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Monday, 17 December 2012

Elk;Versus Wapiti;Versus;The North American Moose Fable

Once again, it is shown that Americans; including but not exclusively; peoples from the United States of the Americas, have a great problem; when it comes to escaping tendencies toward fictation; or in identifying everything; or indeed-anything; including themselves; correctly, that is. AntelopeBannockBuffalo, Red Willow, Kinnikinnick; the name of the area in which they live.

Introducing an Elk, common throughout 
Europe and the National Animal of Norway.
© JB Olsen/R Sørensen/Samfoto-I do not believe he will object in this case.
Norway's national animal is the ELK, directly above. They are not related to the wapiti(below); which is NOT an elk; and the wild form of which exist only in North America.  
Known throughout Europe; the elk is the largest mammal in Norway. It can be found in considerable numbers in that country and other countries throughout Europe.They are browsers and live mainly on grass, bark and other plants.

The Wapiti above is found mostly in Canada and wild only in North America.  
The North  American Moose may well have been introduced into this country by the ancient Norse when they first discovered it during one of their Vikings.
©Al (Alex-Alexander)D. Girvan, All rights reserved.

Saturday, 15 December 2012

A Log Survival Cabin-and Everything You Need to Know About Survival Shelters

The building of a log shelter, of any size,will require a greater number of labour intensive, hours, than for which the average disaster/emergency survival exists. In any and all cases, anywhere in Canada; if you have no other shelter available; and, it is any later than mid September; the building of one is going to take more time than you have available--that is, before you freeze to death; or die of hypothermia.

What Is Hypothermia?
Used as a prefix, ‘hypo-’ means ‘under’ or ‘below normal’.  So hypothermia means below normal temperature.    
When you are awake, your body needs to maintain a core temperature of approximately 37oC (98.6oF).  This is sometimes referred to as ‘normothermia’, i.e. your normal temperature.   
Medically, hypothermia is defined as a body core temperature below 35oC (95oF).  This represents a 2oC (3.6oF) drop from normal body core temperature.  This allows for normal temperature fluctuations that occur through a 24 hour period, including temperature changes in your body while you sleep. 
In reality, however, if someone is awake, normally fit and healthy and has a body core temperature of 35oC (95oF) in a remote outdoors setting, they are likely to be in trouble already.  If they still have the energy they may well be shivering violently.  In the outdoors, you need to do something about a falling body core temperature before it gets to this stage.  We need to look for signs and symptoms of hypothermia in our companions.  Learning to recognise the signs and symptoms – and recognise them early – is very important--at any time--not just in disaster/survival situations. 

Really, more intended for PIONEERING bushcraft; or long term inhabitation than disaster/emergency survival; a log cabin is perhaps one of the most permanent shelters that can be constructed from natural materials. It requires a huge initial outlay in time, energy and resources but can provide an extremely useful and resistant long term shelter. It also has value (but, only when practised in a environmentally friendly, responsible manner) as a 'troop project' or for putting those pioneering/axe/saw skills into practise.


The first thing you will need to decide is the size of your log cabin. You can always add sections at a later stage but the main section should be designed with a size (and use) in mind. You will need to clear a suitably large area and flatten the ground, removing any rocks, undergrowth etc.  The shape is up to you, but I suggest you stick with the standard rectangle/square and a sensible size for a small cabin would be around 8-10 ft. square


The next thing you will need is a ready supply of logs. Please take care when constructing your cabin that you get permission to fell any trees or remove any logs. Obviously standard safety procedures should be undertaken if you intend to 'make your own'. The main body of the cabin is relatively simple to construct, simply arrange the logs in a square, the only complication being the joints at each end (you could simply lash the logs together and fill in any gaps, although I would not recommend this for any reasonable sized cabin).



As you can clearly see, in my model illustration, simply stacking the logs, one on another,would leave very wide open spaces between them. By the time you  got all of them all filled; you would, in reality, have a reinforced sod shelter. Like an Inuit iglu, the shelter could then keep you fairly warm, even in the coldest conditions; but, just one problem—you would be long dead.
The second model illustration, above, depicts true saddle notching and, requires, perhaps, debatable, a greater expenditure of time, and labour; but, it will allow you to achieve a very close fit; if you are truly willing, and able to spend your –most valuable possession-TIME that really, requires no chinking. The logs are notched only on the bottom side. Other methods are at least slightly, more complicated and are used to produce even stronger, and/or neater (urban civilised) looking, cabins.




The third illustration, shown above, illustrates what is, probably, best described as a Double Saddle Notch; for which is, almost, a necessity to have also available a broad axe; or at least a good draw knife-gives-rather can give-with a greater expenditure of labour and TIME-an even closer fit. 

