whistle to signal for help

Cellphone with charger

Cash in small bills

A local map with your family meeting place identified

Three-day supply of food and water

Garbage bags

Dust mask

Seasonal clothing and footwear

The Importance of Water

How Much is Enough?

The general rule is four litres of water per person per day, but there are a few caveats:

Children, nursing mothers and sick people may need more

If you live in a warm region of B.C., hot temperatures can double water needs

Pets need about 30 millilitres of water per kilogram of body weight per day. For example, an average-sized cat or small-sized dog needs at least 1/5 of a litre, or half a cup, daily

How and Where do I Store my Water?

It’s recommended (by those greedy person—those who are out to rob you blind) you purchase commercially-bottled water and keep it in its original container in an easily accessible, cool and dark place. Don’t open it until you need it.

Observe the expiration or “best before” dates. Set a reminder in your phone or remember to check the dates when the clocks “spring forward” and “fall back”.

What Hidden Water Sources are Available in my Home?

It’s easy to locate safe water sources in your home. These DO NOT include the water in your hot-water tank, pipes and ice cubes. It’s also recommended you don’t use water from toilet tanks or bowls, radiators, waterbeds, swimming pools or spas.

Can I Purify my own Water?

Yes! Most Definetly!

I and the Ministry of Health has information on the steps you can take to purify and bottle your own.

What About Water Filtration Devices?

These devices are becoming more and more popular, perhaps because they don’t take up as much room as several litres of bottled water. There are a lot of different options out there – different brands offer many different types, ranging from water bottle-sized to 18-litre containers or larger. If you choose to go this route, it’s still not a bad idea to store some bottled water as well. Grab-and-go—MAYBE!

Don't Ever Count on Being Home when there's an emergency. In addition to having one at home, create grab-and-go bags for your work and vehicles that contain:

Food (ready to eat) and water

Flashlight and batteries

AM/FM radio

Medications

Seasonal clothing

Blanket

Cell phone charger

Pen and notepad

Personal toiletries

Small First-Aid kit

Extra pair of glasses or contacts

Cash in small bills

Local map with your family meeting place identified

Whistle

December 30, 2015-B.C. feels a bump in the night — a 4.3 magnitude earthquake

There were no reports of damage or injury following the 11:39 p.m. jolt centred north of Victoria and felt across much of southern B.C. Tuesday night's 4.7-magnitude earthquake is just a hint of what could strike at any time. An earthquake struck near Sidney, British Columbia, according to Earthquakes Canada. It happened 19 kilometres northeast of Victoria, 58.7 kilometres below the earth’s surface, at 11:39 p.m. on Tuesday, December . it was the strongest tremor to shake B.C.'s south coast in years. Some thought a car had rammed their home. Others thought it was someone pounding on the door; or at 23:39 some actually claim they thought it was ”the neighbours moving furniture”.~~Al (Alex-Alexander) D Girvan.

If Indeed, Some Of You Still Require Such; More Proof That Something Desperately Needs To Be Done About Air Pollution.

Not so long ago, our ancestors, fathers mothers, uncles aunts knew an ELK

- on sight. They also knew that a Wapiti 

(found only in North America; mostly in Canada) was not an ELK. AND that an Elk did not, even remotely, resemble a mouse.

Mice are a large group of mammals, with more than 130 species found worldwide. In Alberta, there are 7 species of mice and 12 species of voles.

The most troublesome and economically important of the species found in Alberta are the house mouse

(which is not a native species), the white-footed mouse

and the meadow vole commonly called field mouse).

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Economic Losses to Mice.

There is no way of placing a monetary value on human suffering and damage caused by mice. The greatest loss is probably not what mice eat, but what is wasted and contaminated. In six months, one pair of mice can eat more than two kilograms (4 lbs.) of food and deposit about 18,000 droppings. Food contaminated by mice is about ten times greater than the amounts eaten. Food wasted by mouse nibbling is also much more than the amount eaten. So common are mice that it is no wonder their hairs and sometimes droppings, end up in all types of food commodities, from canned beans to loaves of bread.

