Remember any dog is happiest if allowed to
live, and grow up, in his owner's home receiving needed love, and
companionship. Forcing a pet to live a solitary, outside life leads to boredom.
A bored dog is often a problem animal, prone to barking, chewing, or other
misdeeds.
No dog is biologically able to endure the
unsheltered cold of our winters except sheepdogs, St. Bernards, Chow Chows and
Siberian husky, and these do require shelter.
However, many dogs, except toy
breeds, young puppies, dogs with very short hair coats, and sick or old dogs
can adapt to outdoor living provided they receive necessary food, care, shelter
and attention.
If a dog is kept outside, special
considerations must be made
before purchasing or building a shelter based on
the animal's size. If the dog isn't kept in a fenced yard
-- the preferred
outdoor situation -- it should have a large run or kennel (at least 4-6' wide
and 8-12' long) as well as daily exercise with its owner. If
the animal is kept on a chain or similar device (never encouraged as it may
make the dog aggressive, but unfortunately in many Canadian, urban locations)
it should be at least 12' long, with swivel snaps on both ends to prevent
tangling and knotting. A dog should never wear a 'choke
chain' except during training. A proper restraint device for normal use would
be a suitably-sized leather or nylon collar or harness with its snap-ring and
buckle in good repair. Dogs should have a license, rabies tag and microchip at
all times.
Special precautions insure the
animal can't tangle its chain or rope around trees, posts and yard swings(most
dogs have enough intelligence to easily untangle a chain, unless you
have created a major obstacle course for them . Make sure the animal can't dig
under or climb over fences, fall from porches, stairways or elevated patios. Fire,
SPCA, and police departments respond to several such reports of hung and
hanging dogs each year.
The
shelter can be constructed from any of a wide variety of materials, such as
exterior plywood, wooden barrels, hay or straw bales, crates, etch. When
finished, the interior must allow the animal to sit, turn around and lay down.
The animal must be able to keep dry and warm on the inside and escape the
direct rays of the sun on the outside.
Remember,
the shelter is for sleeping and escaping weather extremes, not to live in. The
interior should provide a comfortable sleeping area protected from drafts.
Don't build it too large or it won't allow the dog's body heat to keep the air
surrounding him warm.
Historically, dogs roamed at will on the farm
and could find places to 'nest' at night or to rest where it was dry and warm
-- in stables, barns or sheds -- where sufficient bedding was available or the
dog could burrow in stored hay or straw. Modern dogs depend on their owners to
provide necessary and proper shelter.
Acclimate your pet to the outdoors
during mild weather so his coat and body adapt to seasonal temperature changes.
His coat will become thick enough to withstand even very cold temperatures
provided his shelter is dry and wind tight. It
is important for outdoor dogs to have a sufficient covering of flesh before and
during winter since muscle mass and fat covering provide body insulation. If a
dog shows signs of poor condition (such as lack of fleshiness over the hips,
ribs and backbone) increase its food intake. During winter,
the dog should be fed several small meals rather than one large meal. It needs
additional caloric intake (about 15% more food for each 20 degree F. drop in
temperature) and a bit more animal fat or vegetable oil to help convert energy
to body heat.
The
shelter opening should be just large enough to allow the dog to enter and exit
and should face away from prevailing winds. Shelters should be caulked and
raised off wet and frozen ground and be well-insulated. Bedding should be a
thick pad with washable cover, containing cedar chips or shredded newspaper.
Check bedding daily to be sure it is dry and clean as a dog's coat and feet
bring in moisture.
Check
on the dog's food and water frequently during the day to be sure they are not
frozen. Ice will slip out readily if you put a thin film of petroleum jelly
inside the water bucket each time you fill it. A hollow plastic bowl for water
won't crack if frozen.
Dogs
respond to cold by shivering and depressing their breathing. Hypothermia
(excessive cooling of the body's core) prevention requires adequate shelter,
protection against wetness or wind, good physical condition, and adequate food
and water. A healthy animal's hair coat, skin, underlying tissue and fat
protect against hypothermia.
Most
heat loss occurs through radiation, convection, and conduction of heat from
body surfaces. Conduction is the transfer of heat by direct contact. Convection
is the transfer of heat to the environment via air or water movement over the
body. Radiation is heat transfer which occurs if an animal goes into the cold
without an adequate hair coat or body condition.
Close
off empty spaces between the bottom of the doghouse floor and the ground or
concrete to prevent the wind from blowing under the shelter. In the worst
weather, a protected light bulb can supply additional warmth to the doghouse
interior.
Extremely
cold weather can lower an animal's resistance to disease and bring on ailments
like pneumonia and arthritis. Check the dog's feet frequently for build ups of snow, ice, salt and chemicals.
A
good temporary shelter can consist of a shipping crate, wooden or metal drum or
even a large cardboard box. The container should be placed on a solid piece of
wood set on bricks. Insulate the box or drum with an old blanket or quilt, then
encase the entire shelter in several thicknesses of sturdy garbage bags taped
or stapled to the structure. The temporary shelter should be replaced as soon
as possible with a suitable, permanent shelter.
The
best place for a doghouse or shelter is inside another building, such as a
garage or shed. The doghouse might be placed on the shady side of a home during
summer and on the sunny side during winter.~~Al (Alex-Alexander) D Girvan.