To join the logs simply 'notch' at each end (although not at the very end). Be careful to leave a overhang each time and do not remove this overhang, it is what will give the cabin strength. In the illustrations the logs have been notched top and bottom, using a simple notch.If done properly, this method can produce a very tightly fit wall, with little, or no, need for any chinking (so can the saddle notching method).
One on the main tricks is the very start. For what will be the width of you cabin; do not notch the first two logs. This will lift up the two logs on what will become the length of the cabin, giving an opening of half a log and this is where you fit the beams for you flooring in. From then on it may take a little work but the logs can be made to fit tightly together (I do suggest putting a small amount of moss between, to act as insulation).

There are many other methods and variations of corner notching, some of which are shown above: for the first (top left of illustration), also a simple method-actually even simpler- 
When using the last shown method; the very end of each horizontal log is notched (using the interlocking dove tail design) and then fitted into the corner post. 
Logs, also, may be squared, on at least what is to be the bottom, and top, sides. The first log is notched half way through, on what will be the top side; while the other is notched half way through on what will be the bottom side. This, flattened, or squared, construction, keeps the logs level on all sides. The more advanced methods require a skilled craftsman; and are not usually used for short term, or survival type construction.

Simply stacking logs on top of each one another you will quickly run into problems. Because any natural log will have some 'taper' to it you will want to alternate their direction at each layer. Remember to leave space for a doorway too!, preferably on the side away from the prevailing wind. If you feel particularly ambitious construct a door frame from shorter sections. I would not bother trying any fancy 'doors' (at least at the early stages), a simple cloth covering to the door will suffice. You may also want to include windows, although for a typical ten foot square cabin, the door and chimney will give ample light and ventilation, and the increased effort in constructing a (safe) window is simply not worth it.

Unless you like sleeping in pools of water you will want a sloping roof to your cabin. As you near the required height you will need to build up the back of the cabin higher than the front. A simple lashed cross frame across the top will support your roof. Remember to notch your cross beams to fix them in place.

Now comes the waterproofing. Firstly you will want to fill in the gaps between the logs. The best way to do this is to mix up a 'paste' of mud, leaves, grass, moss, wood chips and caulk the gaps by firmly inserting your mixture. Try to force it right into the gap. For very large gaps you may want to fill the gap with a sapling, or branch, before, and after; caulking.

The roof is the final part of the structure. I would recommend a 'light' roof on a timber frame rather than a solid log roof (I don't think I could trust my construction to hold the weight safely!). Simply lay (lash) saplings down across the main cross beams and cover in the desired material. You could try for a thatch by weaving long grass in and out of the saplings, or you could go for the full tile method, bark is an ideal material for this, either way a layer of mud across the saplings/thatch will help to make the roof completely waterproof. These bark tiles could even be pegged down with small twigs while the mud underneath is still soft. If you wish to have a fire within the cabin you will need to leave a small hole for smoke to escape (although you must NEVER leave the fire unattended!). Those of you with far too much time on your hands may wish to make a full stone chimney.
Link:
To see other shelters: requiring fewer resources and lot less effort, valuable energy, effort, skill, and time to construct.©Al (Alex-Alexander) D. Girvan. All rights reserved

The Sod Survival Hut-Everything You Need to Know About

Though like log construction they are really, more intended for pioneer bushcraft; or long term inhabitation than disaster/emergency survival;There are some who claim that the sod hut is a forerunner of the all snow igloo; which to put it as mildly as I am able, is very highly unlikely. Firstly, sod huts are not are not brick or adobe, they are usually rectangular or square in shape and not being impervious to water, generally employ some kind of frame support. Unlike the all snow igloo, they are not free standing, dome shaped and do not employ arch or spiral construction.
Shelters
But, like, the debris shelter, or any other shelter made from mud,sod, turf or tundra can be a viable  alternative: in areas where either timber itself is scarce, or if you just don't happen to have your trailer load of fancy "survival" tools along to work with. 

Although there was usually no lack of available timber, early pioneers of Ukrainian decent; especially those who settled in the area of present day Mundare, Alberta, Canada used a lot of sod or clay construction. 

Fire- places do not have to be inside and fire reflectors may be used in conjunction with any type of shelter; notice the fire reflector in above illustration.

Sunday, 9 December 2012

WATER PROCUREMENT

Water is always one of your most urgent needs in a survival situation. You can't live long without it, especially in hot areas where you lose water rapidly through perspiration. Even in cold areas, you need a minimum of two quarts  of water each day to maintain efficiency.