Structural damage caused by rodents can be expensive. In recent years the trend toward use of insulated confinement facilities to raise swine and poultry, for instance, has led to increased rodent damage. Mice are very destructive to rigid foam, fibreglass batt, and other types of insulation in walls and attics of such structures.

Mice also gnaw wooden structures causing grain and feed to be wasted. They also undermine buildings by burrowing, which eventually causes structural failure and collapse.

Electrical wiring gnawed by mice causes many fires each year, listed as "cause unknown".

Public Health Impact.

Mice and their parasites are implicated in the transmission of a number of diseases including salmonellosis, rickettsia pox and most recently hantavirus. Bacterial food poisoning occurs when foods become contaminated with infected rodent droppings. Mice also carry many types of tapeworms and roundworms, infectious to pets and humans. Hantavirus pulmonary syndrome, which causes severe illness and even death in humans, is transmitted by several mouse species including the white-footed mouse.

To reduce the risk of contracting organisms transmitted by mice, you should practise these common sense precautions:

·         Eliminate mice from residential areas by removing food sources and access for mice.

·         Clean up mouse-contaminated areas by using wet methods, including disinfectants such as Chlorine Bleach.

·         Handle mice and other rodents with gloved hands.

·         Avoid sweeping and vacuuming when possible, and wear a dust mask to reduce exposure to fine dust particles.

·        Campers should avoid obviously infested areas. In high risk areas wear a high efficiency, particulate respirator.

·        Discourage children from playing with or trapping mice. Wild mice should not be kept as pets, or for "science projects".

·         De-worm household and farmyard pets regularly. ~~Al (Alex-Alexander) D. Girvan.

A Little Bit, About Ticks and Tick Removal

Deer Tick-Public Domain image

Camping and hiking are high-risk activities for encountering ticks, so remember to pack a straw and thread (or thin dental floss) next time you head into the woods(read why, toward end of this article.

Ticks-Latin Name (Common Name): Diseases they can transmit

Ixodes scapularis (deer tick or black legged tick): Lyme, babesiosis, anaplasmosis, Powassan encephalitis, tick paralysis, tularemia, Bartonella

Amblyomma americanum (lone star tick): Human monocytic ehrlichiosis, STARI, tularemia, tick paralysis, Rocky Mountain spotted fever (RMSF)

Dermacentor variabilis (American dog tick): RMSF, tularemia, human monocytic ehrlichiosis

Dermacentor andersoni (wood tick): RMSF, tularemia, Colorado tick fever, tick paralysis, Q fever

Ixodes pacificus (western black legged tick): Lyme, babesiosis, anaplasmosis, bartonella

Amblyomma maculatum (Gulf Coast tick): Rickettsia parkeri rickettsiosis

Do not EVER, ROTATE OR SQUEEZE the body of the tick.

Obviously, the following tick removal methods are NOT recommended:

1. Gripping the tick with thumb and forefinger and tugging at it. Doing so will cause the tick to regurgitate stomach contents—BAD NEWS.

2. Rotating the body of the tick, IN ANY WAY. Mouth parts have barbs which dig into flesh. Rotating the tick’s body, in any way will simply twist it off, leaving the mouth parts imbedded and YOU open to Lyme disease infection-BAD NEWS.

3. Burning the tick off with a match or cigarette lighter,

4. “Suffocating” the tick with petroleum jelly or hot oil

Avoid methods 3 &4 for the same reasons that you now avoid methods 1&2.

The safest rule as regards to how long it takes a tick to transmit a borreliosis to YOU is, ‘the sooner YOU remove the tick the greater the chance of preventing infection’. This is one reason why checking over your body carefully at the end of a long walk in the woods, then showering using a facecloth and back scrubber to scrub the body is usually sufficient to avoid infection even if the tick has already attached because ticks can be brushed off easily if not yet fully attached.