More than three-fourths of your body is composed of fluids. Your body loses fluid as a result of heat, cold, stress, and exertion. To function effectively, you must replace the fluid your body loses. So one of your first goals is to obtain an adequate supply of water.


ABOVE-GROUND STILL

STILL CONSTRUCTION
You can use stills in various areas of the world. They draw moisture from the ground and from plant material. The flaws in this method--you need certain materials to build a still, and you need time to let it collect the water. It takes about twenty-four hours to get 0.5 to 1 quart of warer.

To make the above ground still, you need a sunny slope on which to place athe still, a clear plastic bag, green leafy vegetation, and a small rock.
To Make the Still

  • Fill the bag with air by turning the opening into the breeze or by "Scooping" air into the bag.
  • Fill the plastic bag half to three-quarters full of green leafy vegetation. Be sure to remove all hard sticks or sharp spines that might puncture the bag.
CATION: Do not use poisonous vegetation. It will provide poisonous liquid.

  • Place a small rock or similar item in the bag.
  • Close the bag and tie the mouth securely as close to the end of the bag as possible to keep the maximum amount of air space. If you have a piece of tubing, a small straw, or a hollow reed, insert one end in the mouth of the bag before you tie it securely. Then tie off or plug the tubing so that air will not escape. This tubing will allow you to drain out condensed water without untying the bag.
  • Place the bag, mouth downhill, on a slope in full sunlight. Position the mouth of the bag slightly higher than the low point in the bag.
  • Settle the bag in place so that the rock works itself into the low point in the bag.
To get condensed water from the still, loosen the tie around the bags mouth and tip the bag so that the water collected around the rock will drain out. Then retie the mouth securely and reposition the still to allow further condensation. Change the vegetation in the bag after extracting most of the water from it. This will ensure maximum output of water.

THE POUND, DOG-CATCHERS WAND



Is just another variation of the simple snare. it does have some uses; such as dragging an animal out of a beaver lodge, burrow, or den.

Thursday, 6 December 2012

The Two Items, Most Commonly Inadequately Considered, or Overlooked Entirely In Emergency Survival Kits--What Are They?

CLOTHING; and adequate, serviceable, warm, preferably waterproof FOOTWEAR. 

This is the reason that a woman (and many a man) may find it much harder to survive after: getting lost in a remote area, a natural disaster, or a terrorist attack.While women, in general, usually have an adequate CARRY ON THEIR PERSON survival kit; they will often overlook serviceability and warmth in favour of fashion. While many men may be just as guilty, to make matters worse; women, OFTEN, do not have any survival kit, at all; in their vehicles. For single women, even in their homes, serviceable warm footwear is very likely to be lacking.

Thursday, 22 November 2012

About Parachutes and Parachute Cord


I have worked and lived in, or near, most of the locations I mention in my next older posting-Subarctic Berries and Images Thereof. I have flown in most of the bush planes, passenger planes, and helicopters, commonly used in the Arctic at the time-1970s and 80s- even a Lear jet.I have flown over mountains, through narrow mountain passes; landed on steep mountain slopes, on the very top of mountains; on ice, snow, and water. Never during that whole time; no, not  even once, was the pilot or I ever equipped with a parachute; so the odds that you; unless you have purchased, and packed, one in your own Personal, Survival or Arctic Kit, having one available if, and when, you find yourself in an actual, survival, situation are very, very, remote indeed-it just is not going to happen-so forget about all your “cool” methods of building shelters and/or tents in which you employ the use of one.

Parachute Cord
Parachute cord (also known as Para-cord or 550 cord) is a light weight nylon rope originally used in the suspension of parachutes during World War 2 (it did not originate in the United States of the Americas). As documented in the original Survival Manuel used by British Empire Air Forces-Down but Not Out-aircrew found this cord to be very useful for many other tasks; consequently it is now used as a general purpose utility cord. Because it is fashioned from nylon which is elastic by nature, par-a-cord is also fairly elastic; but, just as nylon in  is is basically impervious to water, soaking parachute cord for 10-15-20 minutes, for several hours, or for several days, will not cause it to stretch more.




What makes it most useful and practical for use- even over and above the spools of prepared fishing line that I recommend including- in your survival is that the braided sheath has a high number of interwoven strands for its size. But, the all-nylon construction makes the cord elastic; depending on the application, this can be either an asset or a serious liability. parachute cord may be used in almost any situation where light cordage is needed and typical uses include attaching equipment to harnesses, building shelters, snares and traps.
Remember, however, that fashioning a gill net-long proven to be, by far, the most effective method of catching fish, under any conditions;bushcraft survival or otherwise-takes a lot of cordage; which is one of the main reasons why I still recommend including several spools of fishing line in  your larger survival kits. Effective as a gill net is, it is not always the best choice in a survival situation where your cordage supplies are going to be  limited, to say the least; the set-up I show below may be a much better one.