Even Better Than Tick Removal Is; AVOID Them.

Do Not Allow Ticks To Attach In The First Place.

Wearing long pants and sleeves, and walking with a friend who can keep an eye on your back means that you have time to see the tick and brush it off before it attaches. Keep switching positions of who is in back if walking single file. Look frequently for signs of ticks on you or your friend. If you find an attached tick, remove the tick as completely and as quickly as possible.

Ticks in the larval or nymphalid stage of development acquire the Lyme disease bacterium (Borrelia burgdorferi) by feeding on the blood of an infected host. Although we now know we not only have Borrelia burgdorferi in our ticks to cause borreliosis (Lyme disease) in humans, we also have other strains and species such as Borrelia miyamotoi, Borrelia hermsii, etch.

For example, with the recently discovered Borrelia miyamotoi, the mother tick can pass the infection to the egg which in turn can pass it to the larvae, on to the nymph and adult. Larvae hatch in the thousands so if you encounter these you may be at risk, and unfortunately they are not much bigger than the period at the end of this sentence making them very hard to detect.

One good thing is that, unlike mosquitoes (which can attach and begin feeding within seconds of landing on you) ticks take much more time to crawl to a suitable spot on your body, bite into your skin, secrete a ‘cement’ that secures them in place, and begin feeding/salivation.

Now though, we must revisit research done on Borrelia burgdorferi, to see if species/strains such as Borrelia miyamotoi follow the same rules now that we already know Borrelia miyamotoi broke the rule about mother tick not being able to pass the bacteria to their eggs. 

We have to revisit everything such as, does it take hours before the tick can transmit the disease to you, and if mosquitos can transmit it.  Mosquitos have been shown to carry Borrelia burgdorferi in their gut, but have not YET been shown to successfully transmit it but does that hold true for all Borrelia species/strains.

Safe tick removal methods

Method 1: If you already have a pair of fine pointed tweezers, and a steady hand, you can grasp The Mouthparts Of The Tick, NOT the body of the tick, and Slowly Pull The Tick Straight Out.

Remember that the skin may be swollen around the site of the tick attachment so if you’re not sure what you’re doing, you may prefer to use a specially designed tool. Method 2: Straw and Knot

The ‘straw and knot’ method is an elegant, easy, effective, low technology tick removal method.Place an ordinary drinking straw at a 45-degree angle over the tick. (The straw is simply being used as a guide to direct the knot).Take a length of thread (or dental floss) and tie a loose knot at the top or midsection of the straw.Slide your knot down the straw to where the tick is attached.Position the knot underneath the tick’s belly, so that the knot will encircle the Embedded Mouthparts Only.SLOWLY, tighten the knot to close snugly around the mouthparts of the tick.Remove the straw and pull the thread in a steady upward motion.

This WILLNOT ONLY cause the tick to detach, but Should Also Inhibit Regurgitation Of Bacteria That May Be In The Midgut.

Method 3: Intradermal Blister

If you’re close to a doctor’s office:

A doctor can inject Xylocaine into the skin below where the tick has attached.

A large Xylocaine-filled blister will form.

After tasting the Xylocaine, the tick should release its grip and back out on its own in order to search for a ‘better-tasting’ host.

Tick Treatment

After a tick has been removed, it’s important to wash the bite site using soap and water, followed with an antiseptic. Over-the-counter antiseptic medications are available at any pharmacy.

Don’t wait to develop symptoms. Go to your doctor and request antibiotics as a precaution.~~Al (Alex-Alexander) D Girvan.

Emergency/Survival Style, Trout rig Setups (Lure Rigging)

Although of course, the rigs I describe are used in recreational, sport fishing, and by the Week End Survivor. They will not always be available in a true Emergency/Survival situation; but having the right trout rigs; or at least knowing how to set one up can give you a big advantage-and possibly be enough to save your life. Many will argue that learning how to make trout rigs is not important and about what is the best type of setup is for being the most effective on the water. Here I am going to show you a couple of ways to setup relatively simple trout rigs that WILL ENABLE YOU to land fish and thereby secure a food supply.