The cords core (commonly referred to as “guts” by North Americans) can also be removed when finer string is needed;  as is usually the case when used to fashion fish lines or nets, sewing or repairing gear. The nylon sheath may also be used alone the core threads removed, when less elastic ties are needed, such as when used as a boot or moccasin lace Ends of the cord must be melted together to prevent fraying. Hikers and other outdoor sports enthusiasts may want to fashion a Survival bracelet, arm band or even anklet; made of several feet of Para-cord; which is woven (usually using one of  the slight variations of the original, simple, one strand, Conquistador braid which is similar to knitting), into a compact and wearable form of jewellery that not only has many practical uses; but is undoubtedly, potentially far less dangerous to ones physical well-being than most of the other, senseless, absolutely useless, body art, and jewellery that people wear. 
Such bracelets are meant to be unravelled (just like the knitting of a sweater), whenever one needs rope, or cord, for whatever purpose.
Unfortunately, while some commercially available Para-cord is made to specifications, much of it, even when labelled as such; will be of inferior quality, and strength. Particularly poor quality examples may have significantly fewer, or no separate strands in the inner core (core constructed of bulk fibre rather than individual yarns or include materials other than nylon.
© Al (Alex, Alexander) D. Girvan-2012

Tuesday, 20 November 2012

Subarctic Berries and Images Thereof


I have observed that numerous of my readers are very concerned about some “Subarctic Berries” and images thereof that I have posted. For all of you that truly wish to learn something about survival-and about Arctic Survival per say; all, or most, of the berries, lichens, vegetables and even some of the trees that I mention and/or show as viable survival foods can be found and are often quite numerous above the Arctic Circle. the Arctic  is NOT just one huge block of ice- when compared with some locations much further south, there is very little snow fall and the plants are
NOT SUB ARCTIC. 

The Arctic Circle
The Arctic Circle is one of the five major circles of latitude that marks maps of the earth. Presently it is the parallel of latitude that runs approximately 66 degrees north of the equator. It is the southernmost latitude in the northern hemisphere at which the sun can remain continuously above(during which time all plants experience extremely quick growth); or below the horizon for 24 continuous hours (June solstice and December solstice respectively). Prudhoe Bay and Barrow Alaska, Inuvik, Tuktoyaktuk, Kugluktuk, Banks Island, Victoria Island Cambridge Bay, Gjoa Haven, Resolute, Repulse Bay, Igloolik, Baffin Island, Alert, Elsmere, Claude River are all north of the Arctic Circle (Arctic  map: http://www.athropolis.com/map2.htm). Just to the south is the Northern Temperate Zone.

The Dempster Highway
The Dempster Highway is the most northerly public highway in Canada taking you 734 kilometres from the gold fields of Dawson City to the Arctic Ocean. The Dempster Highway is the only public highway in the Western Hemisphere that actually allows you to cross the Arctic Circle in a car.

Monday, 5 November 2012

Superstorm, Hurricane Sandy Should Serve As A Wakeup Call And Warning To Many “Bushcraft/Survival” Experts; Also To Those Students Who Were Planning For Their Next Survival "Adventure".


 DO YOU REALLY WISH TO BE NUMBERED AMONG THE SURVIVORS?

DO YOU REALLY WANT TO SURVIVE A MAJOR DISASTER? THEN GET REAL. GO BACK TO THE WAYS OF YOUR GREAT GRANDPARENTS.


THEN HOME CANNING IS NOT A WASTE OF TIME.
MANY OF THE MODERN “BUSHCRAFT/SURVIVAL COURSES AND THE MACHO GAMES ARE.
FOR MOST OF US, SURVIVAL WILL BE VERY SERIOUS STUFF-A MATER OF LIFE OR DEATH. SURVIVAL WILL NOT, EVER, BE A MILITARY EXERCISE, OR  VIDEO GAME OR REALITY ADVENTURE TV SOAP OPERA.

The methods and skills as used by your grandfather, grandmother, and great grandparents, in helping to ensure their everyday survival are still the very best bet, if you wish to survive a major disaster in today's modern  technically advanced but none too health or survival savvy world. 
Major disasters still happen and will continue to happen, on an ever increasing scale, somewhere in the world. Are you, if one hit your neighbourhood, next month, next week, tomorrow, in the very next minute?
As is true of any disaster, when an earthquake  flood, forest fire, hurricane, landslide/mudslide, tornado etch strikes, many of the necessities of life are suddenly-instantly gone. Electricity is almost always the first to go—natural gas the first to be turned off for safety reasons, if the lines didn't already break. Water lines break and those that don't may soon be filled with water that is not safe to drink. Streets are suddenly not passable or at least not safe for vehicles. Vehicles are trapped by garage doors that can’t open. If your vehicle is assessable and you can or dare venture out, the streetlights and traffic signals won't be working—there will be general panic-- leaving you in great danger at every intersection. When, and if, you do reach a store, they can only accept cash (modern cash registers run only on electricity). You dare not start driving any distance, since you will not be able to get gas-the pumps run on electricity. Your home will get colder and colder, because there isn't any heat and of course, there will be no light.
YOUR FROZEN AND/OR REFRIGERATED FOODS WILL ALL BEGIN TO SPOIL; YOUR CANNED OR OTHERWISE PRESERVED PRODUCTS WILL NOT. ALSO ALWAYS REMEMBER,THAT WHILE DRIED PACKAGED FOODS DO OFFER MANY ADVANTAGES IN A SURVIVAL SITUATION; THEY ALSO PRESENT ONE SERIOUS PROBLEM IN THAT THEY REQUIRE THE ADDITION OF LIQUID (WATER) EITHER WHEN COOKING OR WHEN EATING--IF YOU ARE ALREADY LIVING ON SHORT WATER RATION, THEY WILL CAUSE FURTHER DEHYDRATION.
None of this is easy to cope with, especially if you are unprepared but you'll still want to SURVIVE and survive with as few ill effects and as little inconvenience as possible. For the long term effects, you need to prepare like you would if you were leaving home to explore, or pioneer a new and remote area far from the conveniences, amenities support systems, and supply lines you are used to relying on. For the short-term effects, you need to think:
FIRST AID—WHAT IS NEEDED? WHAT IS NEEDED FIRST?

Hurricane Sandy May Turn the Tide on Climate Change
“Our climate is changing,” writes Mayor Bloomberg. “And while the increase in extreme weather we have experienced in New York City and around the world may or may not be the result of it, the risk that it might be — given this week’s devastation — should compel all elected leaders to take immediate action.”
Though New York and New Jersey bore the brunt of Sandy’s destruction, at its peak, the storm reached 1,000 miles across, killed more than 100 people in 10 states, knocked out power to 8.5 million homes and businesses and cancelled nearly 20,000 flights. Damage has been estimated $50 billion, making Sandy the second most expensive storm in U.S. history, behind Hurricane Katrina.
Sandy killed 69 people in the Caribbean before turning north and hammering the U.S. Eastern Seaboard on Monday with 80 mile-per-hour (130-kph) winds and a record surge of seawater that swallowed Oceanside communities in New Jersey and New York, and flooded streets and subway tunnels in New York City.
Hurricane Sandy housing crisis: Superstorm displaces 40,000 New Yorkers
“People are in homes that are uninhabitable,” New York Governor Andrew Cuomo said alongside Bloomberg at a news conference. “People don’t like to leave their home, but the reality is going to be in the temperature
© Al (Alex Alexander)D Girvan 2012, All rights reserved

Sunday, 9 September 2012

BRAISED WILD GOOSE


1 wild goose (any type)
juice of 1 lemon
6 cups stuffing (optional)-see my stuffing recipes: http://thegirvan.blogspot.com/2009/12/stuffing-recipes-for-fish-meat-poultry.html
2 Tbsp. butter
salt and pepper to taste
2 cups stock, if available, water, or fruit juice



  • Prepare the goose. Brush the cavity with lemon juice. Insert stuffing if used (and remember, you can have stuffing without putting it in the bird) and sew up the cavity. Melt butter and shake in as much salt and pepper as desired Brush the mixture over the outside of the goose.
  • Pour 2 cups stock, water, or fruit juice into the bottom of a braising pan or casserole. Arrange the goose on a rack in the pan-preferably use a miropox to raise the bird slightly off the bottom of the pan. Goose flesh sticks easily to the pan and the bird will be  hard to lift, if not on a rack of some sort.
  • Bake uncovered in a 400F oven until light brown. Then turn the heat down to 325F-cover, and  continue to braise  until tender-usually about 20 minutes per pound. If the goose is very fat (wild goose usually is not), pierce the flesh with a fork or skewer to release some of the fat.. If the bird is old and tough, allow extra cooking time Even though you are using the braising method, baste frequently with the drippings. Wild birds are generally not as fat as the domestic type and may still dry out during the braising process.