First, Let’s Talk About Different Trout Rigs.

If you are going to be fishing in a lake, probably, the best way to setup a trout rig is by using floating bait and a sliding sinker.

This may sound and even look complicated, but I assure you it is not hard-this rig is very similar to the rig most commonly used in Steelhead fishing(a steelhead is after all simply a rainbow trout that has been, at least once, in salt water). Take your fishing like and slip it onto your sinker (you should get one that is shaped similar to an egg). Now, attach that to a barrel swivel. Take that small trout rig and attach it right to 4lb test line giving yourself about 15-28 inches in length. Make sure to use a lightweight egg shaped sinker, which should allow you to cast farther out giving you the best advantage over the fish. There you have it, the simple yet effective trout rig. Easy. Here are a couple of diagrams to show how to set up rigs for most any fresh water fishing.

The first and most common is to use a bobber, or float. You can use a traditional round plastic bobber or an in line (steel head) float. Both work and there isn’t any big advantage in using one over other. The only difference would be the fact that you can fill the in line float bobber with water which allows you to cast further giving you the most precise locations. After casting out, just sit and wait. Not much in the way of entertainment, you just wait for the fish to come and take the bait.

The second and my favourite method is to do the “dance” as some call it. Simply take your rig - fasten it to your line- and cast out. Allow your rig to sink down in the water-reel it in at a slow (not extremely) speed-as you reel in, move the rod from side to side and up and down-allow the jig to lose momentum after each pull. This appears to be more realistic to the fish, and usually yields fantastic results.

 Lure Rigging

If you plan to use a lure, then you have a couple of options. Lures are great for beginners because they rely a lot more on trial, and error, than anything else does. You simply cast out and make sure your lure does not sink too far down. If your lure snags; then, you need to first use lighter weights, and to reel in faster, preventing  it from settling right on the bottom. Lure fishing really is simple. Just tie up your lure, cast off and hope for the best.

Another trout rig is The Night Crawler Rig. It also is super simple, and highly effective. Go to your local store and pick up some bait holder hooks, size 6-10 short shank fishing hooks work best (of course in an emergency, use anything you have or that you are able to somehow fashion.

The recreational, sport or weekend survivor angler will want to pick up a worm inflator. A worm inflator is, essentially, a tool (like a hypodermic needle) that allows you to put a small amount of air into the worm. This allows you to cast it out and not have your bait come to sit on the bottom. This rig is one of my favourites for most any kind of-including trout- fishing and I always seem to do well with it. Attach your worm just under the skin and use your worm inflator as the instructions state (or, use a float and adjust the leader length.

Make sure, if possible (rancid fat, spoiling meat or fish, night crawlers or other worms that have been tightly bagged and left out in the sun for a spell) to in some way scent your bait. It will make a difference and you do not want to be casting out with your bait covered in human scent.

There are two general methods on how to use trout rigs. The first is to cast out past your desired location. Allow the bait to settle, and then slowly move it toward the quarry. The second method is a more traditional one. Cast out and allow the bait to sit in one spot. The idea here is that you want the trout to come and find the bait by using a more natural approach.

WHEN YOU SEE THE LINE START TO SHAKE, GET READY TO SET THE HOOK AND REEL IT IN!

Insider Tip:

A good rule of thumb when it comes to setting trout rigs is to move your lure slower when in colder waters and at a moderate speed at higher temperature. Of course, this is not always true but it should give you some good trout fishing guidance.

Final Thoughts:

– Adjusting the weight and setup of your trout rigs can determine at what speed and how fast your cast will go
– Learn the “dance” and become the envy of some of the most seasoned anglers.
-Remember that the temperature should control how fast or slow you should reel your rig.
-There is no one method that is better than all other methods; always, use a combination of rigs, and techniques, for the best results ©Al (Alex-Alexander) D. Girvan. All rights reserved.