Mallard Duck

Mallard Duck
            Braising is the best method of preparing these, very dry, grain fed ducks.
            1. Dress the birds and stuff with a bread dressing.
            2. Truss and place in a covered braising pan.
            3. Add water to the depth of 1 inch, a slice of onion and a small amount of thyme.
            4. Cover the pan and cook in a slow oven, (325 F) about 1 hour.
5. Remove cover so the bird will brown and cook another 30 minutes. Use only enough water to prevent burning.
6. After removing ducks from pan, add water and make gravy to pour over ducks. Allow 1 pound per person.

Tuesday, 14 August 2012

So What’s The Best Survival/Bushcraft Knife: to Own, and to Use?

"Your key ring compass is trained on north; north is where you know a highway stretches across the horizon; the highway is where you know you'll finally have the chance to be saved. It's been days since the accident that sent you sliding into the rapids and tumbling over a waterfall. Body bruised, arm broken, head concussed, it was hours before you woke up dazed and vomiting on the bank of the river.
You lost your main pack in the fall, phone, tent, sleeping bag, spare clothes, hiking boots, food, gone. All you have left is your personal,disaster, emergency, survival kit; and your survival knife-- thank goodness for that. Without it, you'd be dead. And over the past several days, one item in particular has endeared itself to you time and time again: the survival knife.

You figure you're still a day or two away from civilization, and as evening approaches, the temperature is falling fast. You start making camp, using your survival knife to cut the large amount of wood you'll need to fuel your fire throughout the frigid night. But suddenly, the blade snaps off at the handle and flies back over your shoulder. Shaking over the thought that you could have just lost an eye, you think back to when you stood in the camping supplies store to stock up on equipment and surveyed the vast array of knife choices. Did you buy a dud? Will your “Survival Knife” increase or decrease your chances of actual survival."

So What’s The Best Survival/Bushcraft Knife and tool: to Own, and to Use?

There are many who will immediately answer, without any hesitation what so ever; a hatchet or at least a knife heavy and rugged enough to be used to chop, dig, build fires, serve as a hunting weapon, split wood, build shelters; be used as a sledge hammer, make-shift screwdriver, a crow-bar or prying tool, and for signalling.
There in lies the major problem when it comes to selecting a "Survival Knife". Knives should not be used for chopping, digging,  or splitting wood; cleavers, hatchets,and shovels are designed for such purposes. if you do not have such items; digging sticks, and/or fairly sharply edged rocks may be improvised. 
A survival knife is: any knife you actually have with you  in a real life-not an adventure or game-survival situation. 
Likewise, the "BEST"SURVIVAL KNIFE is the one you are carrying-ON YOUR PERSON
Therefore, you do not want it too big .
 DO NOT ABUSE IT BY HAMMERING ON IT; OR USING IT IN CONJUNCTION WITH A BATON. TREAT ALL YOUR AVAILABLE SURVIVAL TOOLS WITH RESPECT, YOU JUST COULD NEED THEM FOR A CONSIDERABLE PERIOD OF TIME.
Back in the days when most everyone actually had to rely on their hand tools for every day survival; prior to the late 19th century, outdoors men and even military personnel did not use knives that were notably different from the knives used by cooks or butchers. Blades were always relatively thin and in order to resist slipping and facilitate replacement in event of breakage; the handles were often no more than two bone or wooden slabs riveted to the full tang.


 So What’s The Best Knife to Own and Use in the Field?
Before deciding, be  sure to watch all of the linked videos; all are done by a master who not only really knows what he is doing but he shows enough that after fifteen; to twenty years, of diligent practice; you may be able to do it half so well. I think he will convince you that not only are big, heavy, cumbersome, knifes not necessary in a survival situation; they can be a major detriment. 

How to muscle bone a side of beef or any big game animal: video 1 -video 2-video 3-video 4-video 5. 

Perhaps, just perhaps, a pocket knife, a  second world war type commando knife, OR SOMETHING LIKE THE BONING KNIFE PICTURED BELOW ARE ALL YOU REALLY NEED. The blade of a boning knife is somewhat stiffer than a filleting knife meaning that slightly better technique is required when it is used for filleting; but, it will serve the purpose and it will better serve the purposes of aiding in repairing gear, cutting slits, thongs, etch, even in cutting tinder to start a fire.




That of course, depends on just what field we're talking about. Are we talking about “REAL WORLD- DISASTER SURVIVAL”, or are we talking about the “FIELD” on which we are playing out the latest episode of our “REALITY” survival/adventure excursion? Perhaps you just wish to "TIP-TOE THROUGH THE TULIPS?
OR, ARE YOU DRESSED IN A CAMOUFLAGE, MEXICAN BANDITO, PIRATES OF THE CARIBBEAN, OR  NINJA SUIT; PLANNING ON DASHING OFF THROUGH THE BACKWOODS, ON A BASH, SLASH, SHOOT, AND SMASH ADVENTURE? DO YOU PLAN ON SHOOTING OR KILLING ANYTHING AND EVERYTHING THAT DARES TO MOVE—CHOPPING DOWN EVERYTHING THAT LOOKS GREEN?

 I F YOU ARE, GO BIG—GET SOMETHING THAT WILL REALLY DRIVE HOME, TOO ALL YOUR SPECTATORS, JUST HOW MUCH OF A BIG, TOUGH, MACHO SURVIVOR TYPE YOU REALLY ARE,—AND DON’T STOP AT JUST ONE. YOU WILL NEED SEVERAL—START WITH THREE OR FOUR CROCODILE DUNDEE/RAMBO TYPE BOWIE KNIVES, AND THEN ADD A FEW OTHER “REAL KNIVES”. THE TYPE THAT ARE PART BATTLE AXE, LUMBERMAN’S PIKE—AND A FEW THAT ARE COMBINATION KNIFE/THROWING STAR, LASER GUN SIGHT. ADD A FEW MORE FROM PAST EPISODES OF STAR TREK OR STAR WARS; DON’T FORGET A FEW MACHETES YOU WILL WANT TO MAKE SURE THAT YOU HAVE ENOUGH SCRAP IRON TO REALLY WEIGH YOUR PANTS DOWN AND MAKE AN IMPRESSION.

Or maybe, you just want to do a few “crafts”; build some model cars, build SOME SHIPS IN A BOTTLE—OR SOME SURVIVAL TOOLS THAT YOU CAN DISPLAY PROUDLY--IN YOUR TROPHY CASE. In this case, you will need at least one “Swiss Army Knife (more awkward and bigger the better—with all the gadgets), a “Leather- Man” knife, and a Victorinox Swiss Tool—you might need a “Cork Screw” to open up your bottles of wine.
Heading out, on an excursion, into the "Boonies" is not participating in CANADA'S national game of SURVIVAL it is; just playing.
Or, if you’re just planning to survive (live) in a remote inhospitable area, say, after a plane crash, earthquake, flood, hurricane  mud/rock slide, tornado, or just getting off the beaten trail and losing your way; perhaps all you need is a good pocket knife and a “British Army”(strange how British or Canadian keeps popping up, do you suppose there is a "good" reason?), double edged, Commando Knife (first or second world war vintage; or even simpler and, perhaps, more obtainable and practical; a commercial quality “Muscle Boning/Filleting Knife (such as the one shown above).
Think, How Will You Be Most Using Your Knife/Knives—In What Manner?
·        Will you be using it to scrape the sap layer (a soft tissue lying between the wood and outer bark of aspen, birch, pine, spruce, willow and most other woods), that is very nourishing when eaten raw, cut into strips and cooked like noodles, or in soups or stew?

·        Will you be using it to butcher, dress, muscle bone, and prepare fish, game, or meat for cooking, drying, preserving, or transportation?
     Might you use it to cut lacing from animal hides?
     Might you on occasion use your knife as an awl; to puncture or cut slits in materials to facilitate using such lacing?
·        Might you be using it to carve out cooking and eating utensils?

·        Will you be using it to carve out "digging sticks?

·        Perhaps, you will be constructing snares and/or other traps and will need to cut precision triggers?

·        Will you be using it to clean, peel, dice, cube, chunk, slice vegetables?

·        Might you use it to cut kindling, shave tinder?
·        Might you have to use it in first aid? 

·        The list goes on and on; but few-- if any-- of these uses call for an awkwardly large, heavy, or even exceptionally rugged knife (a knife best designed for use in a survival situation is NOT intended to be used as a weapon--survival of this type is NOT A MILITARY OPERATION--it is about LIFE). They do—all call for a knife that is sharp (is easily sharpened and maintained), has a narrow, possibly somewhat flexible blade, a handle that fits the hand (slip resistant), and that is: CONVENIENT TO CARRY AND CONVNIENT TO USE.

·        It would be very, very difficult indeed to do muscle boning or filleting with a big, heavy, or awkward knife.


Bushcraft Knifes vs. Camping/Survival Game Knifes
Choosing a bushcraft knife is highly personal for most of us. In a way, isn’t the knife we carry an ultimate extension of who we are, as much as what car we drive or what brand of tools we own? However it’s important to carefully consider what jobs you’ll need your knife for, and for this all knives are not created equal. For outdoorsman who rely heavily on their knives as all-purpose tools, there are two general, and very overlapping categories: bushcraft knives and camping or survival knives.
The distinction between these two categories is rather vague, but generally we can say a bushcraft knife has a thinner blade than a camping knife, although again, many people will use these terms interchangeably, and it’s not an industry standard by any means. But in most bushcrafters minds, there is a difference so we’ll go with that.
A bushcraft knife is generally suited for light and medium duties, such as skinning game, general food preparation, carving wood, making pointed sticks for cooking over the fire, making feather sticks, shaving tinder and so on. You can choose these in either fixed blade or a folder, and we’ll go over these choices in more detail shortly.
To weekend survivors or those claim to live the “survivor life style” a survival or camping knife is usually considered to have a heavier, thicker blade than a bushcraft knife. This thick, strong blade will be less likely to break or get dull under severe use, but it also won’t be as sharp or as suitable for fine or more intricate work. It’ll not be as suitable for carving, skinning game or other work that would require a thinner, sharp more precise tool.
Camping/Survival Game knives are well suited for batoning wood, chopping through  branches, prepping material to make a shelter, splitting wood for the fire, prying, opening stubborn food packages you know, all the jobs that are much better done using an axe or that may not be necessary to do at all.
Really, Important Features.
Blades
Bushcraft knives are generally about 4 to 8 inches long, which is a good compromise between size and dexterity. As we talked about, you’ll want one of these knives for finer work so a small or medium sized blade allows you to do finer work than a large blade. A survival or camp knife, on the other hand, ranges from 8 to up to 12 or more inches. These knives often are used for chopping, hacking, slashing, as weapons for self-defence and as points for hunting weapons. The durability and leverage provided by a larger blade is ideal. Having said that, I still refrain from anything larger than 8 inches, but again this is a personal preference and is partially determined by your environment.. I use a knife to do the jobs a knife is intended to do.
Blade materials are another consideration. There are many, many, types of alloys, which would require a whole article in itself. Sticking with quality manufacturers in most cases ensures you’ll get a quality alloy. Most often you’ll have to choose between stainless steel for your blade, or carbon steel. As a rule of thumb, carbon steel is harder than stainless steel and will stay sharp longer. Most guys prefer carbon steel for this reason, as having to resharpen your blades in the outdoors, or in the middle of cleaning your game, is rather inconvenient to say the least. The downside is once carbon steel is dull, it’s more difficult to resharpen. Stainless steel also tends to cost more, because it’s more complicated to manufacture than other types of steel. One warning, some people believe stainless steel is impervious to rust. This is not true, so caring for your knife properly is important regardless of the material.
One last thing we need to know about blades is the grind. This is the shape of the sharp edge. The two most common are the Scandinavian grind or scandi grind, and the Flat grind. The scandi grind is used on thinner blades that require a very sharp, keen edge, where the flat grind is usually found on thicker blades. The flat grind will not dull quite as fast, but the tradeoff is it’s not as sharp, but only mildly so. Neither are too difficult to resharpen.
Knife Handles and Tang
The Tang is the part of the blade that sticks into the handle. This is where the handle attaches to the blade. This is one area where you should not compromise because it greatly affects the strength and durability of your knife. Look for what is called a Full Tang. The blade and tang are one solid piece of steel. A full tang is the same size as the handles, and the handle is often (but not always) visible around the edge of the handle, and the handle is two pieces sandwiched around the tang. Some knives have a hidden full tang, so it’s not as apparent, but always check the specs or ask if you’re not sure. TIP: Stay FAR away from those “survival knives” with the hollow handle full of unneeded, useless tools(many manufacturers also make multi tools, Gerber and Leatherman being two very popular brands-they usually have screw drivers, pliers, knife blades, files, and just about anything else you can think of-they really are amazingly versitle). This greatly compromises strength and usability; while they may be handy in an indoor workshop, they are not really suitable for any serious outdoor work.
As far as handles go for your bushcraft knife, you’ll want one that fits comfortably in your hand and offers a grip that will not be slippery, especially when wet. There are many blades out there that get style points with a fancy, designer handle. They look awesome, but in the back country, your outdoors knife needs function over form first and foremost. Micarta is a popular choice, as is stag bone, but they are not the only choices. Your knives will get greasy and wet, and the last thing you want is you hand slipping down onto the cutting edge, or that blade flying right out of your hands!
Other Bushcraft Knife Considerations and Tips
Fixed blade or folder?
Fixed blades will be more durable and easier to keep clean, than a folding knife, in most cases, but a folder is more convenient to carry. My own personal choice is to carry a folding knife. In fact, when in the arctic, I always preferred to carry two knives, so I could better cover all types of jobs. My opinion is that one knife won’t quite do it all.


© Al (Alex, Alexander) D Girvan-2012. All rights reserved